[Joe Evens]

Water weight?

Harvey dories often leak into the area between the hull and the inside wall. This will build up an immense amount of weight as the foam becomes waterlogged. With no exit point, the water will stay until it rots the side panels from the inside.

My boat was originally an I/O. The area under the rear deck, at the top of the side panel, was very poorly sealed. Wide open, in fact. That area is protected from rain, but will hold water from surf and chop and wind blown rain.

When I found that, I was confident that I had found the source of what seemed like a never ending supply of water in the foam.. It was not the main reason and the mystery continued for another 15 yrs.

I ended up drilling four 3/8'' holes near the bottom of the wall to let it drain.

When I was doing the exterior restoration a couple years ago, I finally found the cause.

The trays on the early ones set on the inside of the first strake and the sidewall, and are drained via vertical holes drilled thru the bottom of the tray and the strake, exiting sown the outside.

The problem was that there was a very small gap between the hull and the tray in 3 or four drain holes.

I am adding this to the archive on the likelihood that another early boat has the same problem.

Seriously, anyone who has not checked for water in the walls recently. should do so. Just drill the holes, and reseal with 5200

I have seen wet walls in both early and later boats, but am not very familiar with the later ones. The later boats were built differently and have differing vulnerabilities.

Perhaps someone could enlighten us.

 

[sss5358]

Having a hard time deciding what color to paint my 22 ft Bay model Harvey Dory. Present color is orange but very oxidized from many days on the ocean.

Any comments are welcome and pictures of different colored boats would be most welcome. Here is a picture of what the Dory looks like now.

Any suggestions on who to go to for boat painting on the North Oregon Coast would also be a plus. I live in Bay City. Haven't been able to post much as my after retirement job has kept me out of town for quite a while. But now I am firmly retired and can devote more time to what is important. Fishing and hunting.

Thanks, Steve

 

[Joe Evens]

Having a hard time deciding what color to paint my 22 ft Bay model Harvey Dory. Present color is orange but very oxidized from many days on the ocean.

Any comments are welcome and pictures of different colored boats would be most welcome. Here is a picture of what the Dory looks like now.

Any suggestions on who to go to for boat painting on the North Oregon Coast would also be a plus. I live in Bay City. Haven't been able to post much as my after retirement job has kept me out of town for quite a while. But now I am firmly retired and can devote more time to what is important. Fishing and hunting.

Thanks, Steve

Just going to do the orange or the whole boat?
JE

 

[sss5358]

Water weight?

Harvey dories often leak into the area between the hull and the inside wall. This will build up an immense amount of weight as the foam becomes waterlogged. With no exit point, the water will stay until it rots the side panels from the inside.

My boat was originally an I/O. The area under the rear deck, at the top of the side panel, was very poorly sealed. Wide open, in fact. That area is protected from rain, but will hold water from surf and chop and wind blown rain.

When I found that, I was confident that I had found the source of what seemed like a never ending supply of water in the foam.. It was not the main reason and the mystery continued for another 15 yrs.
.
I ended up drilling four 3/8'' holes near the bottom of the wall to let it drain.

When I was doing the exterior restoration a couple years ago, I finally found the cause.

The trays on the early ones set on the inside of the first strake and the sidewall, and are drained via vertical holes drilled thru the bottom of the tray and the strake, exiting sown the outside.

The problem was that there was a very small gap between the hull and the tray in 3 or four drain holes.

I am adding this to the archive on the likelihood that another early boat has the same problem.

Seriously, anyone who has not checked for water in the walls recently. should do so. Just and drill the holes, and reseal with 5200

I have seen wet walls in both early and later boats, but am not very familiar with the later ones. The later boats were built differently and have differing vulnerabilities.

Perhaps someone could enlighten us.

My 22 ft Bay Model Harvey had that problem on one side. I do have a drain hole built in on each side from the last time Harvey re worked the boat in 2001 but even though the drains work I still got dry rot on the inside panel on one side. So I ended up using a lot of very expensive wood resin to actually rebuild part of the panel. Also water proofed it and in the 4 years since haven't had a problem. But cost in this special wood resin was about $400. I then cleared out the drain hole so it drains better now. The other side hasn't had that problem.

 

[sss5358]

Just going to do the orange or the whole boat?
JE

Just the orange areas.

