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Anyone have a idea of cost helped th the neighbor dig up part of the water main it was about2 foot in the ground replaced about 6 foot of 3\4 galvanized. Pip that had big hole in it hooked up turned on water you could watch three more leak pop needs New pipe from metre to house 40 feet any suggestions or recommendations thanks
 

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Roto rooter bought out the company I used many years ago. Trenchless, under a driveway, up into the garage…$2,500.

Galvanized is fine for coated electrical as conduit, not for water.
 

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Prices will very a bunch on location and obstacles.
I was hired by an Architect friend that had a couple dozen investment properties in the N Bay ,in Ca .From meter to crawl space .Everyone had a concrete sidewalk ,walkway and concrete porch .The homes were built in late 50’s to about 1961.
Some had the waste line in the same trench
Or they were stacked .Waste lines and water service lines were failing , collapsing, filled with roots etc.My complete jobs were 8k to 12K with permits .It snowballed from his jobs to neighbors ,they all wanted to keep up with the Joneses ,the could not stand to be one upped by Frank next door 😳😂.We installed sch120 , and sch.80 DWV with SS Couplings .We found some clay pipe , concrete transite and Cast iron with rope and lead filled bell ends .Roots invaded the joints .Water service were copper or Galvanized 1” .We did horizontal drill if we could .Landscaping is another obstacle 😳😡😂.Glad they are old homes with overhead power ,bout the only thing that was not in the way .
 

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It all depend on length, where your located. If there’s a basement and they have to bust through the concrete wall it’ll be more expensive. It’s probably been 5-6 years for me since I’ve done this. Don’t do any residential work anymore, I’d guess today your looking at minimum of 3k. We had a company we used to bore the new water line in then we would connect Back onto the water meter and inside. Whether it was in the crawl space or basement.
 

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Galvanized pipe is very old news. Use PVC or another plastic and you’ll never look back. We’ve dug a lot of plastic pipe up that’s been in the ground foe many years (decades) and except for Iron and mineral stain on some it looked practically brand new. I’m pretty sure that this modern plastic pipe will last forever. Just sayin:)🇺🇲
 

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And check out a trencher rental. In Portland, there is basically no frost depth. Trench down to just above the galvanized and match up with 45's. If you have to cut and thread the old galvanized where you meet up with the new pvc, that isn't too big of a job. When I built my house I did all of the external plumbing, from well to storage tank to booster pumps/pressure tank and to the house, shutoffs, plus all the frost-proof outdoor faucets. I even hand-dug the trenches for my gutter drains and put in the pvc for those. It really isn't that bad--if you have the time.
 

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And check out a trencher rental. In Portland, there is basically no frost depth. Trench down to just above the galvanized and match up with 45's. If you have to cut and thread the old galvanized where you meet up with the new pvc, that isn't too big of a job. When I built my house I did all of the external plumbing, from well to storage tank to booster pumps/pressure tank and to the house, shutoffs, plus all the frost-proof outdoor faucets. I even hand-dug the trenches for my gutter drains and put in the pvc for those. It really isn't that bad--if you have the time.
Wrong, 24”’depth minimum for water services in and around most of Portland as far as plumbing codes are concerned.
 

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Replacing a water line from meter to house is not difficult especially if it is a straight line run. Very important to call for utility locates before starting. Easy to hit other utility lines that you may not be aware of also especially in the utility easements area. Not all utility lines are overhead. Think gas lines. You may find also that the sewer line is below the water line in the same trench. Once your locates are complete and if your trench is a straight shot then determine what replacement pipe you want to use. Poly pipe is good because you can easily put it into a curved trench and have no connections between the meter and house. Down side, over time you may develop leaks at those connections where the pipe clamps are installed. May be the same problem with Pec over time. If you use PVC each joint over time is a potential leak point. One of the problems with PVC is how long did it sit out in the hot sun before it was put into the ground. Most hardware stores like Home Depot or other plumbing supply have all there pipe stored outdoors and maybe have a few pieces inside. The hot sun over time can make the pipe more brittle from my experience. I personally would use schedule 80 as its a thicker wall than 40 and doesn’t seem to be affected as much. 80 is also for a higher pressure application but can be used for any.
As someone mentioned before about a pressure reducing valve at the meter, call the water provider and have them do a water pressure test (usually at no cost) then you will know if the regulator is needed or not. Make sure you have a water shut off valve on your side of the meter.
The reason for the 2’ depth of the water line is to prevent it from freezing and also to prevent from crushing if driven over by something heavy or something placed over it that is heavy.
Try to make your new trench as flat as possible the whole run will help. PVC is somewhat flexible but if to roll poly can cause more potential for break because the ground pressure on the pipe will be varied and potentially a problem especially regarding your base rock and backfill material.
Dint mean to highjack but trying to be helpful. Almost 30 years working in Public Works in water and sanitary sewers. Just some things to think about.
It really is very doable to replace by homeowner. You may want to check out YouTube as it has had many videos of things of this nature.
Good luck with your project.
 
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