Welded trailers are more durable in the long haul than bolted trailers. i walked away from a boat recently because the trailer was junk. New ones are 3500 bucks for what I am buying. Spend a little now, or spend a lot later.
Plastic fenders bolted on, or metal welded on? What do you think?
How heavy the boat matters too. The bigger the boat,the more pronounced the difference between the two.
The above assumes all other factors are the same.
Mark and the welded galvenized double axle with washout dog.
I would not recommend an ez-loader. The frame and such is fine. I didnt mind the plastic fenders but the axles and bearings have something to be desired. I've had two different trailers, at about the same miles, same problem with the hub falling off and then no grease. Today was not a good day.
I think you need to ask yourself - how much durability do you truly need? If all you're gonna do is haul your boat down the block to the boat ramp, then about anything with wheels will suffice.
But if you're gonna be hauling it all over the Northwest - down the Interstate at 70mph, back roads, bumpy roads, etc, then you'd better get the beefiest trailer with the best axles. And regardless of make, you're going to have to keep up on the maintenance.
I have had 3 EZ-Loader trailers. All Galvanized bolted and metal fenders. I would say they are ok. If I were you and the Rogue trailer cost a little more I would still go with it. Nothing wrong with EZ-Loader, but have had some problems. I think the quality is ok, but I've seen the Rogue tailers and I like em! I have had problems with axles, bearings and hubs. A friend of mine who also has a EZ laoder has had nothing but problems from axle, bearings and hubs.
Axles, bearings and hubs....Is not a trailer manufatures problem. Most of the axles come from the same place for all of the manufactures. Manufactures won't check or inspect a new axle for the most part...
They bolt them up and away goes there trailer...
My hat is off to any of them that do check them!
The quality control of the axle builders is very questionable....
I suggest that no matter who you buy a trailer from...Pull the hubs and bearings apart soon after you get it and inspect...It might be fine and it might be dry or poorly installed...At very least...Jack it up and spin the wheel to see if it is smooth...with grease... or rough.....
Peace of mind before you go on a long trip.
Stop every 2 hours on a trip and walk around the rig to touch the hubs to see if they are running hot....Or normal...
Better to find out early than to see
smoke in the mirrors!!!
We call the ez- Loader the Cheezy loadar. I know a few people that have had problems. Steping on fenders and having them break or breaking when a tire goes south, Bolts that are not the correct grade and shearing while trailering... not good to have the boat resting on fenders when the cross bar drops. Get a welded trailer
I've had my Cheezy Loader for over 3 years now, and no major complaints. Sure, there's room for improvement, but you could say that about anything. As far as the plastic fenders, they're great. I specifically wanted step fenders, since I'm not real tall at 5'9", and the ones on my trailer are reinforced under the steps by galvanized brackets. And this chunky monkey weighs 220 lbs.
Welded fenders are great if they're heavy enough on the gauge. The ones on my last trailer weren't, and I lost them both on a vicious stretch of the Alcan when the vibration became too much. :depressed:
IMHO, most trailer problems are caused by people not buying enough trailer. If you have a 2000 lb boat, don't buy a 2000 lb GVWR trailer, or you WILL have problems.
WD, if your boat weighs in at 3K by itself, I'm guessing that you might need a tandem axle that weighs (a guess) about 1000 lbs empty. So that's 4000 lbs. I'd go to at least a 5000 lb GVWR to get a 1000 lb margin. I wouldn't go crazy and get a 10,000 lb GVWR, since you don't want to be oversprung either.
My trailer is rated at over double the weight of my boat, motor and gear, and nearly double the axle weight. (I checked the axle weight on a truck scale- IMHO, everyone should do this)
But I like overkill. Overkill = peace of mind.
I don't have any evidence to back it up, but I suspect that a lot of people don't factor in the weight of the trailer when estimating their GVWR. My trailer weighs as much as the boat hull, so it makes a big difference.
IMHO, another problem are dealers that sell "packages"- boat, motor, and trailer. Everybody's seen how they make the price look good by advertising the package with a motor that's too small (i.e. a 50hp on a 19' Super Vee)so I suspect that the trailer is inadequate as well. I've seen it before, but I haven't looked at one lately. Just a suspicion based on past experience.
Rated trailer weight and actually what your trailer/boat weight from the factory can be different when you fill it up. If you boat is 2500 and you buy a 2500 rated trailer you can get into trouble. I like to have 500lbs or slightly more availiable due to all the junk that can get loaded plus fuel.
Remember tires are also rated for weight. I have seen Trailers that are rated for a specific weight but checking the 14'" tires weight range there would be no way to the the rated trailer weight on the trailer/boat could be safely carried....ie. fast tire wear and blow outs. Make sure you get 15" tires they can haul mor weight
Water Dog, I believe EZLoader used to recomend either a 10% or 20% margin (i.e. if the gross weight of loaded boat + trailer was 4000#s, then the trailer's rated capacity should be at least 4400# to 4800#).
(I found this %-margin a couple years ago, doing some research after I suspected the boat dealer sold me an undersized trailer.)
At the EZLoader site today, I know longer find the safety margin expressed as a percentage, instead they now say the trailer should "meet or exceed" the total load (duh!).
P.S. Waterdog, does your presence on this thread explain your absence on the Columbia this weekend?
This thread aroused my curiosity, so I went out and looked at the GVWR sticker on my Cheezy Loader (thanks, Jet :wink: ) It was advertised as a 2000lb capacity trailer when I bought it in 2000, but the GVWR is 2500 lbs. It weighs a little over 400 lbs without the options that I put on, so E-Z Loader was being truthful and not confusing GVWR with capacity. So I guess the important thing is to know if the trailer is rated by capacity or GVWR. I wouldn't put it past a dealer to fudge the two.