Here's how I fishem. Works great for me. 2/0 big River Hooks

 

I prefer your top example with 3/0 BRB hooks. 2/0 on the mini's

 

Plugs - is that a piece of fly tubing between the beads? That’s a great idea. I’m stealing that. I was using multiple beads to get the hooks back there but I like this better. Especially for when i use the mini-cutplugs for Kokanee.


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Looks like tubing; just as I have on the 2nd and 4th Super Bait in my first image. I tried it with kokanee plugs but I think they use it as leverage and my hook to boat ratio dropped a bit. I don’t use it anymore for the kokanee plugs.

 

On my cut plugs I run a 6 bead chain with a short tube and only a single hook so the eye of the hook is even with the rear of the plug. I find the single hook allows for better action and I can't complain about my hook up percentage.

 

This is how I've tied them for years for several reasons:
I think the tubes/beads add unnecessary weight (restricting movement) and are too complex.
I switch my leaders between all varieties of superbaits and this setup allows me to adjust the setback quickly and accurately.
Easy to tie. If you put a hook in the garage your other hooks have to be spaced right to get the right setback.
My hookup to land ratio (everyone defines this differently. For me it's picking up a rod with an attached fish to landing said fish) is 85 to 95%.

Here's also how I store my gear which makes it easy to re rig any of the superbaits quickly and easily.
I store them unrigged in a B & B Bait Box. Best storage system out there!
My leaders are stored in Pips Boxes by length (36, 42, 48, and 54) which allows me the ability to rig and rerig at a known (and repeatable length).
I think leader length is one of the biggest variables when fishing just about everything. Your ability to quickly adjust and repeat this is critical.

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Good post. I like fishing these lures with herring pieces in the cavity.

 

I actually just swapped all of mine over to the bobber stop and single bead with 3/0 grabber hooks for Super Baits and large cut plugs. I’ll be doing the same with the mini and kokanee plugs but dropping down to 2/0 and 1/0 hooks respectively. I was actually cutting all of the old hooks off when the idea came to snap a picture of them.

Definitely going to be better prepared this year with an assortment of extra pretied hooks ready to be used.

I really like those leader caddy’s; haven’t seen those before. I’ve never been excited with the foam boards as my leaders seem to develop kinks in them.

 

How come you guys don't utilize the little carport behind the garage? Seems like it would make for a tighter spin.

 

A) two 3/0 hooks tied with bait loop with the rubber band looped i to the bait loop and line skipping the small hole in back

I use this method a lot with the hooks tied slightly closer. I prefer to keep the top hook close to the body of the plug, many ways to accomplish that. I do use the "Carport" for exactly that reason. I do not like the hooks swinging away from the plug, keep'em tight.

 

I can post pics of all tied up sitting here. The last two lines of above however sums it up. Hooks close to each other and closer to body. Top hook...shank buried in cavity in belly if plastic...can put a lil tubing on shank of hook before pushing it in cavity..so as hook don't flip to side and lay flat on plastic body..thus lessening the open hook area for bite....the trailing hook I usually bury the mono under the rubber band use to close mouth of bait and let hook dangle maybe 1/2" below the tapered end of plastic...solid hook up!

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What type leader material and strength? As for trolling speed for Coho I try to maintain 3 MPH. You guys? and I'm running a diver with a Simon flasher. How about you Guys?

 

Simon makes a flasher??? It's not about the MPH. It's all in the thump--- 1-1000-2-1000 3-1000
At 3 mph I turn around and head the other direction.

 

I could be wrong about the flasher being a "Simon". It was given to me by a guide friend close to 20 years ago. Its an oval shaped tin thing about 4" long with a crease across the middle, some dimples in a "V" and an orange dot. I've got the skate boards, etc. just decided to go light and try something different.

 

I don’t pay close attention to speed. If running 360’s, it’s the thump in the rod. If running triangles, I try for 45 degrees on line angle.

