IFish Fishing Forum banner

Bobber Stop Problems!

11K views 30 replies 24 participants last post by  brushpuppy  
#1 ·
I know obstacles are part of the adventure we dearly love, and call fishing. But I'm having issues with my bobber stops moving up my line on nearly every cast. I've used both the hi-vis string, and the rubber nub varieties and I keep running into the same issue with both. I can't say what's causing it for certain, but I've had a heck of a time fishing since I can't set my depth properly. Anyone else have this issue? How'd you remedy it? I'm currently running 30# braid, to a mono bumper (bobber stops on mono bumper), to a 8# flouro leader. Thanks in advance!
 
#2 ·
I always had the little rubber ones slide, even the smallest ones they make. I use those as little bumper/knot protection only. The string stops are what I use but have found they arent created equal. I only try to get one kind but couldn't tell you the brand and I usually just tell by the look of them in person. Some are cheaply made and seem to be loosely made with slicker line. I always clip the tags shorts (just long enough to grip to tighten if needed) and then burn them so they don't unravel but even with burnt ends the loosely made ones will twist and unravel and just become a knotted mess above your bobber. I know that probably didn't help much. Basically for me the rubber ones will always slide and the string ones aren't created equal so try different ones. I guess you could also try tying your own with dacron line if all else fails.
 
#7 ·
Not all stops are equal. I only use the Beau Mac and Thill dacron stops. I also use 2 at a time next to each other. Also, it may be that you are using such a light bumper. I never use anything less than 10# for winter steelhead....
 
#9 ·
I'm no expert but 9 out of 10 times knot is the problem. The neon chartreuse generic bobber stops with red or green stopper beads had worked great for me for years. I did had same problem as in bobber stop will slip....it was either of too heavy lead which hit it backwards on that stopper once it lands on water because of my jerky cast and way too much lead...as in every action has equal and opposite reaction OR the initial knot (cuz of natural human tendency to put a knot over knot to further solidify) was not tightened good enough. But once I corrected those two issues, to this day not once had problem besides above said parameters..which are very easy to correct. What we think is a good knot to solidify over the initial knot are sometimes not that great once the whole set up soaks water after few casts...regardless you put on mono or braid. Those generic neon green dacron stoppers work good for me on both mono or braid....just don't cinch em to death in any of those lines....as they will create weak point.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
#12 ·
I've had the best luck using the Dacron bobber stops on my braided line, and the rubber Beau Mac stops on my mono. The Beau Macs come in 2 colors/sizes, black for 8-12 pound test line, and red for 4-8 pound test line. When I've run the rubber stops on my braid, they seem to slide way too easily. The same is true when I use a Dacron stop on my mono. Good luck!
 
#13 ·
I’ve never had a problem with this till this year, I bought a rod/reel combo used from somebody and it’s spooled up with 30# neon green braid (no clue what brand but it seems like slicker line than I have on my other setups), with a sliding float set up. I have always used the small rubber egg stops off Amazon with no issues but this combo the rubber stop will not stay put, I just started casting with about 6-7’ of leader out so the rubber egg doesn’t go through the guides and move it. I’ll have to try two rubber stop or maybe the rubber stop with the Dacron stop above it.

I was also using a 1/2oz bobber with a 1/4 weight below the float and a 1/4 jig which was creating quite the action casting the whole set up, I’m going to buy some 1/4oz floats so I can eliminate the weight being in two places. Might lose some distance but I think it’ll help the chaos casting the setup.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#15 ·
Had the same problem - went to 2 of the Thill string/Dacron types and problem solved. Make sure you snug them down tight - I’ll often use my pliers on one side and hemos on the other to really tighten them down before trimming tag ends.
 
#16 · (Edited)
I agree with the not all stops are created equal.

I used to double and sometimes triple the stops to ensure they don't move on me.

I tried these out this season and they have been working great. Also, they go through my guides a lot better than the egg shaped ones I've used in the past:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075PH4XVK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

EDIT: Just noticed they are not currently available. If you're inclined, you may want to try a different brand. The cylinder shaped clear ones are the ones I've started using.
 
#17 ·
I moved to a clip on bobber and I love it. No bobber stops.

I use one stout 9'0+ rod with Maxima line. I drift fish with this setup and in seconds I can add the clip on float should I want to float fish my bead setup. Or, I can remove my drift gear set up by simply clipping off above my 2 way swivel, and choosing whatever pre-tied jig, worm setup I want. These pre-tied leaders all have a 2 way swivel already attached to them so it's as easy as tying a new knot. Its simple and lets me go back and forth very quickly so I can cover a lot of water. I'll never go back!
 
#20 ·
Been using the same 30lb Dacron for the past 20 plus years. Just a simple 9 turn uni-knot make sure it seats smoothly snug it down and leave about 1/2 inch of tag on each side. It rarely slides much when its tied on my braid a little more so when tied on mono since it is slick especially when wet but just snug it down and it holds pretty well.
 
#25 ·
https://youtu.be/pj6MN7iXKLQ

Here is a video from the company. I would wager I am the only person who fishes them for steelhead on the west coast...They are based in Minnesota, not widely available, and marketed toward bass.

I order from their website and get the quick swap bobber, size large. It is just enough to hold my steelhead jigs with no extra weights. Downside is shipping cost. They are not perfect, certainly not for the float snob, but if you are curious it would be worth trying one to see if you like them. If they ever get too expensive I will find a different clip on float.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#27 · (Edited)
Those are pretty interesting. I'm wondering if you don't like the actual float provided if you can just use their "quick connector" and swap out a different float. Seems like a possibly easy way to switch over from drift fishing to bobber dogging in an instant. But I'm not sure the float would orient correctly (pointing downstream) with the way the connector only attaches the line to the bottom of the float.
 
#31 ·
I use a section of a rubber band and tie a simple, trimmed, D-Loop and slide it accordingly for depth. Mind you it will not pass through a guide well but I rarely run a bobber more than 5ft and can cast accordingly with that much line out. Do note I am not a, "bobber fisherman", per se, but it's all about presentation anyway and I started using floats 40 years ago to access tricky/snaggy, soft flow holding areas and travel lanes that i couldn't cover the way I wanted to with drift gear or hardware. I played around with all the conventional float gear and found the side slit floats go on and off easy and saved time as I could drift fish a run then add a float a couple feet or so above my gear and touch the softer water up against the under cut bank, behind large boulders or adjacent to downed timber etc etc.... works for me.