Dont forget price.
I know nothing about composites as I'm still pulling on my Sawyer Ash oars, but this has the makings for a great discussion.

 

I've only had experience with two or the four composites, but I also have experience with solid wood to compare them to. I had a set of Sawyer composites with wood blades that were counter balanced. These had a low swing weight, and the flex was similar to wood. The down side for me was the wood blades because I beat them up too much. I currently use Cataract oars on our rafts and drift boat. The raft oars have Carlisle blades and the drift boat oars have the magnum blades. None are counter balanced. Swing weight with Carlisle blades is good, with the magnum blades they are tip heavy but manageable. Flex is a bit stiffer than wood. Shaft durability is excellent. The magnum blades float, Carlisle's don't. I've beat the crap out of both types of blades with no failures.

 

I watched what the guides were using on one of my favorite steelhead rivers, and pretty much they were using sawyer dynalites. I use a set of wood oars that I refinished and they said JD on them. They are laminated and are very nice now. They seem to be very heavy though. Would like to try some composite oars someday, but they are EXPENSIVE.:twocents:

 

Because I do quite a bit of whitewater rafting, I've abused and broken both the Carlisle outfitter blades and the Cataract Magnums. Breaking a Magnum blade is really difficult... they are probably 10 times tougher than the Carlisle Outfitter blades. As Wingdam mentioned, the Magnum blades float, but are are heavier than the Carlisles.

For shafts, I have both Cataracts and Carlisles. The Carlisles are lighter weight, but the Cataracts are pretty much bulletproof, and feel a lot like a wood oar.

I've never rowed the Sawyer DyneLite blades, though they look great. Note: These blades are $70 (each) more expensive than Cataract Magnum blades... I would have a hard time justifying that price difference. $140 is a lot to pay for an oar blade.

Right now, Cataract Magnum blades are $18 more than Carlisle Outfitter blades. This is an extra amount that I would gladly pay. You get a whole lot more for your money with Magnums, in my opinion.

I haven't tried the Lamiglas oars, but they look sweet. ...Pricey, but sweet.

 

...I want to add that even though Cataract Magnum blades are "floating", they are much heavier and sink faster than the Carlisles. When on the end of an oar shaft, they don't really "float", at all. My point is, if you think these are going to just sit on the top of the water when you aren't holding them... They don't - They sink. The Carlisles, though lighter, don't float - whether on the end of a shaft, or not.

 

I got a set of 9'6" counter balanced Cataract oars with Razor Blades that I've used for about three years and they're killer! I was in the market for oars and was looking at some sawyers with dynalite blades and Chuck from Pavati talked me into the Cataracts at a sportmans show and he hooked it up! I'm not talking down on sawyers one bit because I've never used them and for the amount of people that do is showing something. The thing that really sold me on the Cataract was the design of the blades which I know you can inter change with shafts but I chose to match it up. I did alittle research before of pulled the trigger and the Dynalite blades are weigh 2lbs, a half pound lighter than the Razor Blades but if u look at the Razor blades they're seamless carbon fiber compaired to the Dynalites which are carbon fiber and fiberglass epoxied to a wood core. That wood core might be good for flex but the epoxy job on it kinda steered me away cause it looked alittle more rugged. All in all I'm sure they both have their ups and downs but I have no complaints with the Cataracts tipped with the Razor Blades....I wish more peeps would use them so I could hear they're opinion, I'm the only one on the rivers I fish that I've seen sportin them.

 

I got a set of 9'6" counter balanced Cataract oars with Razor Blades that I've used for about three years and they're killer! I'm the only one on the rivers I fish that I've seen sportin them.

There might be a reason for that......I love my Dynalites.

 

I have the Cataracts with the magnum blades. Really like them. They do float higher in the water then my old wooden ones. They are 9' 4" with the blades and handle really well. I like to say "I've got brakes now." Much better control than I had as they are larger blades. My spare oar is a Carslile and I like the cataracts better.

I recommend them highly and can't see how any other can be significantly better. Maybe they all have certain unique features that appeal to some and not others?

If I take care of them the should last a long time. :twocents:

 

I've spent lots of time using sawyer lites, cataracts with regular and magnum blades and counter balanced oars. Sawyer lies are a very forgiving oar because they tend to flex easily, but my forearms get tired of throwing the weight around. Counter balance oars have always seemed heavy to me and my shoulders and forearms got tired faster with them than with sawyers. Cataracts can be flexed when you are really pulling hard, my forearms had zero problems with them, but my shoulders had to get into shape to use them with magnum blades. Cataract with magnum blades are my oar of choice...but I'd sure like to try Lamiglass or Carlisles oars.

