Most people who use a Spectra based line for the first time have trouble tying proper knots. There is a big difference between the mild take down of sturgeon compared to the high speed drive-bys that ocean fishing offers.
I have no doubt that someone will inform me as to how wrong they think I am.
Did you hook a BIG fish?? #30lb tuff or #30lb mono ...either way it's #30lb strength. Never had a problem with the salt before and I always rinse the rods and reels with the hose at home after hittin the salt. Is your tuff line old? :shrug:
What about the rod guides..(eyes) cracked ceramics are murder on all lines.
I've noticed that after a season or two, my Tuff line starts getting abraided. I've only noticed on the black and white version, not the solid white, green or yellow. I've had a couple line failures with the speckled line and have switched to the solid white stuff on the reels that had the black and white. The easy quick fix is cut the first 30 feet or so, the abraided part, off your reel.
I have several reels I use tuff line on. One has line thats about 3 or 4 years old the other is only 2 years. I always take the old line off and throw it away. Then I take the 2 year old line from one reel and swap to the other by winding the line that has been on the outside to the inside on the other reel. Then I only have to buy new line for one reel. :whazzup: I hope that makes sense. I have had good luck doing this and never had any problems.
I've used both tuff line and tuf line plus. I have a some problems with the standard tuff fraying, espcially in anodized guides - not so much with ceramic guides. I have had literally no problem with tuff line plus. Also, you might want to check your reel and guides to see if you have a spot that might be abrading the line.
*** Clerk may be on the right track. The knots for TuffLine are somewhat more specific than that for mono. If you where not aware of this, maybe a fishing friend or a sales clerk at fishermans can demo the right knot for you. If you did know this, than I'm not sure. I've run the stuff for some time now and have had absolutely no failures at all. Good Luck
ORS. is right on this one check your guides for a nick or crack
use a magnifying glass,
also pulling line off your reel can be a big problem as the guide for the level wind fairlead has a sharp edge on it.
Always pull the line straight out the front toward the first guide.
I have some line 30# tuff that i use bottom fishing that is 10 years old, like capt. hook I am to poor to buy a new line.
I had the same problem this year with tuff line.
I was reading everyones threds on how great it was so I marched down to the local fishermans store and had it put on two reels. :dance: the only problem was they forgot to tell me you have to use
certin types of knots when you tie up you tackle.
I went through about $100.00 worth of gear before
I found out about the knots.
I have not lost any gear since, but then again I have not hooked any fish either. :hoboy: check your knots.
Only problem I've encountered was busting off a 25lb. Chinook on 17lb. Power Pro in the Samish River at low tide (4ft. deep 15ft. across -you get the picture). The reason I KNOW it was 25lb. was 5 min. later the guy next to me catches it with my terminal gear in its mouth & weighed it on the dig. scale.
Frankly I absolutely love the stuff. And thanks for the tip for recycling it onto another reel. I think I owe you money.
You've probably noticed how some old reliable knots slip with Tufline. Clinch knots have to be doubled (two loops through the eye of whatever you're tieing to instead of one). I got so used to doubling them that I use the double for mono too out of habit, and I think the break strength is better for both. Try butting two unlike lines together with what I think is called a double surgeon's knot (6 loops per side). Works for me when I want to add a little monofilament stretch to Fireline to ease a summer steelhead slam. I'd post a website page I've used before, but now it gives me a "forbidden" message.
The easiest knot I've found is the ol double clinch knot. Just pass the main through the hole twice forming a small loop and wrap normally at least 7 times put through the loop. Been using tuff for years and have never had a knot fail.
Sorry, I should have provided more information. First, I tie a pretty mean "Palomar" knot. No knot failures since I started using it.
The first gear failure was probably my fault. I'm used to fighting sturgeon on heavier gear, and I probably put the screws to that Chinook a little harder than I should have. The funny thing was that the mainline broke even though I was using lighter leader.
After the first line break, FM2 pulled out his fancy little knot tying tool and whipped up a super-duper-foolproof knot. A little while later he was using my rod, and he busted the line off fighting a little ling cod. That's what made me question the affects of salt water on tuff line.
The line is the dark green (Tuff-Plus?), and it's about 2 years old. I will try the suggestion about reversing the line onto another reel. Makes sense to use the other end of the line for a while
Thanks for all of your input. At least I won't be afraid to use Tuff-line in salt again. Maybe next time I'll take one of my reels loaded with 50 or 65# in case I try to muscle the fish again.
I had the same problem on trip this season. I use 60# tuffline, and have landed big fish with it no problem. Then earlier this season on an ocean Coho trip, I lost two complete rigs just ABOVE the knot. Our conclusion is that the line was twisting while trolling(I use the "fish flash" that spins), causing the line to break. We don't think that the swivel was able to keep up with the spinning of the flasher and the tuffline doesn't seem to resist twisting well. We have gone back to mono for trolling, for that reason, but we still use tuffline in the river.