I know that back in the '90s, Fish-Rite, Alumaweld and N.River for instance all used automotive refinish/repair paint.
The same kind used in body shops.
Solid single color schemes were almost always single stage, while metallics and pearl colors were Basecoat/Clearcoat.
The interiors were usually conversion coated, primed and then Zolatone was applied, and an automotive grade clearcoat was applied over the Zolatone.

 

Many of the larger heavy welded boats are still painted from the factory.

Zolatone marine paints are still popular, though they are not great to touch up and require some skill to apply.

If you don't want to use automotive paints, then Pettit and Imron have great marine paint and primer options.... though your wallet might be surprised as to how those cost.

 

Try Wesco Quality Paint in Hillsboro, I repainted my aluminum boat a few years ago and they set me up with all the right paint.

 

It's a lot about the primer you use too. Imron/epoxy "type" paints are what you need for top coats.

 

Cleaning the area to be painted, Then etching it with the correct acid before priming is the key to a good job. Shaker cans work fine for this on smaller jobs.

 

Bare aluminum needs to be sanded and prepped before painting. First apply a lite coat of etching wash primer. Second, apply a coat of epoxy primer and last, apply two or three coats of acrylic or urethane enamel. If you use a basecoat, it will have to be clear coated. Any autobody paint store can head you in the right direction.

 

PPG products are pretty good. Google for dealers.

 

At least I agree with you on one thing. I've been using PPG products for close to 45 years and they are the best IMO. Remember, you get what you pay for, when buying auto paint supplies. If you want a paint job to last, don't go cheap on supplies. :twocents:

 

Pettit marine paint. The last time I needed some was to paint a 14' flatbottom duck boat.

 

I have PPG paint in the interior of my Willie's boat, and its damn near bullet proof. I recommend this over zolatone. Search around or call Willie's boats for a specific manufacturer name. As for the outside, I cant help there, as I prefer straight metal looks. :excited:

 

Old school Zolatone was not the least bit durable even with a clear catalyzed top coat. There's better stuff but it doesn't look exactly the same.

 

I have sprayed lots of Zolatone and it is very durable if applied correctly. That's the problem. A lot of people try to use shortcuts to save money. Zolatone is an oil-waterbase finish. This is what causes the separation and texture of the stuff. You are supposed to wait at least twenty four hours before clear coating. I think this is where most of the clear coating failures occur. Go back to my previous post on how to paint aluminum and follow the priming steps before applying Zolatone.

 

Halle: Yea, it's really an education when buying good paint. Good stuff isn't cheap and that includes the primer.


I've seen some clear coated Zolatone applications that didn't hold up but I didn't apply them so can't comment on how it was done.


I was painting a boat trailer one time and wanted to apply two coats. The weather was getting to cool and humid to paint by the time the second coat could go on so wanted to wait till the next morning to shoot the last coat. The paint was mixed and if I'd have just put the gun aside the paint would have set up hard as a rock in the gun. I put it in the freezer overnight and the next morning it was good to go. That last coat set up real quick after it warmed but the gun and the mixed paint wasn't ruined.

 

I will say I'm not a fan of clear coated Zolatone, but to each his own. Price out a gallon of DP epoxy primer and catalyst, or a gallon of K36 filler primer and catalyst, or a gallon of quality urethane reducer and get ready for a shock! Good paint is really expensive. The days of painting a car, for a hundred bucks, are just a dream.