 

[Sand Slider]

Are you thinking of paint or gelcoat? I love the orange white combo on your boat and think it is one of the best colors for an ocean boat. I think picking a color that can be seen both day and night is my highest priority. There are a lot of colors I like but don't think they make the most visible objects for being seen or found in the vast ocean.
If you are going to paint it then almost any good body shop could do it. It's fiberglass just like a corvette. Let's just hope it doesn't cost as much to paint. There are a lot of marine paints that can be applied at home to. It depends on quality a cost.
Good luck and keep us posted if you get it done. I still love it the way it is but understand if you are tired of it and want a change.

 

[IIonPilgrimg]

Nice dory. I would wash it really well, tape it off, wipe it down with acetone, then re-apply more gelcoat. More cost up front but, it would last waay longer than paint. The original lasted 40 years, right?

 

[Wenaha]

Just the orange areas.

A couple thoughts before you break out the check book. If your gelcoat is just badly oxidized, You might look into Poli Glow products. They made a friends old oxidized blue/white boat look brand new. Under $100 but copious amounts of elbow grease will be required.
A good read for anyone thinking about painting is:
http://www.simplicityboats.com/latexcarnel.html There are some contact links, but Dave has crossed the bar and likely will not respond to questions.
I did my 20' with Behr Premium Plus Ultra and couldn't be more pleased...I get a lot of compliments. Behr has an orange that is the closest match to the original Harvey color I've seen. The stuff is seriously durable, doesn't peel and super simple to touch up if ever needed. I used small foam cabinet rollers to apply. I'm guessing under $50 to do yours.

 

[Joe Evens]

A couple thoughts before you break out the check book. If your gelcoat is just badly oxidized, You might look into Poli Glow products. They made a friends old oxidized blue/white boat look brand new. Under $100 but copious amounts of elbow grease will be required.
A good read for anyone thinking about painting is:
http://www.simplicityboats.com/latexcarnel.html There are some contact links, but Dave has crossed the bar and likely will not respond to questions.
I did my 20' with Behr Premium Plus Ultra and couldn't be more pleased...I get a lot of compliments. Behr has an orange that is the closest match to the original Harvey color I've seen. The stuff is seriously durable, doesn't peel and super simple to touch up if ever needed. I used small foam cabinet rollers to apply. I'm guessing under $50 to do yours.

I agree re cleaning up the old gelcoat.

Regarding paint, If the boat stays outside much at all, and/or if you are wanting a 20 year paintjob, and I assume that you are, You should use a two part polyurethane. These paints have become available in the last few years designed for roll and tip. This is a fairly easy skill to learn. The finished product will be just as durable as any professional job. A good tip and roll job is difficult to distinguish from a spray job. In fact it is the norm for most high end yachts.

For your orange area, it will cost about $200, including the Interlux Perfection paint, the right primer, and brushing thinner. Probably another $100 for cleaning products, abrasives masking supplies, etc. You save a minimum of a thousand, and end up qualified to do any touch up, repairs, other boats, etc.
My 20 bucks,
JE

 

[Joe Evens]

My 22 ft Bay Model Harvey had that problem on one side. I do have a drain hole built in on each side from the last time Harvey re worked the boat in 2001 but even though the drains work I still got dry rot on the inside panel on one side. So I ended up using a lot of very expensive wood resin to actually rebuild part of the panel. Also water proofed it and in the 4 years since haven't had a problem. But cost in this special wood resin was about $400. I then cleared out the drain hole so it drains better now. The other side hasn't had that problem.

Mine also rotted out. The drain hole is not a fix.

 

[IIonPilgrimg]

Mine also rotted out. The drain hole is not a fix.

I believe Joe's main point is that one needs to know the properties of the material being applied. His-bar none preference is epoxy. And, I'm learning why. But, it's draw-back is simply that it's not U.V. resistant. If it were? No brainer! Everything in the water would be epoxy.

 

[Joe Evens]

Mine also rotted out. The drain hole is not a fix.

I was in a rush, and did not finish. The above statement had nothing to do with materials.

A drain hole in a sidewall can buy some time to deal with the real problem. The leak .The foam is still constantly wet, will continue rotting out the wall from the inside out. The foam is no longer adhered to the wall or the hull. this greatly reduces the strength and stiffness of the hull and breaks down the foam.

I simply procrastinated until it was too late.

The whole intent of the post about heavy boats and water filled walls was to prompt owners to check their walls, drain the water, then find and fix that leak

The leak that fills your wall will be a very simple thing. right in front of you. When I say that I looked for that leak for years, it really means that I spent a couple of hours in several different sessions., My bad, and it cost me.

