[Wild Chrome]

Spare Link,
I think it depends a lot on the hole you're fishing. I find casting upstream works well when you're fishing a slot that concentrates the fish, like above or below a rapid or along a ledge. A lot of these places may not be fishable from the side or above. Also, in a deep slot, it's sometimes easier to keep the spinner near the bottom when casting from below because the current's not pulling it up off the bottom. Use a lighter spinner (like a Blue Fox), let it drop, and retrieve just a bit faster than the current: just enough to get the blade going. In wider runs, where the fish may spread out, a more traditional, slightly upstream cast and then swing works better. Cast, step (downstream). Cast, step. Kind off like steelhead fly-fishing. Hardware works really well in these areas because it covers the water faster than other methods. You're looking for aggressive fish that will chase the spinner down before biting. No need to smack him in the face with spinners (unless it's freezing cold). Under normal conditions, you can usually step 5-10 feet between casts and still cover the water well. Reel if you need to keep the blade spinning, but once the spinner starts swinging, you often don't need to reel. You want to feel a slow, but steady thump-thump-thump.

Ultimately, whatever method gets a spinning blade in front of a biter will work best.

 

[Cohoangler]

In his book, Jed Davis highly recommends making your own spinners because if you're using them correctly, you're gonna lose alot of them. So don't be afraid to put them close to structure, and along the bottom. That's how you get strikes. But, as we all know, that's how you lose them too.

I can make a silver plated or a gold-plated spinner for less than half the price of a store-bought nickel plate. That's not an exaggeration.

 

[rangr]

Like Cohoangler said, if you fish spinners correctly you are going to lose plenty of them, so making your own spinners makes good sense. Not only that, it's a nice way to spend a winter evening in front of the woodstove while you dream of all the fish you're going to catch with them.

The mention of cost started me to thinking about what it costs me to make a spinner. There are variables, most notably the hook used, but as near as I can tell my spinners with #5 silver blades cost me about 59 cents apiece. At that price I can carry a couple boxes of them and not worry about losing a few lures, and occasionally I will give away spinners to other fishermen who ask what I'm using.

I saw a quote once regarding fly tying that expressed the appeal of fishing with something that you've created with your own hands. I can't quote it exactly, but the gist of it was that the man who caught a trout on a fly that he personally had tied, had counted coup not once, but twice. For me both the pleasure of fishing the spinner and the satisfaction of catching fish using that lure are enhanced.

Making your own spinners gives you complete creative control, you can make pretty much anything you can dream up. That being said my number one spinner for steelhead and salmon is exactly the same as West Linn's: black body and silver blade. It's basic, but it works.

 

[West Linn Wader]

I gotta see what a 59 cent #5 genuine silver-bladed spinner looks like Would love to see a pic.

The exact spinner that I was referring to uses a marine brass blank .032 thickness plated in genuine white silver. That blade alone is over a buck (my cost) but is worth every penny to me because it gives me the confidence that I am using the very best spinner I can possibly obtain. I've gotten pretty good at not losing very many...which is good. Catching fish on your own stuff is a great feeling but I would still want the confidence that I was using the best components I could get. IMO we spend way too much time and money on other stuff (vehicles, boats licenses, gas, rods/reels and other gear) to not use the best components on the only things the fish actually see :wink:

Like Cohoangler said, if you fish spinners correctly you are going to lose plenty of them, so making your own spinners makes good sense. Not only that, it's a nice way to spend a winter evening in front of the woodstove while you dream of all the fish you're going to catch with them.

The mention of cost started me to thinking about what it costs me to make a spinner. There are variables, most notably the hook used, but as near as I can tell my spinners with #5 silver blades cost me about 59 cents apiece. At that price I can carry a couple boxes of them and not worry about losing a few lures, and occasionally I will give away spinners to other fishermen who ask what I'm using.

I saw a quote once regarding fly tying that expressed the appeal of fishing with something that you've created with your own hands. I can't quote it exactly, but the gist of it was that the man who caught a trout on a fly that he personally had tied, had counted coup not once, but twice. For me both the pleasure of fishing the spinner and the satisfaction of catching fish using that lure are enhanced.

Making your own spinners gives you complete creative control, you can make pretty much anything you can dream up. That being said my number one spinner for steelhead and salmon is exactly the same as West Linn's: black body and silver blade. It's basic, but it works.

