From my reading the unreliable part of the ulterra is the remote stow and launch feature. I installed my own on my last boat and the difficult part was making decisions about and building battery mounts. I put them under the bow so I wouldn’t loose valuable seat box storage. In the ocean you’ll want a long shaft to keep it in the water when wind swells pick up.

 

My Ulterra I've had on my previous boat since 2019. Its worked great in the salt. The deploy and stow did have some issues. The thing you have to understand is, it doesn't like it when heavy wind waves and current are hitting it (skeg and prop) while you are actively stowing or deploying.
If you remember to stop the main motor and let the boat drift to a stop, then hit the deploy...you typically don't have that issue. Also if there is ever an issue...I just shut it down, go up to the bow and manually reposition the head for stowing and then power it back up and stow and/or do the reset procedure. I've only had issues when the wind is howling and we have a LOT of wind chop or if I'm too aggressive in deploying when I just took the main out of gear running up for a drift.

Apparently, all the new Quest Instinct versions (the new models) have fixed all the issues on the previous Ulterra. But I guess time will tell.

I'm now rigging a new boat with a motor in the next few weeks. Just built the battery boxes and will get some of the electrical done before I order the motor. But as S Radke stated, it takes some careful planing and fabricating to get everything mounted so you don't eat up precious storage space.

 

My Ulterra I've had on my previous boat since 2019. Its worked great in the salt. The deploy and stow did have some issues. The thing you have to understand is, it doesn't like it when heavy wind waves and current are hitting it (skeg and prop) while you are actively stowing or deploying.
If you remember to stop the main motor and let the boat drift to a stop, then hit the deploy...you typically don't have that issue. Also if there is ever an issue...I just shut it down, go up to the bow and manually reposition the head for stowing and then power it back up and stow and/or do the reset procedure. I've only had issues when the wind is howling and we have a LOT of wind chop or if I'm too aggressive in deploying when I just took the main out of gear running up for a drift.

Apparently, all the new Quest Instinct versions (the new models) have fixed all the issues on the previous Ulterra. But I guess time will tell.

I'm now rigging a new boat with a motor in the next few weeks. Just built the battery boxes and will get some of the electrical done before I order the motor. But as S Radke stated, it takes some careful planing and fabricating to get everything mounted so you don't eat up precious storage space.

I am planning on the new riptide instinct I gues, as the autodeploy is nearly essential for my new Seahawk. If you have ideas for battery storage system in the bow and you don’t mind sharing, I would love to hear them. Going with lithium batteries and was going to fab up a containment that also had something to cushion them to cut down on vibration and banging.
Reb

 

Looking for information on mounting an electric trolling motor on my 26’ boat. My Edge Marine has a nice flat surface for the bow mount, so I contacted a couple of marinas for an install. For a Minkota Ulterra or a Garmin, they wanted almost $9000.00 for the install. Really? In looking up the parts needed, they totaled about $5000. Then looking on YouTube, the mounting does not look difficult. $4000 just to mount one of these? With the new Lithium batteries do I really need 36v or can I get by with 24v? Any thoughts on this?
Also word I hear is the Ulterras are not that reliable, but can be launched and recovered remotely which is a nice advantage. Lots of questions, love to hear what others have experienced.

4k to mount is stupid crazy. I mounted mine on my pacific and just finished the install on the super vee. I had to build a battery tray for the SV's 24V 100AH battery as it was just a little bit bigger then a group 31 battery. That was really the only custom part to the install. My pacific is 28' AOL and I went with the 36V 112# 72" shaft ulterra. I wish they made a longer shaft as I do get some cavitation when the seas pick up. I had the Terrova but it was way to sketchy going up on the bow when the seas got rough. I would go with the 36V as it puts out a lot more thrust.

 

If your bow is easy access get the Minn Kota Riptide Terrova. If it is a pain to access get the Ulterra.

There are many threads on self install. This is what I did. If you get the quick disconnect bracket from Minn Kota it is very easy to install. They provide a cardboard template to do a mock install.

Only you know how much your boat weighs and your height from the bow to the water line. Bigger motor is better. Longer shaft is better. There is a guide on the Minn Kota website for how much thrust you need and how long your shaft should be. Add extra distance for the shaft.

There are many threads on batteries too. Many of us have switched to Lithium Ion batteries. I have two 12V LiTime batteries in series for my 24V They are the best bang for the buck batteries I have seen. Some people like the batteries in the bow. Others prefer the stern. I wanted the batteries in the most stable part of the boat which is the stern.

Don't forget to add a circuit breaker between the batteries and the bow mount. I installed a 60 amp thermal circuit breaker from Blue Seas Systems.

