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North River Paint Procedure

12K views 30 replies 26 participants last post by  backlash442  
#1 ·
North River would like to address a recent post regarding Paint issues.

IF YOU USE YOUR BOAT IN SALTWATER ONE TIME YOU HAVE STARTED THE SALTWATER CORISION PROCESS. IT IS NOW UP TO YOU ON HOW LONG IT TAKES FOR THE PROBLEM TO BECOME VISIBLE.

Corrosion on aluminum boats can be caused by numerous things (i.e. high PH levels because of algae bloom, high mineral content, ect…) but saltwater is the worst. Saltwater corrosion can be called several different names, but for the simplicity of this post lets just call it saltwater corrosion.

When I purchased North River Boats in 1997, I made saltwater corrosion and paint one of the issues that I wanted to improve on. North River is not alone in this issue. This issue involves anyone that builds or uses anything in a saltwater environment that is painted.

North River spends numerous hours working with representatives from BASF to try and SLOW DOWN saltwater corrosion. We yearly send samples of painted aluminum, with different types of penetrations and barriers, to a saltwater spray facility in Indiana. This facility then returns the samples for our review so that we can evaluate which barriers and methods worked the best. We also have taken samples and placed them in the water on a dock in Tacoma, Washington. Some of the samples are submerged 100% of the time, some go in and out of the water with the tide, and some are left just above the water line but in a high salt environment.

Manufacturing is a tough business with constant change. We feel that the changes made in the last couple of years have really made a major difference. We want your boat to look nice for a lot of years and work very hard to achieve this goal. We make process changes as things are discovered to make the product better and will continue to do so.

The process that is used today is very extensive compared to years past. This is the process:

1. The boat is built in the fabrication facility and is then turned over to the canvas shop.

2. We fit the canvas and drill as many holes as possible that relate to the installation of the canvas. We install and fit the top and side curtains, as well as any other canvas that requires holes to be drilled in the boat. We then drill out and remove all of the snaps and send the boat towards the paint process.

3. The boat is then put in a hallway that leads to paint. In this hallway we drill holes for the running lights, horn, doorstop, gas fill, and any other holes that can be drilled prior to the paint process.

4. The last two steps are done for one reason and one reason only. If we can paint the boat with these holes already drilled in the boat, the paint that is in these holes adds another layer of protection between any dissimilar metal and the aluminum, as well as a barrier to saltwater.

5. We used to sub contract out paint but have invested $775,000 in paint equipment so that we can paint the boats with the best equipment and processes available. The boats are painted and baked at 135 – 145 degrees (surface tempature) for 20 minutes. This puts a cure of 30 days of normal drying time on the new paint.

6. The boat then heads to the rigging department where everything is bolted on. Anything that goes on the boat is coated with silicone before it is placed on the boat. Every snap is filled with silicone; rubber grommets are used wherever possible. All grounding is done back to one or two buss bars that are grounded to the battery. Any new holes drilled are filled with silicone.

We have moved the paint line on fully painted boats to be 1/8” above the chine. Saltwater can get trapped in the area between the aluminum sheet and the chine and can creep under the paint. Where the gunwale extrusion and gunwale interlock we have welded this closed so that no saltwater can get trapped in this area. We also follow the paint process that BASF has outlined for us to use.

Because of all of these improvements all boats built after January 1, 2004 have had a one-year warranty from BASF and North River Boats on any paint related issues above the water line. This warranty covers saltwater corrosion as well, however it does not cover issues relating to aftermarket related items or holes drilled by the consumer. These items had to be excluded because people do not use enough barrier protection and improper electronic installation and grounding.

Saltwater corrosion is very easy to spot. It is usually always located around a point of penetration in the paint or a place where the paint has been removed or scratched. Most bubbles are uneven and when popped have salt crystals inside. Improper paint adhesion is much easier to spot and the paint usually comes off in sheets.

What do you do if you think you have a paint issue? Call the North River customer service number (Please no non sponsor contact info) and talk to the customer service representative. He will set up an appointment for you to bring the boat to a retail store so that a North River Representative and a BASF representative can look at the boat and see what the issue is.

After determining what the issue is we can figure out how to resolve the problem.

We have had very few problems with the paint not adhering to the boat and most issues are saltwater corrosion related. One thing that should be pointed out is that once this problem starts it is virtually impossible to stop by touching up specific areas because it just starts somewhere else. For us to give a price to repair some of the older boats we have to see the boat in Roseburg. The paint shop and rigging shop supervisor need to see the boat and the work involved in repairing the boat. We have been doing the repairs on the older boats at cost plus 5%.

When you remove your boat from use in saltwater or brackish water you need to spend two hours giving it a bath with soap and water. If you leave the ramp and drive home it is too late. Once the saltwater dries it is usually trapped and the process has started. Moorage is also a very bad idea with an aluminum boat. Most of the docks that have electricity put off some type of electrical charge into the water. This just speeds up the process.

