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Have a 2014, 21' NR Seahawk that has few soft spots developing on the vinyl covered wood floor around the underfloor portal access covers and seams. I always store under cover and pretty much only use it spring through fall, so gets plenty of dry out time. To be honest, I'm surprised? Others I know have never had problems this soon in the boats life. I'm considering removing and trying to repair w/ wood hardener products and or bondo. Or, changing it out to an all all aluminum diamond plate floor. But with the current price of aluminum I'm thinking attempting repairs. Am I wasting time and effort repairing, or should I just go to aluminum? Would NR cover it w/ the boat being 7 yrs old? Thoughts?
 

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Surprised you’re having problems already. I have a 19’ 2005 NR Mariner that I just finished my new floor. Called Haxtons they quoted $1600. figured I could beat that. 3/4” MDO, new vinyl, 25 hours labor done $800. solid for as long as I keep the boat.
 

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Think about aluminum floors then have it Rhino lined. That's what I did. Bullet proof and your coolers and such don't slide around.
Hoses out well for clean up.
MikeN
 

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Seems odd. I’ve had a few boats.
Most have had wood floors. Never had rot problems with any of them. That said all were stored indoors. I did replace one with DP. Not because they were bad but because I thought I’d like it better. I used Koffler and they did a fantastic job but having since sold that boat and now have vinyl/wood I wouldn’t go back to DP. Wood is quieter, easier on the feet, forgiving,and not that much more difficult to clean for me. I currently have a 06 NR and zero soft spots.


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I have a 2018 Seahawk 200 hrs always stored inside with bad spots on the floor already. My next door neighbor has one with 300 hrs always garaged since new that has had the floor completely replaced. It's a common North River issue.
 

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The wood hardener and bondo most likely wouldnt work. You would have to remove the vinyl for application.

I did mine with plywood. But I cut my patterns then applied fiberglass resin to all surfaces before applying the vinyl. I expect it to outlast me!
 

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I have had 2 Seahawks. My first was an 03 that I replaced the original vinyl coated mdf floors with epoxy coated matine grade plywood and that produced a great floor. It was not all that difficult Either. Simply pull up the old floor and use the old as a template to make the new floors. Be sure to pre drill the holes And coat the holes wit’s epoxy as well. then paint with non slip paint. My 2016 seahawk came with poly (plastic) floors and they are great. They are still like new after 5 years. And I use my boat a ton. Really a great product. If you can find that product I would highly recommend it.
 

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I replaced the rotted ply floor of my first boat, an old 16’ Hewes, with diamond plate. Keep in mind, the DP is much thinner than ply so you need to do something to bring the new DP floor up to its old level.... I’m a machinist, so I went all-in and used 1/2”x2” wide solid aluminum bar stock to shim it; I put it on top of the stringers, which were 2” wide at top, drilled and tapped them, and attached with countersunk 1/4-20 stainless screws. I milled 1/4” deep, 2” wide pockets in the port > starboard stringer shims such that a similarly milled piece for the centerline stringer would fit on top and be flush. It greatly strengthened the stringers.... BUT... North River is known for stout construction under the deck; your stringers don’t need strengthened, and, even with the skills and machinery to do all that, it was a big PITA.

But the salient point is, for cosmetic reasons, you probably cannot just lay DP on your stringers and attach. At a bare minimum you’ll have an unsightly “bathtub ring”’where the top of the old floor was.

Someday, my forever boat (sic), will have factory DP floors and a self-bailing deck. And twin engines. Someday.
 
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I have a 2008 22’ NR Seahawk with original wood floors and its always outside but always covered, and I religiously use thermal convection air driers in the winter for storage. That all said I learned early that the real culprit to moisture accumulation comes from water in the bilge so I never use the wash down to clean floors until the end of the season. A 4x6 outdoor carpet mat and a really good sponge can wipe up excess blood in the kill area, and I always open up all the floor hatches and drain the water if a heavy rain occurs while fishing. I learned this early when I noticed the top deck was bone dry but when I pulled up the floor hatch to the large storage area in the deck, the underside of the flooring was completely saturated. Removal of bilge water and air circulation are your best friends.
 

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I have a 2015 21 ft seahawk
that i park inside a dry shop
We fish a lot
It has almost 1700 hrs in 5 years
I always open all the hatches and access to the bilge
I started developing soft spots after only 3 years
Got North river to supply flooring for 1/2 of the floor and i bought the other panels
A few more years and i will have to replace it all with the new I am storing
 

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I know nothing about these NorthRiver boats, but it sounds to me like an air circulation issue below deck that is causing the problem. Do you guys have bilge fans, or any air vents? If you keep the air circulation going and let wood dry out. It’s not going to rot. Food for thought…. Kirk
 

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Just seal all the edges and screw penetration points of the new wood flooring with a good wood sealer/fiberglass epoxy and the floors will last longer than you'll have the boat. All your soft spots start at cut edges or penetration points. Any outdoor rated glue plywood will work like cdx this way. Or go with something that doesn't rot.
 
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