 

[FishOnShawn]

Yea not sure how guys are building $.60 or less spinners with silver. The blades I get are not quite a buck apiece but close and brass bodies are also near a $1. Id say most of my spinners come close to if not $2+ including hooks....but still thats with good quality components and a heavier better spinner than what your going to buy in a store for $4-$5. Not saying store bought ones are bad either, I fish blue foxes a bit also. They all have thier time and place.

 

[rangr]

Since you asked, here is my 59 cent spinner.

Blade is .025 brass (15 cents each) that I silver plated using instructions from Jed Davis' book. If I used .032 brass it would add 4 cents to the cost of a blade.

Body is lead, poured in a walleye walking sinker mold and powder painted. I have a few hundred lbs of lead for pouring sinker, jig heads, and a variety of handgun bullets. The lead was about 20 cents per lb so the cost of a body is less than a penny. At today's prices it would be closer to a nickel.

.031 wire, 1/8" bead, and #3 clevis are purchased online, 15 or 20 cents total.

Hook is whatever you want to throw on there that you have confidence in, and costs vary widely. The Matzuo sickle hook is new to me, just something I want to try out this year.

Add it all up, throw in a little for paint and silver plate solution amortized over many pieces and that is the number I came up with.

 

[FishOnShawn]

Since you asked, here is my 59 cent spinner.

Blade is .025 brass (15 cents each) that I silver plated using instructions from Jed Davis' book. If I used .032 brass it would add 4 cents to the cost of a blade.

Body is lead, poured in a walleye walking sinker mold and powder painted. I have a few hundred lbs of lead for pouring sinker, jig heads, and a variety of handgun bullets. The lead was about 20 cents per lb so the cost of a body is less than a penny. At today's prices it would be closer to a nickel.

.031 wire, 1/8" bead, and #3 clevis are purchased online, 15 or 20 cents total.

Hook is whatever you want to throw on there that you have confidence in, and costs vary widely. The Matzuo sickle hook is new to me, just something I want to try out this year.

Add it all up, throw in a little for paint and silver plate solution amortized over many pieces and that is the number I came up with.

Well played sir, well played. Very good looking spinner. Ever think of selling some

 

[rangr]

Well played sir, well played. Very good looking spinner. Ever think of selling some

Thank you for the kind words. The name of the game is finding what catches fish, and I just like to tinker with things that I think might eventually bring me closer to that end.

No I haven't given serious thought to selling spinners, I'll leave that for West Linn and others. I do get asked quite often though. The last time was a couple weeks ago while fishing a coastal stream for fall chinook. After a couple days of seeing me catch fish when others were not, he asked if he could buy a spinner from me. I looked him in the eye and told him no. He had already turned and was walking away before I had a chance to finish my sentence: "But I'll give you one!" Another fisherman there just laughed, the day before I had given him a spinner too, just like the one I was using. That gives me more satisfaction than the few dollars I might make trying to sell them.



i

 

[Bankbound]

Make that body green in a #3 size and you are money. If I only had one lure to use ever that might be it. Nice work!


MH

 

[West Linn Wader]

Well played sir, well played. Very good looking spinner. Ever think of selling some

I didn't say it couldn't be done...just wanted to see one, especially what the body looked like. Not bad at all. Lead is definitely cheaper by far over brass. We've looked at using it and still may to offer it as a heavier spinner option but for a few reasons we could never sub it completely for brass. Doing silver at home can be challenging to get a good & consistent plate but yours is definitely one of the better I've seen. For the money the Matzuo hook is pretty darn good IMO. Very sharp out of the box and most of the past issues with eyes being brittle have been resolved. I don't even bother to sharpen mine. I just rebuild with new when I get home.

That gives me more satisfaction than the few dollars I might make trying to sell them. i

I give a ton of spinners away too. Just a taster...they'll be back!

 

[KalamaGeo]

Since you asked, here is my 59 cent spinner.

Blade is .025 brass (15 cents each) that I silver plated using instructions from Jed Davis' book. If I used .032 brass it would add 4 cents to the cost of a blade.

Body is lead, poured in a walleye walking sinker mold and powder painted. I have a few hundred lbs of lead for pouring sinker, jig heads, and a variety of handgun bullets. The lead was about 20 cents per lb so the cost of a body is less than a penny. At today's prices it would be closer to a nickel.