I am still a newbie on the big C and am experimenting with my gear. I have some P-Line 40lb fluoro for my full size cut plugs and super baits, s9me 40 lb Maxima Ultra mono for the mini size cut plugs and spinners I’ve made and the drop to 25 lb Maxima mono for the kokanee sized cut plugs. I was a little late to the tackle aisles, so my pickings were slim.

 

I love threads like this! all are great looking setups! appears the 2 hook rigging is the unanimous favorite here.
Thought I would throw mine in for sh*ts and giggles. I left the tandem hook setup behind 6 or so years ago in favor of this and never looked back. Rarely do we have a fish come off like this even with inexperienced people on the rod which makes it very nice especially with kids. Cool stuff thanks to all for sharing!

 

I really like the simplicity of this set-up, especially the ease of only tying one basic knot to the swivel instead of having to snell 2 hooks on the same leader and trying to get the spacing consistent; plus it's easier to be able to just swap out a hook on the swivel using the open-eye version BRB or equivalent and simply offset the bend w/ pliers instead of using the octopus style w/ the closed eye.

 

I've only used the Brads a few times, but I find it interesting that none of the rigging shows the leader thru the hole at the back of the plug. difficult to tell for sure, but doesn't look like many have the leader under the rubber band either, something we usually do.
ron m

 

My reasoning for what it's worth....
For me it's about spin. I want the Brad's to spin on the leader as much as possible and the swivel as a backup.
Putting the hooks through the rubber band reverses that. It no longer allows the bait to spin on the leader. All of your spin is through the swivel. Plus the hooks stay where I need them to be without securing them.
The back hole is the same thing. The more points of contact the more friction occurs and hence a slower spin

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Actually, the top blue/yellow cut plug in my second photo I posted has the rubber band secured in the bait loop on the hook. Hard to see from that picture but it is secured. With the hook secured, I never thought it would be necessary to use the small carport loop on the back.

I haven’t paid close enough attention to the spin; guess I need to get out more and mess with the gear.

 

FatRap, in photo #1 looks like open eye sickle style crimped on barrel swivel?

 

Yes barrel swivel and agreed it makes swapping out hooks pretty easy, I use #40 lb leader as well so don't normally worry about leader nicked up at the hook it's covered by tubing for the most part.

 

I have a couple questions for all,

how do you all run your drag when fishing supers? I know some pep who prefer fairly loose and others who crank it down, I am in the latter category

Determining leader lengths do you measure to the end of super / hook setup or where the line just contacts the superbait?

 

I prefer to run loose. I like to give that fish a little time to run and set the hook. It also gives me a bit of time to clear the rods too. If I'm fishing solo I'll pull my other rod, get it in the rocket launchers, and pull the downriggers (if I'm using them) before even touching the rod with the fish on it.
The one exception to this is when I'm fishing in a crowded environment. In that case I'll run the drag tight to reduce the interference with other fisherman.

Measuring leaders always varies person to person. I always measure mine from the eye of the top hook to the knot at the swivel. I guess the biggest thing is to be consistent with yourself. Everyday I record what I was using and the leader length so I can find it later.
Personally I think leader length is a bigger factor than color when it comes to superbaits. So often I see people change from color A to color B without changing leader length. That's why I dislike pretied superbaits that sit on a leader board. It encourages you to utilize the same length every time.
All of my superbaits are stored unrigged in a B&B bait box and the leaders are stored in Pips Boxes (36, 42, 48, 54, and 'no set length') with the bobber stops and beads all ready to go. Slide the super on and with a quick palomar you're ready to go.
*hint* best way to tie a specific leader length is to pinch a bend into the leader at the length you want to tie. When you tie the palomar you want the bend to secure right behind the 'collar' of the knot. It'll get you the same leader length to under 1/8th of an inch every time and makes retieing beat up leaders really quick.

 

A lot of copy cats out there... Lol

Since going back to barbed (upper C) I have gone back to 3/0 siwash on swivel for the originals. I run almost zero full size cuts but Would rig them the same.

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Ok, I'll bite. How do you get the tubing to match the curve of the Super Bait belly?

 

In short, it just does it. It's pretty flexible surgical style stuff. In the water the bait still rotates around the hook.

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