With the current diversity in the Northwest fisheries, North River continues to research and develop newer and better ways to develop saltwater friendly products.


North River Boats, Inc.
 
#2 ·
Two hours!! YOUCH! What could I possibly wash for two hours? Are you saying just keep washing it over and over? I don’t think that the 6 new hose bibs that they installed at south beach in Newport is going to cut it. :grin:
 
#8 ·
Brian,

Thanks for the information. I have a Trapper ordered (I can hardly wait for it) with you and was trying to explain to my wife why we wouldn't be able to use it in the brackish water of the coastal bays. I now have a better understanding as does she. After reading your post I have decided to simply use the Trapper in freshwater only. Thanks for the valuable information.
 
#10 ·
So tell us about the actuall paint process? What kind of aluminum conversion coating is Northriver using? Are you using a two-part epoxy undercoat. Is NorthRiver using a Urathane or Poly Urathane top coat?

I am happy to see that you are drilling as many of the holes as posible. Eliminating paint bruising will defently help keep the paint from lifting.

I thought the Clackamas location was taking care of your canvas?

suckerfish
 
#11 ·
Brian,
Great reply. Keep up the good work. I don't own a Northriver, but I have fantasized. I do own another popular brand of jetboat and have fished in fresh and salt water now for about 15 years. It has given me lots of fishing enjoyment with very few problems and still looks great. Its retained its value very well unlike a car.I'm under the impression that for 99% of people your boat will rot in your driveway long before you will ever wear it out.That being said if I did own one I would use it in the salt if thats where the fish are. Its like buying a 4 wheel drive suv for skiing but you won't take it in the snow? Don't get me wrong. You pay alot of money and its your choice but you buy a fishing boat to fish. So go fish. You only live once. So live. Just spend the time at the car wash taking care of it afterwards.In some respects its a maintenance issue just like greasing wheel bearings. If its a warranty issue give the manufacturer due process in the issue. :cheers:
 
#13 ·
:applause: :applause: :applause: :applause:
I spend 2 hours cleaning my boat with soap and water. I use a weed sprayer and fill it with warm soapy water (LEMON JOY) of course :grin: and I spray down every square inch inside and out, and then I grab the old wash mitt and away I go. I also use alot of water in the wrinse down process, I have a well, for anyone concerned about the drought :wave: I have an open boat so washing every square inch is a little easyer. I like my stuff to stay SWEET :grin: I wonder if Lemon Joy would make moby dick swollow my boat? :bigshock:
 
#14 ·
You have to spend 2 hours washing a boat immediately after saltwater fishing just so the paint doesnt fall off? You kidding right? :jester:

No really, your kidding? :shrug:
 
#15 ·
Brian,
I must be ignorant or lucky (maybe both). I've used my 2000 NR Mariner in salt and freshwater going on 5 years. I've seen no paint problems. I have always rinsed the hull and flushed the Yamaha ob's. Not for 2hrs and not always right after getting out of the water, I was more worried about the motors but I've seen no real corrosion problems. I continue to be impressed and happy with my NR.
 
#16 ·
Was the original reason for the post dealt with and did NR indeed stand behind the product?

As long as you take care of your boat there is no reason why you shouldn't/can't use it in salt or brackish water. Spending 2 hours washing the boat sounds about right depending on size and what type of fishing though. After a tuna trip (successful) it could take over 2 hours with 4 guys cleaning. Trip out to the harbor even by myself wouldn't take 2 hours and I'm anal.
 
#18 ·
I will probably have my tuna carked before the mafia gets their boats washed up so they can start carking :jester: :jester:

I might even moor my boat in all the slips vacated by the painted wanna be's. :wink:

Thanks for leaving the carking station open for the rest of us :applause: :applause:

Somebody turn on the green lights, I am gonna sell the man a green suit. :rolleyes:



Team soap and water :hoboy:


:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :
 
#23 ·
Brian: I am a little confused by your statement:

"IF YOU USE YOUR BOAT IN SALTWATER ONE TIME YOU HAVE STARTED THE SALTWATER CORISION PROCESS. IT IS NOW UP TO YOU ON HOW LONG IT TAKES FOR THE PROBLEM TO BECOME VISIBLE.

Corrosion on aluminum boats can be caused by numerous things (i.e. high PH levels because of algae bloom, high mineral content, ect…) but saltwater is the worst. Saltwater corrosion can be called several different names, but for the simplicity of this post lets just call it saltwater corrosion"

Is this true of all al. boats or just the NR with the BASF paint?.

Reason I ask is that I just bought a 2001 smokercraft lodge series which is made of a lighter al than NR. I think the sides are only .065 inch.

The boat is painted from the factory and the guy I bought it from has used it mainly in salt water. I see that there are several rust spots on the trailer and some of the bolts show rust. I just looked at the boat hull looking for anytype of corrosion and I am not see any visible signs. The paint is rubbed off in several places from rubbing against docks so there are many places that the salt water can come into contact with the hull.

