The heat could have been from the sun or the brakes?

Might try a fine polishing compound on a window in a small area and see if it works. Should take care of anything on the surface. If the plastic (plexiglas ?) it's self is discolored, replacement is in order. Most likely a DIY job. Remove a window and take it to someplace like Tap Plastic as a template and they'll cut you new ones. Or you can do that part yourself as well.

 

try toothpaste

 

I used the tooth paste (reg. crest) and it worked great. For those of you that have fishing rods with cork handles tooth paste will make them look brand new as well

 

Haven't experienced any overheating on my oil hubs.
As for your boat top there is a recent thread about restoring vinyl windows on page 2 you might want to look at.

 

Good to know! Thanks!

Hubs - I am thinking maybe it was the heat we had that got them hot...I am over analyzing as we have a trip planned for Brownlee in 30 days...I don't want any problems haha.

 

Good to know! Thanks!

Hubs - I am thinking maybe it was the heat we had that got them hot...I am over analyzing as we have a trip planned for Brownlee in 30 days...I don't want any problems haha.

Hot to the touch not super hot. Could you keep your hand there, or not? If you can keep your hand there, it's under 140F. That's not really very hot for oil. I wouldn't worry about it. If it's hot like it burns you and water boils when you flick a couple drops at it, you have a problem. I'd jack up the axle spin it, figure where all that friction is coming from and fix it.

If you roll with everything you need to do a bearing swap on the side of the road, they will never fail. Just don't forget that trailer bearing kit, even once, because it will die at that moment. Get a set of bearings, a puller and the rest of the tools you need to do the job, put em in a bag, bring it along.

 

Try lemon pledge before you put a bunch of effort into anything else.

 

sounds like brakes are hanging up if more than one wheel is getting hot all of sudden. Also a heat gun from harbor freight will give a better idea of heat build up on bearings,,,gregg

 

Couple questions -

For those with oil bath hubs, do your hubs still get hot when towing long distance? Towed the boat from Reedsport to Tigard and they were hot to the touch...The window shows 1/2-3/4 full for oil which from my understanding is where you want it to be...I don't recall my normal grease packed hubs getting hot when they were working properly...

Plastic windows - I really just need a whole new top, but I am trying to work with what I have. Anyone have a favorite cleaner for the windows...maybe to make them come back to life (Clear-ish).

Thanks!

The hubs on all the wheels or just one or two? If the bearing pre-load isn't correct they may need adjusted.

For the windows:

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Both were the same temp which made me think it was just the heat from outside...I could leave my hand there a couple seconds...Hot as metal would get laying out in the sun...

Might take it in to schwabs to double check...I don't have great luck with bearings on boat trailers lol. One time one side was over packed/tightened which caused it to fail...Always something...

 

I keep one of those infrared temperature guns in my glove box and check them periodically, if they are all close to the same temp I feel pretty good.

 

I doubt Schwab will work on oil bath hubs, the ones near me don't. In fact, it seems not many places do.
Mine still run cool after 5+ years, however on my tandem axle trailer the brakes will often heat the wheel and hub assembly. The axel without brakes stays much cooler.

 

Expect hubs to run 50 deg over ambient. More if you're braking a lot.

 

Typically, the oil level should almost reach the centre of the lowest rolling element when the bearing is stationary. Oil bath lubrication is particularly suitable for low speeds. At high speeds, however, too much oil is supplied to the bearings, increasing friction and causing the operating temperature to rise.

I just checked mine because they were a little warm the last couple times and they are all at 3/4 full. That is to much oil and I think I'm going to drain them and put new oil in to about 1/3 full.

 

Typically, the oil level should almost reach the centre of the lowest rolling element when the bearing is stationary. Oil bath lubrication is particularly suitable for low speeds. At high speeds, however, too much oil is supplied to the bearings, increasing friction and causing the operating temperature to rise.

Can you explain why I regularly see them on large freight trailers. Those guys haul axx on Hwy 84 in Idaho where the limit is 70+.

 

My oil bath hubs don’t get hot at all on long trips. The last few trips they have been cool to the touch. But the outside air temp has been under 70.

