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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am looking for auxiliary tie rod recommendations for linking the steering of my Yami 9.9 to the steering of my Yami 175, which I steer from the driver’s console. I still want to retain the ability for steering the 9.9 from its motor handle for those tight applications where I might not want to tie it all to the driver’s console. At this point, I am not looking for a TR1, ipilot/Ulterra bow mount trolling motor or any other more complicated way you control trolling…just simple way to steer the trolling motor with the big motor steering. If there is one I have attached a photo of my current set up.

Thanks for the help In advance.

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I have almost the exact same set up as you, except my main is a 150 with Seastar steering. And trust me, if you tie the two motors together your gonna want throttle control up at the steering wheel.Im using the Controll King and IMO is a great, and affordable setup for the fishing we do out here. And Im not sure of the brand of tie bar I got, it came when I purchased my boat. but its basically a straight rod with two quick releases on each end and you undo one side and have control of the kicker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have almost the exact same set up as you, except my main is a 150 with Seastar steering. And trust me, if you tie the two motors together your gonna want throttle control up at the steering wheel.Im using the Controll King and IMO is a great, and affordable setup for the fishing we do out here. And Im not sure of the brand of tie bar I got, it came when I purchased my boat. but its basically a straight rod with two quick releases on each end and you undo one side and have control of the kicker.
ok I do have the Sea Star steering on the175. one vote for Control King For the throttle control. Thank you.
 

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I use the EZ- STEER system on the Arima with a 225 merc to a 15 hp kicker it consists of a rod with quick disconnects and brackets that attach to the motors so the steering rod is to the back side of motors Easy to Google and look it over, and I have a sea star steering set up on the small boat with a 90 Yamaha and a 9 hp kicker. This I had to make a few bends in the steering rod but it also has quick disconnects and works very well. It is attached to the front of the motors. This is easy to deal with and not as expensive if you have the room in front of your motors. Good luck
 

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My situation is a little different than yours, but we are doing the exact same thing. We have a Honda 90 and 8hp kicker on a center consol and got really tired of steering the kicker from the stern. I bought two of the Marinetech 55-5100 Balljoints (they come in a pack of two), a 3' piece of 3/8" stainless all thread and some of the heaviest, small stainless 'L' brackets I could find. I found a bolt just under the power head on both motors where I could bolt the short leg of the 'L' bracket and bolted the ball to the other end sticking out in front of the motors, just below the level of the tillers. I then measured the distance between the Balls and created a rod the correct length with the purchased Ball joints screwed onto both ends. The balls do not need to be aligned or even on the same plane, as you can bend the bar as needed. I just tried to get the 'Balls' at 90 degrees. It took a little playing with the length to get perfect pivoting, but once we had it down it works perfectly. Less than $50.00 total. SInce I don't want to bend/break anything when tilting the motors, we disconnect the spring loaded ball joint from the kicker before we tilt it and run. We leave it hooked to the main while we are running and can tilt the main with it attached. It takes seconds to tilt the kicker motor down and reattach.

AND, I absolutely recommend adding a Troll Master to your kicker. We have the wired version (no batteries to go dead-I think the Troll Master 3) and love the thing. A simple 15 minute install and you have immediate, infinite adjustment and control of your kicker RPM/speed from the helm. We've had ours 6 or 7 years without issues. It's a trolling game changer though. We really like the 'idle' button that instantly switches your motor into idle when fighting a fish then, when pushed again, returns to EXACTLY the speed (RPMs) you were previously. Also, absolutly no drift in RPMs unless you physically change it. We actually bought a 'referb' from TrollMaster with full warranty for much less than half of the Cabela's 'new' price. They were great to work with. You will wonder how you fished without one. It's really nice steering while trolling from the helm. jc Tuna Maru
 

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My situation is a little different than yours, but we are doing the exact same thing. We have a Honda 90 and 8hp kicker on a center consol and got really tired of steering the kicker from the stern. I bought two of the Marinetech 55-5100 Balljoints (they come in a pack of two), a 3' piece of 3/8" stainless all thread and some of the heaviest, small stainless 'L' brackets I could find. I found a bolt just under the power head on both motors where I could bolt the short leg of the 'L' bracket and bolted the ball to the other end sticking out in front of the motors, just below the level of the tillers. I then measured the distance between the Balls and created a rod the correct length with the purchased Ball joints screwed onto both ends. The balls do not need to be aligned or even on the same plane, as you can bend the bar as needed. I just tried to get the 'Balls' at 90 degrees. It took a little playing with the length to get perfect pivoting, but once we had it down it works perfectly. Less than $50.00 total. SInce I don't want to bend/break anything when tilting the motors, we disconnect the spring loaded ball joint from the kicker before we tilt it and run. We leave it hooked to the main while we are running and can tilt the main with it attached. It takes seconds to tilt the kicker motor down and reattach.

AND, I absolutely recommend adding a Troll Master to your kicker. We have the wired version (no batteries to go dead-I think the Troll Master 3) and love the thing. A simple 15 minute install and you have immediate, infinite adjustment and control of your kicker RPM/speed from the helm. We've had ours 6 or 7 years without issues. It's a trolling game changer though. We really like the 'idle' button that instantly switches your motor into idle when fighting a fish then, when pushed again, returns to EXACTLY the speed (RPMs) you were previously. Also, absolutly no drift in RPMs unless you physically change it. We actually bought a 'referb' from TrollMaster with full warranty for much less than half of the Cabela's 'new' price. They were great to work with. You will wonder how you fished without one. It's really nice steering while trolling from the helm. jc Tuna Maru
I have the wireless troll master and Am planning to switch to the hard wire version. The hand held wireless version is to problematic
 

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I use a steering rod on my 22’ NR Seahawk. 250 to 8 kicker. The key thing is you must have a quick disconnect to both motors. The first reason is that you will want to disconnect the main from the kicker when underway and not trolling or steerage of the main will be very difficult when the kicker is trimmed up. I just disconnect the main and leave the rod connected to the kicker on one end and set the other end on the offshore bracket.