 

All sounds like good advice thank you.

 

Once you get a bow mount you'll wonder why you didn't do it earlier!

Install is easy and a half day or less depending on your setup. A few things to consider:
Battery location: You need a secure place to mount the batteries. The closer to the bow the better.
Wiring: There's a bunch of charts online that show wiring sizes based on draw and circuit length (length includes both positive and negative leads). This is why battery location is so important as it doesn't take long to require a very large gauge wire. Make sure to use tinned wire and connectors (Seattle Marine is a good source for cut to length).
Breakers: Joeer77 gotcha there.
Battery disconnect: It's not required but I would recommend one. Takes phantom draws out of the picture and enhances safety should anything go wrong. Plus. It makes it easier to service.

 

Get the autodeploy!
I have a 2017 Riptide ulterra 24V 80# thrust 60" shaft on my 22' NR Seahawk. It was originally my 20' Alumaweld stryker. I took it off when I upgraded boats because of the shortage during COVID.
even though it's not ideal for the large boat is still works great! especially since I got lithium batteries this fall for it. Before lithium batteries, I could only get one full days of trolling with lead acid.
This motor is still strong enough to "spot-lock" me during Willy shad season, Columbia summers, and ocean bottom fishing.
I've only had to replace the auto-deploy motor once about 4 years ago because it was starting to get weak. So it was replaced before complete failure.
All the bad stories you hear were the previous generation ulterras.
I'm able to trolling 1.5 mph for trout at 3.5-4.0 out of 10 power.
for salmon, I'm generally at that same power for boat control in light wind with the kicker for propulsion for 360 flasher fishing.
for springers and triangles, for stealth in shallow water, just the bow mount at 4-5 power.


I installed it myself on both boats. The hardest part was when the nylon lock nuts froze while installing. Had to Dremel at least two off during each install!
I bet for $1000 you could find an Ifisher to do the install!

For your boat, I would definitely get the 72" shaft and 115# thrust. Although looking at Minn Kota's site, they don't have the riptide ulterra anymore for saltwater. just the newer Quest. Looks like it has the option for 24V-90# or 36V 115# built in, so you could try 24V first and add a battery and more thrust later. but it $4600--OUCH.

GET THE AUTODEPLOY!

 

So somethings that might help as you go through this and even get to post installation.

We had some threads in the past on lessons learned, maintenance, installation, etc.

https://www.ifish.net/threads/minn-kota-ulterra-maintenance-video.1690926/

Filtering Radio Noise from Minn Kota Ulterra

Hi folks, Thought I'd post this as a tip in case you experience wide-band radio noise from your electric trolling motor. Last year I installed a 36volt Minn Kota, but noticed after the river test run there was a lot of wide-band noise that I was picking up on my VHF radio. Normally, I...

www.ifish.net

https://www.ifish.net/threads/electric-trolling-motor-options-advice.1690226/

https://www.ifish.net/threads/tips-from-5-years-of-using-a-bow-mount.1693848/#replies

I'm in the process of building out a new boat. Similar to the old boat, I built the box custom to fit the batteries in a location near the bow. One thing that works pretty good is the 1/4" stall mats that you can buy by the foot. Use that inside of the box to provide some cushioning on the bottom and sides and even between batteries (depending on how you build the box). Think of the stall mat as a liner...

I built my boxes out of 1/8" aluminum and welded all the seams - so its the perfect dimensions to fit 3 batteries with 1/4" stall mat between the sides, bottom and between batteries.

Then welded angle on top for mounting the cover which I like to use 3/8" starboard / HDPE material. Angle material is 1/4" so I can easily tap in 1/4" x 20tpi threads.

I would not do this with Lead Acid chemistry because of the potential Hydrogen buildup during charging --- unless you were very careful with venting. If you were very careful about venting properly...you could make AGM/Lead Acid work, but then you have the extra weight you need to consider.



If you weld aluminum or have a friend nearby that can weld aluminum, that is the ideal method of construction. Pre-cut everything with a skill saw and prep the metal by cleaning and scrubbing the oxide layer off and then have your friend weld it. It will be the cleanest install that way.

If you don't have access to a welder, you can construct it with angle and through bolts (preferable nylocks) so that you use the angle to tie the corners together. Its not as clean, but you can still construct a good box that way.

Make sure the top is non-conductive. That is the major reason why I always use Starboard / HDPE for my battery box covers. Extra insurance you don't have a short if you didn't have the batteries anchored down good enough and you hit some rough water.


Have fun...its a journey to get it all installed the way you want and then after you use your bow mount...you'll wonder how you lived without it.