 

I have a set of the red carlisle oars at the moment - not impressed after rowing a set of cataracts a buddy had a few weeks ago.

I looked around and if I was to replace my carlisle oars i would be about $140 for a pair of shafts give or take plus shipping.

Cataracts would run at least $300 for the shafts I'm looking at. I'm going to be paying the difference in the near future, unless i can get a demo on a pair of Lami's sometime soon. I already have magnum tips that i am going to use.

 

OK, the weekend is over so I got off the dime and made a couple phone calls to research all this.

Carlisle - Aluminum shaft, very stiff, more of a raft oar.

Cataract - The SGG model is said to flex like wood, but lighter and more durable. The SGX model is 50% stiffer.

Lamiglass - Three models, the Texalium is silver and has aluminum impregnated fiberglass wrap; the Graphite model is gray; the Kevlar wrapped oar is red. All flex about 10% stiffer than Cataract SGX, so a very stiff oar.

Sawyer - The MXSG is wood like in flex.

Blades - All interchange, but vary in weight and feel. Light blades inclue the 2lb Sawyer Dynalite and the 3lb Cataract Razor. Heavy blades include the Standard and Magnum Cataracts at 4-1/2lb. Exotic blades available from guys in Montana -Wyoming are incredibly light but might not be suitable for our rivers.

Counterweights - Used to balance oars so they don't feel blade heavy. Available as slide on weights, lead weighted glue-in handles, or it's possible to use ankle weights or pencil lead wrapped around the shaft.

So there ya go, some facts to fool with!

 

The type of rivers one floats would dictate what oars to buy i would think .
i bought carlisles in montana because i lost an oar on the big hole river , after getting these with guide model blades - very wide - i could move much faster in short strokes for smaller rivers !

if you float the trask, wilson , sandy , clack and other calmer waters i would use wood or wood composite combo.

for rivers like the eastfork lewis , upper wash , upper kilchis , upper sul duc - rivers like these take fast moves , and short strokes while going around rocks in the middle of a rapid , then i would want composite with wide blades and no or little flex !

long wood oars are good on large rivers where you just pick a slot and float through . on small white water rivers think short and fast - grabbing alot of water fast to get out of trouble , and theres not much diver n bait pulling or plug pulling on these small rivers - its get out of rapid fast while trying to stop the boat in the head of the hole because in short order your in another rapid ! i think alot of people buy to long of oars which are slow and ride low in the hands , i like short oars , they sit alittle higher in the arms and might wear shoulders out but i need shoulder strength for fast hard moves for the rivers i like to float ! oar length wears on different body parts , long oars kill my hands and grip , shorter oars work my shoulders and back more which is what i like . long thin bladed oars are not for me , i am always trying to do the hardest rivers to have the least pressure while fishing
and i would rather be set up for the hard stuff then set up for the easy stuff !!!

 

The type of rivers one floats would dictate what oars to buy i would think .
i bought carlisles in montana because i lost an oar on the big hole river , after getting these with guide model blades - very wide - i could move much faster in short strokes for smaller rivers !

if you float the trask, wilson , sandy , clack and other calmer waters i would use wood or wood composite combo.

for rivers like the eastfork lewis , upper wash , upper kilchis , upper sul duc - rivers like these take fast moves , and short strokes while going around rocks in the middle of a rapid , then i would want composite with wide blades and no or little flex !

long wood oars are good on large rivers where you just pick a slot and float through . on small white water rivers think short and fast - grabbing alot of water fast to get out of trouble , and theres not much diver n bait pulling or plug pulling on these small rivers - its get out of rapid fast while trying to stop the boat in the head of the hole because in short order your in another rapid ! i think alot of people buy to long of oars which are slow and ride low in the hands , i like short oars , they sit alittle higher in the arms and might wear shoulders out but i need shoulder strength for fast hard moves for the rivers i like to float ! oar length wears on different body parts , long oars kill my hands and grip , shorter oars work my shoulders and back more which is what i like . long thin bladed oars are not for me , i am always trying to do the hardest rivers to have the least pressure while fishing
and i would rather be set up for the hard stuff then set up for the easy stuff !!!