Second you might need to disconnect the kicker to control the boat at the kicker as you mentioned as well as remove the rie rod for road travel. The other consideration is if the main connection point and the kicker connection point are on the same horizontal plane. If not you will need to bend the rod with a torch to get your bends precise. I bought this rod set up mostly for the connectors not the rod. The rod was too short as I needed to bend a different rod multiple times for it to reach from the main to a kicker mounted on a higher plane due to the hot water rinse bracket. It works perfectly. Oh and throttle control of the kicker at the helm is a must if you use this approach.
 

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I have the wireless troll master and Am planning to switch to the hard wire version. The hand held wireless version is to problematic
What we've found with the 'wired' version is that it is water proof and has worked flawlessly since the original installation even mounted on our center Console totally exposed to rain and seawater. We've been really happy with it. The only thing you have to remember to do is turn it off at the end of the day. A couple of times on multiple days of use when I've spaced it, we've had to resort to 'both batteries' on the Blue Sea switch to get the boat started the next morning :). Kind of makes me feel stupid and my wife loves to rub it in. I guess I could wire it to the ignition switch, but haven't gotten there yet. You'll get good service with the wired controller. Don't hesitate if concerned about service or durability. jc Tuna Maru
 

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In my opinion, just go with a Garmin kicker autopilot

I went through the same progression of half measures (tie bars, then tie bars plus trollmaster, etc), then finally bit the bullet and got the Garmin.

  • no need for disconnecting every time you make a run
  • throttle control is way more sensitive/adjustable than the trollmaster (in my experience)
  • steering from the remote has been life changing, the captain is no longer imprisoned at the helm or stern.
 

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In my opinion, just go with a Garmin kicker autopilot

I went through the same progression of half measures (tie bars, then tie bars plus trollmaster, etc), then finally bit the bullet and got the Garmin.

  • no need for disconnecting every time you make a run
  • throttle control is way more sensitive/adjustable than the trollmaster (in my experience)
  • steering from the remote has been life changing, the captain is no longer imprisoned at the helm or stern.
All good points, if you have a boat that can maintain speed and course with just the power and rudder of the kicker. My boat just can’t do it when there is current and or wind!

I experienced so much frustration early on trying to maintain speed and course just with the kicker manually. It was impossible! But when I deployed the main as a rudder big time improvement! So the cost of installing a Garmin or TR-1, when I knew it would be ineffective with no ROI made zero $. I would think that it could work only with a bow mounted trolling motor working in tandem but then there is all of that, and my simple tie rod solution just works and really is not that much hassle. There is always a second hand on board the can take the wheel if captain needs relief. And the captains chair is the most comfortable chair on deck!
 

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I use a steering rod on my 22’ NR Seahawk. 250 to 8 kicker. The key thing is you must have a quick disconnect to both motors. The first reason is that you will want to disconnect the main from the kicker when underway and not trolling or steerage of the main will be very difficult when the kicker is trimmed up. I just disconnect the main and leave the rod connected to the kicker on one end and set the other end on the offshore bracket.

Second you might need to disconnect the kicker to control the boat at the kicker as you mentioned as well as remove the rie rod for road travel. The other consideration is if the main connection point and the kicker connection point are on the same horizontal plane. If not you will need to bend the rod with a torch to get your bends precise. I bought this rod set up mostly for the connectors not the rod. The rod was too short as I needed to bend a different rod multiple times for it to reach from the main to a kicker mounted on a higher plane due to the hot water rinse bracket. It works perfectly. Oh and throttle control of the kicker at the helm is a must if you use this approach.
Your description of use is much more precise than mine was. It is exactly how we use the linkage bar too. You can actually buy just the 2 Stainless Ball Joint ends in a set of two from Marinetech. Their part number is: Marinetech 55-5100 Balljoints. Make sure you are buying the 'Saltwater' versions. I think they are about $20.00. If you can find a single, I would have a spare around as if the alignment isn't just perfect, you will get wear on the edges of the Ball Joint. In over 5 years of use, we have never had a failure, BUT..........just to be sure. jc Tuna Maru
 

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Not sure what type of steering you have but sea-star makes a tie-bar kit for Yamaha expensive but if its anything like the factory Honda kit I have its well worth the money.

Regardless of what you buy will have to reach over and disconnect it to operate the kicker manually.

I. Add


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I'm looking at going with the SeaStar cable kicker tie bar on two boats I'm working on this winter. You can pull one pin to disconnect it. I'll know more this spring on how it works once the new DF350 finally shows up, I hope. Considering the I troll for the throttle adjustment.
 

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I had to fabricate my own tie rod for my boat. I bought the stainless steel ends that have the mini balls that you bolt to the 2 motors. Then I bought the stainless steel all thread that goes into the 2 end pieces. After some careful measuring and tweeking, I bent the rod and put on the plastic cord cover. All and all, I spent about 75 bucks for it all. My next purchase will be a Garmin auto pilot for my kicker motor. I'm finding out that is a must have! 😁
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Not sure what type of steering you have but sea-star makes a tie-bar kit for Yamaha expensive but if its anything like the factory Honda kit I have its well worth the money.

Regardless of what you buy will have to reach over and disconnect it to operate the kicker manually.

I. Add

i do have the Sea Star steering and they do have a Yamaha package so I’m hoping that will be the ticket.



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