 

Public service announcement on using stainless steel fasteners ----- As mentioned above, they can gall and seize very easily and usually before they even get tight. This is usually followed by very colorful language. I strongly suggest using a bit of never seize if using stainless nuts on stainless bolts. And the nylock style seam to be the worst...

 

Good on you for mentioning this. Many folks do not realize this.
Two things helps a LOT. 1st use Tef-Gel on the threads. 2, do NOT use a powered drill to tighten. Do it by hand. Its actually even mentioned in the Minn Kota installation manual to not use a power drill when tightening the screws. Its amazing how fast the stainless will weld itself (bolt and nut) with the rapid heat this is generated.
Using Tef Gel and making sure you do it by hand...I haven't seen an issue.

-J

 

$4,000 sounds ridiculous. Did they tell you what the expense was for? I've see plenty of ETM's on Seahawks and haven't heard of a failure of the stock bow material. A boat manufacturer told be he wouldn't install without beefing up the bow. It added a lot of cost to the installation and I'm not convinced it's needed. Maybe that is where the higher expense is?

 

I've had the riptide instinct for the last year. So far so good. Deployed and stowed at least a hundred times. I was charged $625 for install of the motor and wiring to the battery.

 

It looks like the Minnkota riptide instinct quest in 72” looks to be what I need. At $4700 just for the motor, having a hard time justifying the expense based on the number of times I use the boat.

 

East solution; fish more!

 

Perhaps the Riptide Terrova is more your speed. Buy once cry once. They are awesome and worth every penny. Big boat = big trolling motor.

 

They are really easy to mount. You definitely want 36v for that size boat. But do a little research on proper wiring for marine applications size and tinned wire.

 

I went with Garmin Kraken 100# last year. Funny you mention difficulty of install, past year at work kicked my butt so it is still sitting in the barn mocking me. I built battery box out of ABS sheet, 3/8 and 1/2”, with a gasketed lid. Joe (Quiet Riot) welded a shelf for it it the bow storage locker up against the bulkhead. It fits a 36V 100ah lithium. Noco 36v charger installed against step under the helm. Mounting bracket was supplied by Rogue for my Coastal, and modified to fit the Garmin versus the Minnkota. Maybe you have motivated me to go mount the bracket and run wire for plugs. Maybe…….

 

J

Just installed the kraken was pretty simple once you get past drilling holes

 

Garmin kraken..

 

i absolutely love my Riptide Ulterra. never had an issue. I'm on 80# 24v, but i also only have a 19' boat. i would go 112# 36v if you wanted to get one. however, i don't think they are making the Ulterra anymore. i think the Instinct is the replacement but i could be wrong.

$4k for installation is RIDICULOUS! it really isn't that hard. they must just not want to do it. take your time and do it yourself.

 

i absolutely love my Riptide Ulterra. never had an issue. I'm on 80# 24v, but i also only have a 19' boat. i would go 112# 36v if you wanted to get one. however, i don't think they are making the Ulterra anymore. i think the Instinct is the replacement but i could be wrong.

$4k for installation is RIDICULOUS! it really isn't that hard. they must just not want to do it. take your time and do it yourself.

I also have a Riptide (Terrova) 80# 24v on my 19ft boat and love it.

 

I have heard nothing but horror stories about auto deploy..

 

i've had my Ulterra for 3 years and have had no issues whatsoever with my auto deploy. i love it when it is ****ing rain and i don't have to go to the bow to do it. i can just sit undercover and watch it deploy.

 

The auto launch and recovery has been the main problem with my Ulterra. If I had it to do again I'd go with something else. Just my 2 cents.

 

I just bought the Terrova Riptide Minn Kota 80# Thrust 24 volt.Glad I got the 72”.Did a lot of Utubes before I bought my first Li Time Lithium 24Volt 100 AH.Battery was $270.00 on Amazon.Just bought another for $330.00.Went up a bit in short time.I believe 1 battery will last 2 full days of rigorous use.They fully charge from dead to full in 5 hours.I spent $240.00 for the Li Time smart 24 volt charger.These batteries are 1/3 lighter than lead batteries.Supposed to last 10 years properly taken care of.Jury is still out on that one.These batteries don’t like cold temps.Should be stored for long periods at 60% charge.What little I know I feel real good about my purchase.I have roughly under &4000.00 for everything.The best part is I can use the motor on both my boats.The puck it sits and locks onto are $40.00 on EBay.R-19.These motors should be illegal.They are fish stalkers.

 

The Garmin is a brushless motor throughout, Force Force Pro and Kraken are all brushless motors. Minnkota reserves brushless for only their top of the line motor, the quest?