So, can I expect with my thinner hull to eventually see it corroide away. If so, what steps can I take to prevent this? Or is this a problem with the NR paint process with BASF? Thanks for any light you can shed on this.

Giz...

PS. I fish with a fellow Ifisher who has a 1988 Alumaweld that is painted. He uses it every year for a week or two at Bouy 10, never washes it and the paint/hull other than scrapes and fading does not appear to show any corrosion.
 
#25 ·
Brian thank you for your responce on this issue. As a owner of a business I can appreciate having to field questions like this. :applause:

Simply Saltwater=Corrosion period when it comes to metal or aluminum surfaces. It takes a great deal of care to make sure you boats do not turn into dust each year especially if you run in the salt (same is true with tupperware boats and metal/aluminum parts). Hopefully none of you are using washdown system in your sleds out in the salt. :bigshock: :smirk: I could certainly see expedicious corrosion happening while blindly squirting your buddy who is sleeping at the rod holder. :laugh:

At any rate, Piling on here does nothing but tick people off so lets just say that we all should spend time washing our boats. Especially you Roy! Ultra Lemon Joy! :laugh: :jester: :flowered:
 
#26 ·
I am very actively researching the best process for painting aluminum since the SCULPIN is about to get'er done. Here is part of what I found:

"On Protection And Coatings
Aluminum alloys for use on boats are generally limited to the 5000 and 6000 series. These two alloy groups are both corrosion resistant in the marine environment due to the formation of a tough aluminum oxide.

Aluminum alloys are subject to crevice corrosion, since they depend on the presence of oxygen to repair themselves. What this means is that wherever aluminum is in contact with anything, even another piece of aluminum or zinc, it must be painted with an adhesive waterproof paint such as epoxy, or it must be protected with a waterproof adhesive bedding, or both. A plastic wafer alone as an isolator is not enough. Salt water must be prevented from entering the crevice; otherwise corrosion will result.

Aluminum is very active galvanically and will sacrifice itself to any other metal it contacts either directly or indirectly. Aluminum is anodic to everything except zinc and magnesium, and must be electrically isolated from other metals. In this case, paint, bedding, and a non-conductive plastic or rubber isolator should all be used together. Unlike tankers, small metal boats are not designed with an appreciable corrosion allowance.

In terms of the paint system, aluminum boats are dealt with more easily than steel boats. Aluminum must be painted wherever things are mounted to the aluminum surface, and below the waterline if left in the water year-round. Otherwise, marine aluminum alloys do not require painting at all.

Present technology for protecting metal boats is plain and simple: epoxy paint. Once the metal is protected with a 12- to 16-mil dry-film thickness of epoxy, it can then be top coated with whatever is appropriate to the situation.

For anti-fouling paint, the excellent offerings from the E-Paint Company should be of interest to metal-boat owners. Called "No-Foul," these paints release hydrogen peroxide to prevent marine growth, eliminating the inherent problems that accompany copper-based paints on aluminum hulls.

Whether on steel or on aluminum surfaces, paint preparation is critical. Thorough cleaning and sandblasting provide the best surface for adhesion of paint or bedding. Alternately for aluminum, cleaning and then grinding with a coarse 16-grit disk will provide enough tooth for the paint to stay put. If the surface finish must be extra fine, as on an aluminum spar, then a thorough sanding, cleaning and etching with a product like Alodine before painting will give good results.

The interior of an aluminum boat does not require painting. It would be the ultimate, though, to epoxy prime the interior if a blown-in urethane foam will be used. A chromated vinyl-acid "wash primer" would be a very acceptable second choice inside, in order to provide the best surface for adhesion for the foam.

Regardless of the bottom paint used, zincs must be used to control stray-current corrosion, to which we can become victim with a metal boat, even without an electrical system! With a scratch at the bow, and another at the stern, the boat itself becomes the preferred path for any ambient currents in the water. In the best of all possible worlds, there would be no stray currents in our harbors, but that is not reality.

Zinc anodes should always be used on an aluminum boat, and generally in the same quantities as with a steel boat, in order to prevent stray-current corrosion. The quantity and placement of zincs are discovered by experiment over time, and will differ from one marina to the next.

As an example, on a 40-foot metal hull, the best scheme is to start with two zincs forward, two aft, and one on each side of the rudder. With a larger boat, say over 45 feet, an additional pair of zincs amidships would be appropriate. Surface area, not zinc volume, is the important factor.
After the first few months, inspect the zincs. If they appear active but plenty of material remains, the zincs are doing their job. If they are seriously wasted, the area as well as the weight of zinc should be increased.

Of course, welding zincs on is best, but for an aluminum boat, the zincs will instead usually be bolted to studs welded onto the hull plate, or bolted using stainless bolts into a heavy bolting plate welded to the hull. Good electrical connection between the zinc and the hull is imperative."

Does North River use a product like Alodine to acid etch before painting? Does North River use a two part epoxy paint? What are the steps and the process?

My boat will be sitting in the salt for 2-3 months a year. Suggestions?