Hey ifish.
Here's a little recap of what I did when refurbishing my boat, in the effort that perhaps it could help someone in the future. :excited:
Bottom: Epoxy coating
![Image]()
Place your boat upside down on a hard surface that you can make quite a mess on. My driveway was a great spot on a day that my wife had to work and I didn't. The yard after all of this process had dust all over.
Scrape off the old epoxy coating that is easily removed with a putty knife.
![Image]()
Using a grinder with a 60 grit sandpaper wheel, grind down the remaining epoxy to make smooth transitions between non-epoxy surface and epoxy surface. i recommend roughing up the entire surface that will be re-epoxy coated. (observe all safety precautions when doing this in regards to epoxy particals and using a grinding wheel)
![Image]()
clean off all dust and remaining epoxy using a blower and then a cleaning agent and as minimal water as possible. High pressure air works, so does a leaf blower, but don't forget to actually wipe down the surface with a damp cloth to remove fine dust. We avoided water to ensure that the epoxy would cure as well as possilbe to the surface.
Now move the boat into an area like a garage or work shop that you can keep normalized temperature (60-75*F).
![Image]()
Mix up your 2 part epoxy. This stuff was the consistancy of molassas, so there was no wait time. Can said I had 30 minutes to apply the mix, but was spreadable for about 4 hours. (WELL VENTILATED AREA).
![Image]()
Spread on the epoxy evenly to the bottom of the boat. In areas that you see that there is more needed, simply gather it up in that area. Mine was moving very slowly for about 4 hours and then started to harden. It acts just like thick syrup (molasses). Check on it for the first few hours (up to 6?) to make sure it is not running down on the edges.
![Image]()
Clean up any epoxy that is in placed that it shouldn't be with some kind of solvent cleaner. I used Goof Off. If the epoxy needs to be adjusted, feel free to even it out for the next couple hours.
![Image]()
I balanced my boat on some objects in the garage to make sure that it was up-side-down exactly while the epoxy cured. It had a tendancy to run all to one side (very slowly) if I left it tilted at all to either side.
![Image]()
Monitor the temperature of the room. Should stay around 60-75* to achieve a good epoxy cure.
In 2-3 days you can feel free to turn the boat back over so that you can work on the interior of the boat.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Interior: Truck Bed-liner
![Image]()
Sand and scrape the existing floor area that is not covered with diamond plating. Then vacuum up the dust and debris.
![Image]()
Mask off the entire area so that it will be ready for primer and truck-bed liner.
![Image]()
Apply primer to the paint that will not remove eaisly and allow to dry for about 12-24 hours.
![Image]()
After primer is fully dry, apply truck bed-liner material with a roller or brush. I applied mine with a short bristled brush and placed first coat lenthwise with the boat and second coat perpendicular to the first coat. After both coats were applied, the lines showing how material was applied went away. Let this material dry for about 2 hours befor next step.
![Image]()
The truck bed-liner should be dry to the touch when removing the masking tape and the newspapers, but you don't want it to be so dry that the tape will not remove eaisly.
____________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Trailer: New Roller
Lastly, there was an issue with the roller bar at the back end of my trailer...
![Image]()
Roller pipe had no bearings left. They were working as pins direct to the extirior roller, and rusted all up.
I took a hack saw and cut off the old stuff.
After doing a bit of questioning to people that know much more about this sort of stuff than I do, I had my buddy make me two stainless steel brackets with stainless 3" rods welded on itand a piece of stainless steel pipe with UHMW inserts on the ends to act as roller bearings for the pipe to rods.
Tapped some holes for the bolts to hold it on...
![Image]()
![Image]()
It works like a charm!
Here are the components that I used on the surfaces of the boat (for reference).
![Image]()
READY TO ROW.
