Dig holes and push pipe across with backhoe.

 

My neighbor, a plumber, showed me how to hydro-drill under my driveway. I added sprinkler wiring and a larger main water line to our home using hydro-drilling. Crossed the 12' wide driveway twice and it was much easier than anticipated. Only 'trick' was to dig down a couple feet to start so that we weren't undermining support for the driveway. The hydro-drill made a hole about 8" diameter this way.

He just smashed the end of a piece of copper pipe to create the 'drilling orifice' and we attached to some PVC we had laying around. Used hose pressure, didn't bother with pressure washer. I see Home Depot sells a 'Walkway Tunnel Kit' orifice for cheap.

Had many large rocks at one end of the driveway: had to try a couple different paths until we found one that missed the rocks. All the work was in hand digging the hole a couple feet down to be able to progressively add the sections of PVC pipe. The actual hydro-drilling under the driveway was not difficult.

 

I have a Horizontal Boring Earth for developing springs it works ok but if there is any previous mechanical under slab it will be damaged .Also we have to add extensions to cutter head .
We ended up getting the magic bullet/missile for water lines under slabs for Fire prevention .Have seen it in action a few times .My son uually runs it .Its run with an air compressor and taps it way under the the slab with minimal material loss .
The water deal is a fail down the road .Most won’t slurry in grout after the pipes are installed .The material goes somewhere and when there are voids soil collapses and allows water to keep eroding away until the slab fails .
Look for some one with the Air Missile 👍🏻,done in minutes unless you don’t value your time😳😂👍🏻

 

Rent a saw cut it and patch it

 

this may be an option, but this a "shared easement" and i would have to get buy in from the neighbor.

 

You could get away with it for a concrete slab, but may be a matter of time before it crumbles. Asphalt will fail sooner then later along the washed out area. Go to Home depot and rent a concrete saw and line cut and dig the area out. Since you need a small amount of material to fill back in, paving it would be more involved than using sacks of concrete. You can tint the concrete with Lamp Black, add a little at a time to darken the cement to match the asphalt,,,gregg

 

As far as I remember, power is supposed to be 3' down. If you do non-conforming work it'll get flagged whenever you decide to sell or if say there's a fire. As an inspector told me, they're fine with a utility building having an extension cord running to it, but hard wiring requires a permit ... those are the rules and I don't always follow them myself, but you should be aware. Maybe you're just installing an outlet?

 

As far as I remember, power is supposed to be 3' down.

Pretty sure it's only 18" for residential

 

Of course first off is getting utility locates.

 

This is what Cat is talking about I think. We have used one to go under our asphalt and it’s a breeze. I don’t like the water idea because as stated above. Before the mole we used a back hoe and steel pipe which worked. I’m sure you can rent a Mole maybe even from Home Depot.

 

This would be pretty sweet... I wonder if they rent these things.. i think i would also need to rent a giant air compressor.. mine is definitely not powerful enough to run something like this.

 

You can buy a diamond blade for a skillsaw. Then buy 6x9 paver bricks. Lay out some bricks take that measurement and chalk line the pavement. Cut with saw. Dig trench etc. Use a hand tamper to pack gravel over ditch. Buy a bag of sand and hand screed it to set bricks. use left over sand as gap filler in bricks.

 

I'd call around and get a few prices on a horizontal bore and sleeve job.
Also think about whether or not you will ever need water out there.

Some plumbing companies have a boring machine.

 

18 inches is minimum under a RESIDENTIAL driveway. Using rigid or intermediate metal conduit that depth is reduced to 12 inches if encased in concrete. I'd cut the driveway, use rigid conduit and pour concrete on it. That's the easiest way, and time is money.

 

May not be too expensive to hire someone to do the job. When I had a leak in my heavy poly water line from the street to the house, I think I paid $2000 to have them do a trenchless replacement. They ran a line splitter down the old line, which seemed similar to the air borer. Replace the line, install new pressure regulator and all the copper pipe and valves from the inlet line to the new regulator. So without all the cost of regulator and pipe connection labor, etc. should ,be fairly reasonable.

 

I have done exactly what you are asking about. It's really easy as long as you don't have major issues with rocks. Back in the 1970's I worked for NWNG and learned this process by running gas lines under hard surfaces.

1. dig a trench about 20 foot long in the dirt/grass area pointing the direction where the power needs to go.
2. Get 2-3 lengths of threaded pipe (electrical conduit), 1.25 inch in diameter. Also get threaded couplings to thread the pieces of pipe together. Include a coupling on the leading edge to screw a plug into.
3. Get a galvanized plug to screw into the leading coupling so it will not fill with dirt.
4. lay a 6 inch piece of 2X4 about every half dozen feet in the trench.
5. drop the pipe sections into the trench, verify it is laying flat in the trench using a level.
6. use a sledge hammer/splitting maul to pound the pipe across the drive way.
7 push the power line thru the pipe.
I have used this method successfully about 3-4 times in my life. It only takes about 20 minutes to pound the pipe 20 feet if the dirt isn't too full of rocks.

 

Get a "Sand point well kit" and drive a solid pipe under the driveway.

Water Source 2 in. x 36 in. Well Point WPF3680 - The Home Depot

The 2 in. x 36 in. Well Point drives into all types of soil. It is engineered to provide an ideal combination of easy driving, effective sand control, corrosion resistance and strength. It is constructed

www.homedepot.com