I do. Cheap insurance compared to what the gas cost. I use Stabil.

 

I would. I'd also run the motor for a few minutes and get the treated fuel in the engine.

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I do.

 

Use Stabol 360 or the new Chevron Marine for long term storage.

 

Always.

Don’t know the fuel system on your boat but you may be able to siphon the fuel and not have to get it pumped. I attach a length of fuel line at the bulb and over the back of the boat into 5 gallon cans. Pump the bulb a few times to get it flowing. Works great. If the boat’s tank has an anti-siphon valve, this won’t work.

 

I’ve been trying (bouncing between) Star Bright’s Star Tron Enzyme, Chevron Marine and I just dropped in a can of Seafoam Marine Pro after topping off my 75 gallon tank with non-ethanol premium. More often than not I’m spending $4 to $12 or 1-2 gallons of non-E gasoline per/fuel treatment since I buy them at Bi-Mart or Wal-Mart.

All (3) products seem to be doing a great job (no issues), but my mechanic said my fuel water separation filter was 1/2 full of water at my 200 HR service! The the old fuel/water separator filter didn’t have a clear plastic bowl, but the new filter does. Obviously I do the recommended maintenance schedule for my 2020 Suzuki DF200A and 9.9 EFI kicker motors.

Routine boat/motor/trailer (maintenance) isn’t cheap but you have to do everything you can to avoid a potential safety issue on the water/road in order to have a great time!

Hopefully I’ll continue to have good luck in the future! 🙏🏻🤞🏻🍀🛥⛽

 

Yes. And run the engines to circulate the treated fuel.

 

Yes. All gasoline breaks down over time when exposed to air, with some of the volatile chemicals evaporating and what is left behind slowly forming goo... E0 and E10 alike do this (the 10% Ethanol just has the added bonus of attracting water and all the fun that can ensue from that.)

A good fuel stabilizer bonds to that nasty oxidized fuel before it can form goo, converting it into stuff that can be burned by the engine. This works for a while (like over the winter), but it is not magic (leave it for a year plus and it doesn't matter whether you have stabilizer or not).

Not all stabilizers are created equal, and some are just dumb gimmicks. Watch some of the "Taryl Fixes All" Youtube videos testing stablizers in small engines to get a sense of this. I use Stabil 360 Marine or Chevron Techron Marine stabilizer in all my equipment (the Stabil does pretty well in testing, and both contain PEA fuel system cleaner as well).

 

I would definitely add a stabilizer and as others have said make sure you run it into the engines. All fuel starts to degrade as soon as it leaves the distiller. Both Stable Marine and Techron Marine have anti corrosion and now Seafoam Pro has it. Take your pick. I use them in all my gas powered equipment, some of which may set for months between uses.

I have also used regular Seafoam for years to make sure my fuel systems stay clean, and yes gas is supposed to have cleaners in it already which works fine for things like cars that are run frequently but for stored engines I think Seafoam improves the cleaning situation. It is great for two cycles that can build up carbon. There is a process for running it full strength through the air intake to clean out carbon....see instructions on the can. Two cycle out board mfgs use to recommend using a carbon cleaner every 50 hours. My chain saws run like new after I treat them with it.

One comment on E-10 gas. It does not "attract" moisture but is will absorb moisture in the tank up to about 3% by volume of the ethanol and that can be burned off in the engine virtually harmlessly. When the water exceeds the ability of the ethanol to absorb it is settles out as a "sludge" that WILL damage the engine and the remaining gas looses it's octane rating and is unsafe to use in any engine.

 

Stabil Marine 360 is about $10 at Walmart if I recall. Treats 200 gallons. 200 gallons cost roughly $1000. Hmmmm. Is ten bucks worth it?

 

What LGB says about E-10 is correct. Any fuel system that contains water should be running E-10 to clean it out. It may take several tanks if the problem is serious. If the fuel pick up tube is sucking water from the tank, it’s serious. Treating the fuel won’t fix it. I’d want to know how water is getting in the tank and fix that also. I had an Arima that collected water through the tank vents. A real chore getting that mess cleaned up.

 

"O" rings for gas caps are cheap. Replace them when you replace water pump impellers.

 

Don,
Where do you get an o ring that can withstand gas? I need one. I went to 2 auto part places and even the good Napa guys who are usually really helpful had no access to that O ring

 

PS. Isn’t a person supposed to run all the gas out of the kicker (carb)? I always thought that was the rule. Pull the fuel and run the kicker until it conks out.

 

Don’t run it until it “conks out”, just until it sputters. Fuel helps to lube the valves so yo don’t want it to go dry.

 

To carry the quicker question further, is it okay to reconnect the fuel line after running all the gas out of the kicker? Or, should it remain disconnected?

 

All O rings should be neoprene and not damaged by fuel. Can’t imagine NAPA would have anything else.

Carbs should be run dry, FI leave wet. I would connect the fuel line to keep everything clean.

 

 

I add fuel stabilizer to even ethanol free gas. It’s cheap insurance in my book.


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