JUST ADD FISH. :flag2::applause::applause::applause:
*Disclaimer: I am NOT a professional at doing this, I just thought it might be nice for someone to see this and know that it is not that complicated. I just took me about 1 week (while still going to work each day) to get all of this completed (Started on Sunday and completed it all by Saturday).:twocents:
Here's a little recap of what I did when refurbishing my boat, in the effort that perhaps it could help someone in the future. :excited:
Bottom: Epoxy coating
Place your boat upside down on a hard surface that you can make quite a mess on. My driveway was a great spot on a day that my wife had to work and I didn't. The yard after all of this process had dust all over.
Scrape off the old epoxy coating that is easily removed with a putty knife.
Using a grinder with a 60 grit sandpaper wheel, grind down the remaining epoxy to make smooth transitions between non-epoxy surface and epoxy surface. i recommend roughing up the entire surface that will be re-epoxy coated. (observe all safety precautions when doing this in regards to epoxy particals and using a grinding wheel)
clean off all dust and remaining epoxy using a blower and then a cleaning agent and as minimal water as possible. High pressure air works, so does a leaf blower, but don't forget to actually wipe down the surface with a damp cloth to remove fine dust. We avoided water to ensure that the epoxy would cure as well as possilbe to the surface.
Now move the boat into an area like a garage or work shop that you can keep normalized temperature (60-75*F).
Mix up your 2 part epoxy. This stuff was the consistancy of molassas, so there was no wait time. Can said I had 30 minutes to apply the mix, but was spreadable for about 4 hours. (WELL VENTILATED AREA).
Spread on the epoxy evenly to the bottom of the boat. In areas that you see that there is more needed, simply gather it up in that area. Mine was moving very slowly for about 4 hours and then started to harden. It acts just like thick syrup (molasses). Check on it for the first few hours (up to 6?) to make sure it is not running down on the edges.
Clean up any epoxy that is in placed that it shouldn't be with some kind of solvent cleaner. I used Goof Off. If the epoxy needs to be adjusted, feel free to even it out for the next couple hours.
I balanced my boat on some objects in the garage to make sure that it was up-side-down exactly while the epoxy cured. It had a tendancy to run all to one side (very slowly) if I left it tilted at all to either side.
Monitor the temperature of the room. Should stay around 60-75* to achieve a good epoxy cure.
In 2-3 days you can feel free to turn the boat back over so that you can work on the interior of the boat.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Interior: Truck Bed-liner
Sand and scrape the existing floor area that is not covered with diamond plating. Then vacuum up the dust and debris.
Mask off the entire area so that it will be ready for primer and truck-bed liner.
Apply primer to the paint that will not remove eaisly and allow to dry for about 12-24 hours.
After primer is fully dry, apply truck bed-liner material with a roller or brush. I applied mine with a short bristled brush and placed first coat lenthwise with the boat and second coat perpendicular to the first coat. After both coats were applied, the lines showing how material was applied went away. Let this material dry for about 2 hours befor next step.
The truck bed-liner should be dry to the touch when removing the masking tape and the newspapers, but you don't want it to be so dry that the tape will not remove eaisly.
____________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Trailer: New Roller
Lastly, there was an issue with the roller bar at the back end of my trailer...
Roller pipe had no bearings left. They were working as pins direct to the extirior roller, and rusted all up.
I took a hack saw and cut off the old stuff.
After doing a bit of questioning to people that know much more about this sort of stuff than I do, I had my buddy make me two stainless steel brackets with stainless 3" rods welded on itand a piece of stainless steel pipe with UHMW inserts on the ends to act as roller bearings for the pipe to rods.
Tapped some holes for the bolts to hold it on...
It works like a charm!
Here are the components that I used on the surfaces of the boat (for reference).
READY TO ROW.
JUST ADD FISH. :flag2::applause::applause::applause:
*Disclaimer: I am NOT a professional at doing this, I just thought it might be nice for someone to see this and know that it is not that complicated. I just took me about 1 week (while still going to work each day) to get all of this completed (Started on Sunday and completed it all by Saturday).:twocents:
