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Discussion Starter #1
I was out on the big water some time ago and it was a little rough. :sick: Water was coming into the spill pan in the back of my Alumiweld Stryker. I noticed the water gushing through this gaping hole into the bottom of my boat. :mad:





What's up with this?
I plugged this hole with high-density foam cutting holes in it to feed the fuel lines and electrical cables through. I added two extra 3/4" hole in the transom to help drain water from the spilpan better.
Someone explain to me why Alumiweld would think this was a GOOD idea? :shrug:

[ 07-01-2003, 02:56 PM: Message edited by: Stryker ]
 

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Alumaweld seems to think ALL their ideas are good ones, and more holes in the boat is always better. IMO
 

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Maybe it wasn't intended to be a big water boat? :shrug:
 

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Too bad they can't put holes that big up front to drain their drop decks. They don't worry too much about getting water out, but they seem to be able to get it in pretty well.....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Originally posted by Salmonator:
Maybe it wasn't intended to be a big water boat? :shrug:
<font size="2" face="verdana,arial,helvetica">So they don't expect me to need to go in reverse, or take it off the trailer at a boat dock, or stop quickly, or go in the river, oh ya avoid other boats wake, or perhaps I need to stand over it with a umbrella. :shrug:

The boat is wonderful on the ocean and I have no other concerns (yet) with the boat. Even this is not a big deal but I just "don't get it".
I did add two more ¾” holes to the front deck as well.
 

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You probably could have ordered the boat with a full transom. The cut-out drops the motor so it is a shorter profile and not as much in the way. It looks good, but it is also a big hole in the transom that allows water over the top. Make sure your bilge works.

It's not out of the question to have them fill the transom and raise the motor (and drop the pump). It won't be free or even inexpensive, but you will have a little a little more peace of mind.
 

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Originally posted by Stryker:
So they don't expect me to need to go in reverse, or take it off the trailer at a boat dock, or stop quickly, or go in the river, oh ya avoid other boats wake, or perhaps I need to stand over it with a umbrella. :shrug:
<font size="2" face="verdana,arial,helvetica">If you take in water doing all those things then I'm pretty sure it was never intended to be a big water boat. Didn't mean it as the way you took it, more of a short-sight on ALUMAWELDS part. How big is your boat anyways?
 

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The folks at Alumaweld probably thought if more water came over the stern than their drainholes could handle, it was being poured into the bilge and that the pump would handle it. :whazzup:

But I agree, I think a better idea is to do what "Stryker" did...cut another couple of drain holes in the stern and also in the bow drop deck area.

Jeez..... yet another project! Thanks, Stryker! :rolleyes:

Good job on the observation, and a darn good remedy... Cudos from another Stryker owner.... :bowdown: :cheers:

Tim :cool:
 

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Just out of curiousity - are most boats designed for rougher, big water equipped with a cut down transom? Regardless it is good you noticed this flaw and solved the problem.

This is also the difference between a $24k boat and a $30K boat. Little things like gasketing that hole, rounding the welds smooth, pre-drilled holes in the dash to accomodate electronics, etc..

[ 07-01-2003, 04:59 PM: Message edited by: Gr8waves ]
 

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Originally posted by Stryker:
Someone explain to me why Alumiweld would think this was a GOOD idea? :shrug:
<font size="2" face="verdana,arial,helvetica">it probly saved them money, they didnt have to buy a second boot to run the cables thru and probly used shorter cables and fuel line, its a money thing.
 

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What no R&D? What ever happened to build it, try it, modify it, then sell it?
 

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C'mon, give them a break. They haven't been in the business very long :rolleyes:
 

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Want a stern built for big water? Start with 1/4" aluminum all the way around and no extruded chine. Here is one in the making:



That is my nephew Ryan standing at the stern of my Edwing boat in the making. He is 6'1" and the stern is resting on the ground, for reference.

Next Ed's guys will weld an offshore bracket about 1/3 the way up the stern extending 24" beyond the stern (like a swim platform). Then engine will be mounted to the offshore bracket providing an additional lifting surface, additional flotation, and a full height transom that is two feet from the back of the boat. By the way, the deck is higher than the waterline allowing for scuppers and a self bailing boat.

No plugs, no bilge pump! :dance:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The boat is a 19' w/90Hp Honda and 8Hp Honda kicker.
I have had it the ocean in combined seas of 8 and never got water in the boat just in the spill pan. It drained very well. :sick: I added an automatic switch to the bilge.

I pick my days in the ocean carefully. I’m careful to watch conditions and will head back to shore if I feel things are turning.

SAFETY FIRST!!!!
 

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Stryker, have you talked to Alumaweld about that? What did they say?
 

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My 1990 V-Sled has the exact same opening. I have never had enough water come over the back to pour through the opening, but I have 2 fuel lines, power cables for an electric trollin motor, wiring for my fish finder, plus all the wiring for my motor running through the hole. Not a lot of room for the water to go through. Straight below that, there is a cutout in the floor that dumps straight into the bilge. If water did dump through, it would go straight in the bilge, and be pumped out. I don't really see it as a problem...I see it as an excuse to run my bilge pump. :grin:
 

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Alumaweld routes the control cables, battery cables, and fuel lines through that rigging hole because of the flotation issue that exists with boats under 20'. Having 2 four strokes probably adds to the effect of slop over your transom. With a 20" saddle cut transom that's a pretty shallow transom for big water situations. Look into a riser and bay kit for your motor this will solve your problem. You can also have a full motor well fabbed for your transom ( personally I would go with the riser and bay kit). On the new Strykers (02-present) you don't have the center drain. The new models have a rigging tube routed off of the starboard side. Hope this helps....
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Originally posted by onstep:
You can also have a full motor well fabbed for your transom ( personally I would go with the riser and bay kit).
<font size="2" face="verdana,arial,helvetica">Do you have info on who to talk to about the "riser and bay kit"?
 
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