I have an okuma 9'3" guide select classic gsc-c-932h-cg 15-30 2-8oz run 360s and 16s all day long no prob

 

Flash, This is the perfect rod to do the job, get this one!

Cheers,

 

That’s what I’m looking for!! I must not have seen it if they had it but that is definitely the size range I was expecting!!

Thanks all!!

 

Yep no prob it's a great rod. They also make it in a 9'6" 15 - 40 4 - 16 xh that I've heard is awesome for 360s but I have not tired one yet.

 

I ended up with the 9'6" 15 - 40 4 - 16 xh and was very happy with it. Landed an adult clipped Coho yesterday at B10 and a nice chinook today upriver. It was paired with an older Okuma Coldwater Low Pro.

 

Neither! They both use junk Seaguide guides. :twocents:

 

So what is your recommendation in the $150 price poi t?

 

go over and see Dave Calhoun at nwrods, i picked up two of his 9ft. one piece pro trolls rods and they are fantastic , they handle big fish and are perfect with 16oz. and a flasher

 

I looked at his website last night. Are those rods in the same price point?

 

The 9' Shimano Clarus in 1-6 oz works very well.

 

The Redline salmon series rods are composites, in fact the same exact blank used in the excellent XCC rods, the 934 will be a very dependable rod. Rods don't fail, the person using the rod fails.

 

I've had both. I bought my redline 2 seasons ago looking to get into a new rod at this price point. The tip ended up breaking on a cast, not sure if it was me or the rod. Probably me, since I'm hard on my gear, hence why I didn't want to invest in something more expensive. Lamiglas warrantied the rod, awesome! Few months later, rod broke in the same spot (broke at the 2nd guide down from the tip), doing the same thing. Casting out, tip flies off. Just bought a 9'9" Okuma GSP. No complaints so far, still in my testing phase. But so far, I really like the feel of it compared to the Lami. I'm not constantly re-tightening my reel either. Not sure if I'll go back to Lamiglas, but I can't say the GSP is more durable yet.

 

Thanks... I thought they were rotationally symmetrical.

 

Not on cheap rods. Spline and how you set a guide train for a rod are an age old debate.
Suffice to say for $150.00 I'd just buy a $49.99-69.99 special and be done. Performance doesn't really separate till around $300.00 for a factory stick with what's on the market currently.
Spend your leftover money on a good reel with a smooth drag.

 

OMG, rod snobs wanting 300+ for their labor.... yes nothing free so save it. 2 custom rods breaking under normal use and hundreds of $$$$$$$$ to have it all re-wrapped and delaying my time on water... I'm done with being a rod snob.

Unless you really tork the Okuma Guide Select which I do regularly with 16oz cannon ball and fish your not going to break them. Guides don't fail any more than any other brand fuji or what ever that cheaper brand is. I've had fuji guides pop out too. You got money to burn go with custom. I stopped being that guy. Invest your money on the reel.... like someone else noted.

 

I'm a fan of the less expensive rod and buying a decent reel with good drag. I fish with too many newbies, a broken rod is no big deal because I choose to not run $300-400 rods. I think a lot of broken rods actually occur with the handling and storage of them, then they actually break while casting or playing a fish. I'd recommend for a 360 rod is a okuma SST on sale for like $80 and an okuma low pro line counter on sale for $100-120, that rod can run herring with 5 oz of lead and troll pro trolls all day with 20oz of lead.

 

We had a couple of redline rods at one time. They were nice rods. I would always take lami over okuma. But... I think they are now made in china? With like a 1 year warranty?

 

I have never been a fan of anything Okuma, but I have 5 of there Okuma guide select rods and they are great. I have not been easy on them and never had a problem with them. They are great for a cheap boat road or plunking rod.

 

I have 2 Redlines and they have caused me 3 trips to the factory.

#1 guide insert cracked. Not knowing lost a nice springer and full gear to a cut in the braid. Lamiglas repaired the guide and shipped back to me.

#2 bought a 2nd Redline after the warranty service I received and first trip out the rod broke in half on the first hook up. Lamiglas replaced the rod.

#3 another guide cracked on the original rod and lost gear again. Went to the factory and purchased a new upper section rather than having it repaired. Figured it was going to continue to have cracked guides if I didn’t. None of my other rods have ever had cracked guides and I treat them all the same.

Out of all the Lamiglas and Okuma rods I own, the Redlines are the only ones to give me problems. I have several Okumas and my next salmon rods will likely be their Guide Select Classic.

 

Lami Redlines have a lifetime warranty, but are prorated after one year. They are using different Seaguide guides than the first models. Whether they hold up better, is yet to be seen. I don't have high hopes. The guides on the Redline in front of me, are wrapped forty five degrees off, from the backbone of the blank, causing a severe jumping problem when the rod is bent.

Friends that have had issues with Okuma's, have had no problems with warranty, so that is a plus.

 

The guides on top rods will always twist because the line naturally wants to go to the bottom everytime you load the rod, on spinning rods the guides are on the bottom already so no twist can happen. The position of the guides overrides any spine consideration everytime. Want to see what I mean, take your two piece casting rod and put it together with the top half guides down, now thread the line off your reel through the guides like normal, hold the rod by the foregrip with your palm up, and the rear grip with the palm down in front of you. Put a good bend in the rod like when your fighting a fish and than open your hands till your rod is only cradled in your hands, now release the tension on the rod, what did it do? Now load the rod again, the reel and rod rotated to the up on top position again didn't it? You could fish this rod this way forever if you wanted without hurting a thing and have a rod also that will always be stable and not fight you as long as you have a little tension on it, comes in handy if you have to net a fish by yourself. My rods will roll up and become stable with as little as 5 oz. on the bottom. The more load that is on the rod the more it locks into the upright position, this is the same load you're fighting with the guides on top everytime the rod is loaded and no amount of spine will override this effect.
Now cast the rod in both positions, if you're like me you'll notice little or no difference.

 

I'm not like you CRD4. It takes less than ten seconds to flex and mark the spine on a rod before building. Why not just do it the right way? :wink::twocents:

 

Okuma Guide Select Pro teamed with a Shimano Tekota Reel is money. I've got a lot of Rods some of which were very expensive. For the money (and warranty) Okuma Gide Select are hands down the BEST Rods I have ever owned. I see a lot of them out on the water. :flag2:

 

I see a lot of them on the water too. What’s your favorite guide select for pro trolls with 16 ounces?