We just use a piece of all-thread that is bent to go around the various cables and hoses with female quick release ends on it. The male studs are mounted to the kicker and the main motor. The benefit to this set-up is that there is a matching stud attached under the downrigger plate and a second straight rod is used to keep the big motor from moving while trailering.
Relatively inexpensive, around $20.00, and you can customize it to your needs. The most expensive part of the whole thing are the studs. I can post pics later tonight if you want.
I picked up something similar to what Shark Bait described for $20-30 from a local marina. I simply bent the rod to get the distance and shape I needed. Works great and less expensive than the ones that strap below the powerhead. Now if I could only find something to control the throttle for the kicker from up front I'd be set.
Bought a Stearns E-Z Steer last year, I love it if I have lots of room. It can be on & off in seconds from inside the boat. It just snaps over a bolted stud on each motor. In stainless steel about $50 at fishermans. Trolling speed has to be manually adfjusted. :cheers:
Fisherman's has the QD Ball ends. They were somewhere around $13.00 per pair last summer and for this set-up you will need three males and four females. Right now the rods are not stainless, but they haven't rusted even though they are stored in the splashwell. I just keep them well lubed with WD-40. Total cost $40.00. Your results may vary. :smile:
Here is a close-up of the QD ends:
Here is the rod that connects the main motor to the kicker. If you decide to go this route make sure that you slip some 3/8" hose over the allthread to prevent the threads from cutting/wearing any of the control lines. The arrows point out that this application required that one male be mounted up and the other down. Note the bend to clear the controls:
Finally. For towing we whipped up this rod that uses the same main motor mount as the kicker steering rod, but it connects to another male stud mounted of the downrigger plate. No more annoying bungee cords or expensive motor damage.
That's exactly the information I was looking for. Looks pretty simple enough that I can do it. The hose around the treaded rod sounds good and with a little silicon sealant should waterproof it. Even if I just paint the rods, that will keep the rust off enough to get by. Thanks again.