 

I have Vault oil-bath hubs (although they use a fairly viscous lubricant) on my Guardian trailer under my Rogue Jet Boatworks 21' Coastal. Was a bit concerned at 8 years old about how much they may heat up between Brookings and Centralia a few weeks ago. Cool as could be on the trip up and return trip. Pretty much sold on them.

 

Couple questions -

For those with oil bath hubs, do your hubs still get hot when towing long distance? Towed the boat from Reedsport to Tigard and they were hot to the touch...The window shows 1/2-3/4 full for oil which from my understanding is where you want it to be...I don't recall my normal grease packed hubs getting hot when they were working properly...

My hubs in the summer will be warm to the touch. If a lot of breaking is involved they will heat up. Front are always warmer than the rears. Back and forth to Montana during the summer and the hubs will float between 110 - 125 or so degrees. I carry one of those infrared heat guns when going long distances.

 

Thanks all for the replies...I purchased a heat gun which should be here today...The hubs are at 3/4 full which sounds like is too full...Not the best pic...keep in mind the trailer is at a slight angle.

I re-read the invoice..."Checked bearings, no wear or play at this time. Changed out hub oil as requested"

With everything that is happened so far, I am not sure I trust them lol.

 

I have not ever had a problem running oil bath hubs.
If you have the older models made out of plastic, I recommend replacing them with the newer model metal housing.

 

My hub was heating up. Brakes.

 

As in normal use of brakes or brake failure? They went and replaced the whole brake system a couple years back...I had them also make sure all fluids are good.

 

Couple questions -

For those with oil bath hubs, do your hubs still get hot when towing long distance? Towed the boat from Reedsport to Tigard and they were hot to the touch...The window shows 1/2-3/4 full for oil which from my understanding is where you want it to be...I don't recall my normal grease packed hubs getting hot when they were working properly...

Plastic windows - I really just need a whole new top, but I am trying to work with what I have. Anyone have a favorite cleaner for the windows...maybe to make them come back to life (Clear-ish).

Thanks!

Would love to see pics of the project! The boat and trailer that is.

 

I run oil hubs and check them on the pull. Typically on a coastal day with temps in the mid 60s the hubs will be around 90 to 100 degrees, barely warm to the touch. I also run only 100% synthetic oil changed every year filled to 50%.

 

I plan to pull it to Meldrum on Sunday...i'll check the temp then...if it's bad, i'll take it on over to 99 west trailers that Pearl mentioned above...

 

This should answer your questions:

The VAULT Hybrid Lubrication System

The VAULT “Hybrid Lubrication System” uses a semi-fluid oil in a pressurized chamber to give you the ultimate in wheel bearing lubrication and protection. At ambient temperatures, the oil is thick with a viscosity approaching grease. As the bearing temperature rises during towing, the VAULT’s...

pacifictrailers.com

 

Brake failure. The caliper locked. Not unheard of at all according to shop fixing it. If your hubs are heating up I'd look at your rotor and pads very closely (assuming the axle has brakes of course). Mine had brake dust all over the wheel. Of course it happened enroute and cost a day of fishing.

 

I am thinking that the heat was from the surge brakes...it's my understanding that they activate with changes in speed and downhill, so they work more often then that of an electric brake. I spoke with a nice fellow at 99 west yesterday and he said I should be fine based on what I was explaining haha...for some reason he recommended changing oil bath to regular greased hubs....first I have ever heard of someone making that comment. He also mentioned that he would not be concerned that the hubs are 3/4 full...

I have the heat gun and will test it Sunday...

 

Couple questions -

For those with oil bath hubs, do your hubs still get hot when towing long distance? Towed the boat from Reedsport to Tigard and they were hot to the touch...The window shows 1/2-3/4 full for oil which from my understanding is where you want it to be...I don't recall my normal grease packed hubs getting hot when they were working properly...

Plastic windows - I really just need a whole new top, but I am trying to work with what I have. Anyone have a favorite cleaner for the windows...maybe to make them come back to life (Clear-ish).

Thanks!

There isn’t any product better than ”Lemon Pledge” to use on Isinglass. It will remove light scratches and clears the haze that, overtime the sun can cause.

 

Towed the boat to Meldrum Bar today...checked the temp there and back...both times the hubs were 91-93.

 

When new, the amber glass is translucent, not clear. I carry spares (and 90 weight oil) in case some clown with a hammer walks through the parking lot.