Hopefully someone will actually read the post and learn from my mistake.
JE

 

[Joe Evens]

I believe Joe's main point is that one needs to know the properties of the material being applied. His-bar none preference is epoxy. And, I'm learning why. But, it's draw-back is simply that it's not U.V. resistant. If it were? No brainer! Everything in the water would be epoxy.

Yes, Tim, but paint is UV resistant.
Polyester resin is not UV resistant either. Gelcoat is resistant, but not UV proof, or even Waterproof. Hence, the massive problem of the blistering caused by osmosis. The only cure for the blistering of moored boats is to repair them with epoxy, and then apply an epoxy barrier coat, then paint.

I would love to have a wider choice of resins suitable for quality repairs and the homebuilding of boats and aircraft, But there are no others at this time. Only epoxy, and we are very fortunate to have such a versatile and relatively non toxic family of products available....JE

 

[Beach Monkey]

Having a hard time deciding what color to paint my 22 ft Bay model Harvey Dory. Present color is orange but very oxidized from many days on the ocean.

Any comments are welcome and pictures of different colored boats would be most welcome. Here is a picture of what the Dory looks like now.

Any suggestions on who to go to for boat painting on the North Oregon Coast would also be a plus. I live in Bay City. Haven't been able to post much as my after retirement job has kept me out of town for quite a while. But now I am firmly retired and can devote more time to what is important. Fishing and hunting.

Thanks, Steve

If you're looking for a new color scheme, this one's my favorite.

 

[IIonPilgrimg]

Yes, Tim, but paint is UV resistant.
Polyester resin is not UV resistant either. Gelcoat is resistant, but not UV proof, or even Waterproof.

So, paint (and bottom coating) do have a role to play, even if they must be reapplied on a frequent schedule. The big picture is likely: a fiberglass dory requires as much thoughtful care and maintenance as a wooden one. Perhaps, it just survives longer when neglected, unlike the poor nano-pet I found in the attic recently.

Good refresher discussion. Glad it came up. But, we probably sound like two O.C. nuts to some.

 

[Joe Evens]

Good refresher discussion. Glad it came up. But, we probably sound like two O.C. nuts to some.

So true, and fewer of us will ever live, eat, and breath their way thru a major restoration as we have,.. to the point of waking up after a hard day and night session still covered in fiberglass and resin dust, washing your face, and getting back on task.

Doubtless, this discussion likely seems nuts to some readers, but is 100% on topic, and (IF read and understood) can help other Harvey owners (and others) perform quality restorative maintenance on their boats.

This is the essence of this thread.

The fact that we are fighting a losing battle keeping these old boats operational, doesn't mean that we shouldn't use the best weapons available to us.....JE

 

[Joe Evens]

So, paint (and bottom coating) do have a role to play, even if they must be reapplied on a frequent schedule. The big picture is likely: a fiberglass dory requires as much thoughtful care and maintenance as a wooden one. Perhaps, it just survives longer when neglected, unlike the poor nano-pet I found in the attic recently.

Good refresher discussion. Glad it came up. But, we probably sound like two O.C. nuts to some.

Bottom coating, if used, must be frequently re applied. Paint, not so much.

A quality paint job, similar to your car, (A two part Polyurethane), can be expected to last decades with reasonable care. Wash/wax it once a year, park it under cover in the off season, and that paint may outlive you. Like your car, 20 yrs of constant exposure will take a toll.

 

[IIonPilgrimg]

This is the essence of this thread...JE

It is also the reason I joined ifish in the first place. At the time, I hoped this discussion already existed so I could glean from it what I needed. Turns out, it's a very complex topic and I have far more still to learn than ever I imagined. (Still don't understand thixotropy)

 

[sss5358]

If you're looking for a new color scheme, this one's my favorite.

Thanks for the post. I like the paint job and the boat. I am leaning towards having it repainted orange. Sadly there is no gel coat on top. The prior owner used a one part Poly paint on it.

 

[sss5358]

It is also the reason I joined ifish in the first place. At the time, I hoped this discussion already existed so I could glean from it what I needed. Turns out, it's a very complex topic and I have far more still to learn than ever I imagined. (Still don't understand thixotropy)

These posts are all most welcome. A real learning experience for me. I have not been around any other Harvey owners for any length of time so having you guys post back and forth is appreciated. I think I will stay with the orange. Like how it works with the black top and how easy it is to see out on the salt.