.031 wire, 1/8" bead, and #3 clevis are purchased online, 15 or 20 cents total.

Hook is whatever you want to throw on there that you have confidence in, and costs vary widely. The Matzuo sickle hook is new to me, just something I want to try out this year.

Add it all up, throw in a little for paint and silver plate solution amortized over many pieces and that is the number I came up with.

Put a swivel between that body and hook and it would be a killer!! :twocents:

 

[Drachir]

For steelhead, cast upstream and reel the spinner back towards you, retrieved just fast enough to keep it from hanging up on the bottom.

I am in total agreement. When fishing spinners I find it best that Steelhead have to react to the spinner quickly. This is why most Steelies that I catch are usually caught in the first few casts as I cover the water.

If the current and holding water are appropriate I have had decent success with spinners fished on the downstream swing. Fished this way it does take a bit of finesse and it is best to keep the spinner as close to the bottom as possible and feeling for the blade thump.

 

[rangr]

WestLinn - Good on you for sprinkling some of your spinners around for "seed". It's just good business, and good karma too. There may be a market for a lead bodied spinner at a lower price point, but then your margin will probably be less and what will that do to your brand? That's exactly why I don't want to start down that road, I want nothing to do with marketing and salesmanship. I believe that the weight forward torpedo style body such as yours gives a spinner a slightly better balance. My lead bodies are symmetrical, the weight is evenly distributed and that leads to the body becoming "tail heavy" as body weight is increased. The end result is that the maximum body weight is slightly decreased for any given blade size. Now if you had a mold that would produce torpedo style lead bodies that might be something to consider...

Kalama - You may have a good point, adding a swivel between body and hook might be a good stroke. I do it with spoons because it was recommended in Bill Herzog's spoon book, so why not with spinners too?

Bankbound - Which green are you thinking? I've used bright kelly green, chartreuse green, and one or two in between but black has usually been my first choice, blue has been second. Always looking for another weapon in the arsenal.

 

[West Linn Wader]

WestLinn - Good on you for sprinkling some of your spinners around for "seed". It's just good business, and good karma too. There may be a market for a lead bodied spinner at a lower price point, but then your margin will probably be less and what will that do to your brand? That's exactly why I don't want to start down that road, I want nothing to do with marketing and salesmanship. I believe that the weight forward torpedo style body such as yours gives a spinner a slightly better balance. My lead bodies are symmetrical, the weight is evenly distributed and that leads to the body becoming "tail heavy" as body weight is increased. The end result is that the maximum body weight is slightly decreased for any given blade size. Now if you had a mold that would produce torpedo style lead bodies that might be something to consider....

It's hard not to give 'em away, especially when other guys around you wanna know what you're using as you have experienced.

We've already produced and sold a fair amount of lead bodies (in larger sizes) that were used to make jetty spinners. We have longtime customers who wouldn't be happy if we ever stopped using brass on our torpedo spinners but there's probably room to offer them as a heavyweight option on the side.

 

[Wild Chrome]

I believe that the weight forward torpedo style body such as yours gives a spinner a slightly better balance. My lead bodies are symmetrical, the weight is evenly distributed and that leads to the body becoming "tail heavy" as body weight is increased. The end result is that the maximum body weight is slightly decreased for any given blade size. Now if you had a mold that would produce torpedo style lead bodies that might be something to consider...

Rangr,
I think you're assessment is accurate. The spinner design you showed looks like a real fish catcher in faster water where balance and responsiveness isn't quite so important. That's a lot of fish-catching power for the money, though your time commitment to make it has its own cost.

Rangr's spinner brings up a contrast in spinner types I sometimes choose between: the money spinner, the standard spinner, and the kamikaze spinner. Money spinners are your best: you only use when you know fish are there but they're not cooperating. Might be a pricey one like a 50/50 gold/silver or it might be the one that matches conditions the best, but you're down to your last one. Don't want to lose the money spinner! Standard spinner is the one that works well that you have a bunch of them. For winter steelhead, I personally like Jed's winter standard (Pen-tac #5 with silver blade); straight out of the book, though I usually use a contrasting body color. Kamikaze spinner is the one you don't care if you lose and are willing to throw it into the snaggiest water you encounter. Got a lot of them: pretty much all the spinners that don't match up to my standards.

