[Berdink]

Thanks for starting this thread!
Exactly what I'm considering right now.

 

[Gills92]

Worth every penny. The only thing to consider is what brand and what size.

 

[BillsFishingHole]

Another thing to consider. If you have difficulty with balance. The ultera remote stow could save you from taking a swim. Not that any of us on this site are old and stoved up 😉

not much to added to the above replies. I did have a small aluminum bass boat with. 36v bow mount for the Yakima river. If you weren’t paying attention it could toss you out of the boat. Grabbed the but seat a few times to save me

I currently have a 45 in shaft, 24v 80lbs Ultera with a 80 amp 24v Amped Lithium, on a 18 foot open NW jet. Fished bass the other day for 5 hours on 3 to 5. Used 17% of the battery. Little wind but no real current.

like Star fish said longer has the benefit of standing taller and easier to see your head from the back of the boat

M

 

[OregonApe]

Another thing to consider. If you have difficulty with balance. The ultera remote stow could save you from taking a swim. Not that any of us on this site are old and stoved up 😉

not much to added to the above replies. I did have a small aluminum bass boat with. 36v bow mount for the Yakima river. If you weren’t paying attention it could toss you out of the boat. Grabbed the but seat a few times to save me

I currently have a 45 in shaft, 24v 80lbs Ultera with a 80 amp 24v Amped Lithium, on a 18 foot open NW jet. Fished bass the other day for 5 hours on 3 to 5. Used 17% of the battery. Little wind but no real current.

like Star fish said longer has the benefit of standing taller and easier to see your head from the back of the boat

M

Yeah, I've already been warned about not keeping the remote attached to my body somewhere. Granted, I'm never out alone but still.

Also, it was explained to me that there is no need to convert to watt hours if you know the current. I had just gotten into that habit because so many devices tell you watts used not amps.

 

[BillsFishingHole]

@OregonApe

Why would you not have the fob around your neck?😃 I was alluding to not having to be at the bow of the boat in rough water pulling up the motor manually. The auto stow feature is a great thing.

M

 

[Joek]

@OregonApe

Why would you not have the fob around your neck?😃 I was alluding to not having to be at the bow of the boat in rough water pulling up the motor manually. The auto stow feature is a great thing.

M

I have learned that the remote hanging around my neck results in too many accidental buttons being pressed. Most often my propeller seems to get turned off.

I will instead secure the remote to something at the back of the boat so that I can manipulate the motor while playing back there.

I can also manipulate my bow mount on my screen at the helm.

This approach is the best for me.

With the Kraken - one touch anchor at the motor. I can make adjustments to the bow mount with my watch - nice option if I ended up on the wet side of the gunnel.

 

[Berdink]

OregonApe, where is your thread about building your own?

 

[OregonApe]

OregonApe, where is your thread about building your own?

I started by asking about the autoboat smart head. https://www.ifish.net/threads/has-a...autoboat-smart-head-for-trolling-motors.1715723/?post_id=17247565#post-17247565
It has gone up in price from like $600 prerelease to $700 to $850. Looking like less of a value relative to getting a pre built option.

I asked about using a lower power trolling motor with a gas kicker here: https://www.ifish.net/threads/bow-mount-thrust-for-steering-only.1715818/
People were less than impressed by that idea.
I still think it would work better than people think just based on how many people already use their gas kicker in higher wind or current situations to take some strain off the electric trolling motor. Still, the idea was cost savings.

 

[Berdink]

Yeah, Not to derail this thread, but there needs to be more options. More competition might help bring the pricing down. Typically, as technology gets more advanced, prices drop and products get better.

 

[OregonApe]

Yeah, Not to derail this thread, but there needs to be more options. More competition might help bring the pricing down. Typically, as technology gets more advanced, prices drop and products get better.

Yeah,

I agree. I am starting to seeing more Chinese options. Even Vevor has one now. The reviews don't look great though.

At least batteries have come way down in price even with tariffs.

