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One of my trailer bunks snapped in the middle and is in need of replacement. I might as well replace both while I'm at it. They are treated 9' 2x6 wrapped in carpet.

Thoughts on doing this myself or should I just make it easy and buy. If buying, is there a local source?

Also, seems like there'd be a better material than wood to use these days though the composite materials I'm thinking of aren't stiff enough.

Love to hear some thoughts on this.

Thx!

-Chris
 

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Made my own 2 years ago, 2x6 with carpet. Also you may want to research what happens when you use treated wood in that situation there is some kind of chemical reaction from what I read.
 

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Yeah ditch the treated wood. Buy some Doug Fir from Parr Lumber. Carpet from CE Smith. Staple gun and stainless steel staples. Done. Find a empty boat ramp to swap them out.

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Yeah ditch the treated wood. Buy some Doug Fir from Parr Lumber. Carpet from CE Smith. Staple gun and stainless steel staples. Done. Find a empty boat ramp to swap them out.

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I would add, be picky on the Doug Fir find the best tightest grain you can and not use green wood. I would also use outdoor carpet glue such as Roberts 6700 on the planks it helps waterproof the wood. Also, upgrading the job with poly wrap around pads they will keep the wet salty carpet from direct contact with the aluminum hull, that is if your boat is aluminum, if not I would not.
 

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Take a magnet with you when buying the stainless staples. I have bought a box, someone swapped the stainless for regular staples, cheap thief. Years ago when I had wood bunks, I used outdoor carpet from Home Despot. Just have them cut what you need off the roll.
 

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Depending on how long you expect to keep the boat and trailer the fir wood/carpet is fine but for longer lasting you might consider high density poly possibly backed up by aluminum or galvanized metal channel. Here is one web site I found that sells it. The Ultimate Bunk Board Replacement Solution It has the HDP with aluminum backing (4"X 3/4" X 9') for $309.00 Less with out the aluminum.
 

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I would add, be picky on the Doug Fir find the best tightest grain you can and not use green wood. I would also use outdoor carpet glue such as Roberts 6700 on the planks it helps waterproof the wood. Also, upgrading the job with poly wrap around pads they will keep the wet salty carpet from direct contact with the aluminum hull, that is if your boat is aluminum, if not I would not.
Good advice.
Ask for KD Douglas Fir (kiln dried).
And pick it out yourself, checking for minimum crown and minimum bow (pick straight boards).
I like the glue idea (waterproof, outdoor type) and then finish locking it in with SS staples.
Rent the staple gun if need be.
 

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I did a replacement on my trailer and broke down and bought an electric staple gun. Think it was about $30 but it sure saved my hands from squeezing a manual stapler a couple hundred times. Money well spent.
 

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If you want to get all fancy with it, do the UHMW or plastic bunks. I was going to go this route, as I didn't want wet carpet always touching my hull. I noticed that I have the plastic caps every foot or so, so no need to replace yet.
 
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If it's an aluminum boat, carpet would not be on my list of options (especially with pressure treated wood). Wet/salty carpet is not something you want touching your boat, and many pressure treated options contain copper, which will destroy your hull with enough contact.

Wood with glides or UHMW.
 

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I replaced mine a couple years ago, went with steel instead - I’ll never have to replace them.

C6x8.2x 10ft- pre-drilled the holes for mounting 1/2” HDPE pads and the bunk brackets and then had them hot dip galvanized. A bit of a project but they are super strong and will only have to do it once.
 

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2x6 pressure treated with 1/2" U.H.M.W runners. Use stainless steel counter sunk bolts.
Works perfect and the hull never touches the 2x6. Been on the trailer for many years.

fop
 
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