One last thought: I hate sickle hooks on spinners. I've had a higher drive-by ratio with sickle hooks than any other. I like Mustad and Gamakatsu personally. Also, the siwash's that come with Blue Fox spinners: Total Garbage and too big! (you'll either miss or kill a steelhead). Throw them out!

 

[rangr]

Wild Chrome - Thanks for weighing in. I've heard good and bad about sickle hooks, the only way I'll be satisfied is to try them for myself. The brand/style of the hook is only part of the equation, in my opinion. The action of the rod, type of line (mono or braid), and timing and method of hookset are important also. Any rod/reel spooled with any line properly fished by just about anyone will catch some fish, what we all want is to learn how to bring our game as far above that baseline as possible.

I'm a big fan of braided line because it has no stretch, not real fussy about brand. I like the ability it gives me for a solid hook set with a lot of line out, and it casts further than mono allowing me to reach places I otherwise couldn't, but its best quality is the increased feel. The rotation of the spinner blade is easy to feel even with 150' of line out, and that feel is crucial to fishing the spinner properly. That lack of stretch can also be a handicap when a fish strikes, you feel everything so well it is possible to set the hook too soon. I've started using rods with a soft enough tip that will let the fish turn before it really feels the hook, the same as you would fishing a dry fly, and my solid hookup ratio has gone up. Obviously this doesn't apply to a slack line bite, just set the hook.

I use 20# braid for main line and Maxima Ultra Green leader using either a Double Uni knot or Sebile knot to join them.

 

[Wild Chrome]

Wild Chrome - Thanks for weighing in. I've heard good and bad about sickle hooks, the only way I'll be satisfied is to try them for myself. The brand/style of the hook is only part of the equation, in my opinion. The action of the rod, type of line (mono or braid), and timing and method of hookset are important also. Any rod/reel spooled with any line properly fished by just about anyone will catch some fish, what we all want is to learn how to bring our game as far above that baseline as possible.

I'm a big fan of braided line because it has no stretch, not real fussy about brand. I like the ability it gives me for a solid hook set with a lot of line out, and it casts further than mono allowing me to reach places I otherwise couldn't, but its best quality is the increased feel. The rotation of the spinner blade is easy to feel even with 150' of line out, and that feel is crucial to fishing the spinner properly. That lack of stretch can also be a handicap when a fish strikes, you feel everything so well it is possible to set the hook too soon. I've started using rods with a soft enough tip that will let the fish turn before it really feels the hook, the same as you would fishing a dry fly, and my solid hookup ratio has gone up. Obviously this doesn't apply to a slack line bite, just set the hook.

I use 20# braid for main line and Maxima Ultra Green leader using either a Double Uni knot or Sebile knot to join them.

I agree with all of it! I usually use a little lighter braided line (for extra distance and depth) and a swivel to connect the Maxima leader. Rods are moderate action: 8-12 in winter and 4-8 or 6-10 in summer.

 

[rangr]

I agree with all of it! I usually use a little lighter braided line (for extra distance and depth) and a swivel to connect the Maxima leader. Rods are moderate action: 8-12 in winter and 4-8 or 6-10 in summer.

So I'm curious, if you tie your mainline to a swivel and then attach the leader, how long is your leader? I use a 7 or 8 foot leader because the braid is so visible, and to use a leader that long it is necessary to attach the braid main line directly to the leader so it can go through the rod guides, or even onto the reel if necessary because I use a longer leader in very clear water. I would feel uncomfortable using a swivel with a leader short enough to cast, in clear water that is going to have a detrimental effect on the number of strikes you will get.

 

[chromeblind]

I also use braid with a mono bumper, but having problems with braid twisting up & creating a mess, Using a swivel attached to spinner, and using a spinning reel.

 

[gretch]

I ended up with a gear rod and hucking spinners more this last season than in the last 20 years combined. Murky water season made me do so, and I had a blast catching tons of fish as well as fishing tons of water I have been ignoring for years.

anyway...I have a point.....

All said and done I spent a ridiculous amount of money on blue foxes. What equipment would you spinner making pros suggest I buy to get started making my own? Brands etc?

thanks