Nice points. Well thought out. :flowered:

 

I have been rowing for over 30 years, mostly wood Sawyers but have to say I am extremely impressed with those Dynalites composites. Had a buddy behind me this summer configured the same as my DB but rowing wooden oars and ask why I wasn't rowing hard like him. Dynalite composites! I would equate it to cutting butter with a knife vs a wooden ice cream spoon. I have a nice pair of Cataract composites for my 2 man pontoon that are equally great. My only concern is possibly durability of the composites vs wood but they row incredibly nice.

 

We have been running Lamiglas shafts and Sawyer Polecat shafts, both with Dynalite blades in the rental boats. All are fantastic oars. If you like a stiff oar the Lamiglas is tops, if you like a little flex similar to a wood oar in a composite shaft the Sawyer gets the nod. The Dynalite blades are the best all around rowing blade I have ever used, but I had some reservations putting them in rental boats because I was a bit worried about durability. I was worried for nothing, they have been bulletproof for us.

 

or you could buy cheap oars and throw on the 3x 80 and two big batteries. The oars will look brand new when you replace the batteries.

 

I've rowed alot of oars in thirtythree years of drift boating. For most of twentyfive years I rowed thin shaft Smoker ash oars (not the thick shaft style that rafters use). Why? The flex of a good ash oar makes your shoulders feel better after a long day of rowing. The down side is the mantainance, spar varnishing and repairing edges. Mine are now worn out.

Carlisle oars have no place in a driftboat other than a spare. Leave them in a raft were they belong.

Cataracts always feel like stiff, heavy clubs when I row them, though I'm sure the razor blades are a huge improvement. I think guys like them because they are tough. The shafts get slivery after a few years of use. I know guys who wrap electrical tape on the shafts to keep from getting slivers in their hands.

Sawyer Lites are a very good, affordable wood oar. Just be sure if you buy a pair you weigh them out. They don't all weigh the same and you want a balanced pair,plus the shafts are not all the same diameter. Once again the mantainance issues are a down side.

What oars do I like? Any shaft with Dynalite blades. They are super tough and lite. After beating them on rocks in low water on the O.P. I became a believer. So far no mantainance problems, which is probably why most guides are using them. The only down side is they don't float as high as some blades. Mine are on polecat shafts and they seem to have reasonable flex. I talked to Jason at Sawyer Oars and I am considering sending in my Smoker oars, to have dynalites grafted on to the shafts.

Those new kevlar oars that Fish-Rite had at last years Sportsmans show caught my eye. Is anybody out there rowing a pair? They were so lite that they looked scary. I would like to see some reviews on them.

 

Carlisle oars have no place in a driftboat other than a spare. Leave them in a raft were they belong.

I'm curious...Why? Are you talking about the shafts, blades, or both?

The shafts get slivery after a few years of use. I know guys who wrap electrical tape on the shafts to keep from getting slivers in their hands.

This used to be the case, but not anymore. Cataract oars no longer have this problem.

 

I have a pair of 9' Sawyer dynalites. One of the paddles broke right at the end of the shaft. I'm having a hard time getting the wood filled aluminum paddle sleeve out of the shaft. I've tried various methods involving a drill bit but I'm having zero success. I'm also in the market for a 30" dynalite paddle. From what I've found on the internet, they are spendy and hard to locate. Thanks in advance for any advice. Mike

 

I have a pair of 9' Sawyer dynalites. One of the paddles broke right at the end of the shaft. I'm having a hard time getting the wood filled aluminum paddle sleeve out of the shaft. I've tried various methods involving a drill bit but I'm having zero success. I'm also in the market for a 30" dynalite paddle. From what I've found on the internet, they are spendy and hard to locate. Thanks in advance for any advice. Mike

Andy & Bax in Portland stocks Dynalites

Try drillin a 5/16 hole in the broken shaft end and screw in a 3/8x3" lag bolt part way in and grab it with some visegrip pliers. Spray some WD40 in the seam and pull, twist, hammer and cuss till it comes out. Be sure you screwed in the locking screw that holds the blade on!

 

tee-hee-hee-hee, snort, ha-ha, ha, ha, ha! :meme::jester::yay:

 

I think I'm having a virtual splash and giggle experience :excited:
For free ! And no white knuckles or clueless frontseaters !

How many times have I suffered alone in the back seat while the frontseaters were happily oblivious to the hazards.......Hey, move left...trim the boat ! We might hit, so don't get excited !

Ah, the memories.

 

That goes for all of us as rowers. Never fails that a lot of passengers have no idea of what their impact is when they decide to move around while going through stuff.

Sign of a good rower...that they can get through that stuff and not need to say a word to their passengers while passing through a hazardous body of water. (or good passengers...lol)