 

[konaaahbend]

Buy once, cry once. I used the minn kota website formula to calculate shaft length and it failed miserably. 60 inches and 50 lbs. Might have worked on a calm koke reservoir, but at Charleston I had to get used to the thwap thwap thwap every time the prop breached. 50 lbs wasn't enough for both steering and thrust. I now run a 72 inch with 80 lbs and have no complaints! 18 1/2' Bayrunner

 

[Berdink]

So, one separate 24 volt battery, or two 12 volt batteries to provide 24 volts.
But this 24 volt system would be separate from the 12 volt system for the rest of your boat and motors.
I have two batteries just for my 12 volt system. Now two more 12 volt batteries for the 24 volt system.

 

[WapitiBob]

So, one separate 24 volt battery, or two 12 volt batteries to provide 24 volts.
But this 24 volt system would be separate from the 12 volt system for the rest of your boat and motors.
I have two batteries just for my 12 volt system. Now two more 12 volt batteries for the 24 volt system.

24v LiTime for Terrova
12v LiTime for 3 graphs
12v AGM in the back for 40HP Mercury

Single 24 volt was cheaper than two 12's a cpl months ago when I switched. Lithium's are half the weight of lead acid and don't get all scuzzed up from off gassing.

 

[OregonApe]

I ordered a couple of Eco-Worthy 12V 150AH blue tooth batteries on sale in anticipation of getting a motor. They sent me one battery instead of two. So far customer service has not gotten back to me. Just opened a complaint with Ebay.

 

[joeer77]

24v LiTime for Terrova
12v LiTime for 3 graphs
12v AGM in the back for 40HP Mercury

Single 24 volt was cheaper than two 12's a cpl months ago when I switched. Lithium's are half the weight of lead acid and don't get all scuzzed up from off gassing.

View attachment 1074683

Nice setup!

 

[WapitiBob]

Nice setup!

Break Out Another Thousand LOL

 

[Berdink]

Break Out Another Thousand LOL

But I'm saving money by not having to buy fish to eat 😜

 

[konaaahbend]

Everybody knows that fish and game cost $89.93 a pound. Except salmon...they run $158.72 per pound!

 

[samntrllr]

So you all hated my idea of throwing a smart controller on a cheap tiller electric motor for steering and using my gas kicker for propulsion. I still think it would work at an affordable price, but fine, let's say I'm going with a full electric option, what should I consider.

My thoughts in no particular order:

1. Freshwater use only, so no need for something salt rated.
2. My bow to water line is only about 20in, so honestly, a shorter shaft model would work I think. That being said, it is hard to find more powerful options in short shaft. How does that measurement work? So a 60in model would be 40in below the water line? That seems extreme. Or does it include the length of the shaft above the mounting bracket and is the motor casing included in that 60in?
3. Boat is a 20ft Northriver Mariner. It is pretty flat bottomed and fairly light. Freshwater boat so thinner bottom than a seahawk. I'm thinking 80lb thrust. I'm sure some of you are going to say I need 100+ but that seems overkill for freshwater trolling. I'm not fighting coastal winds here. Maybe Odell level winds. If you absolutely think I wouldn't be able to stay on course with 80lbs then say so, but let's not bump me up to 36V just because more is always better. I can always turn on the gas kicker.
4. First thought is 2x 12v in series, lithium ion, like Litime or similar.
5. I don't need sonar on it. I think anyway.
6. I don't need a foot pedal. I think anyway. This is not a bass boat.
7. The biggest wants are gps course plotting or at least the ability to keep me going in a straight line. Spot lock. Remote steering.

Is there anything else I'm not considering?

I was looking at something like: https://minnkota.johnsonoutdoors.com/us/shop/freshwater-trolling-motors/terrova/1358380

I have a 60 inch BM MinnKota. You only need to lower it for the height needed to get it 12" below water line. The rest is in the air. Less torque on the shaft is important. No need to be 24 inches deep in the water.

 

[ChinookSlayer]

One thing to also consider is, is the quick release plate for mounting to your bow. Those let you easily remove your motor from your boat and put it in storage. Your motor bracket just slides onto the quick release mount and you're done. I'll second what others have said, that if you're trolling into the wind/current, just drop your kicker down for main propolsion and let the BM steer you around.

If your battery fiasco doesn't get sorted out, go with LiTime instead, they have superb customer service and excellent batteries and great prices. They replace free of charge for me a battery that was messing up with the bluetooth connection.