[Killertraylor]

I hope this is fishing related - my boat sits in the Pole Barn and is the sole reason I built it, so I hope that counts.

I just finished construction on a 30x36 pole barn at my home in Warren (by St. Helens) to cover up my boat. I have a good gravel base surrounded by pressure treated 2x6 and just need to pave it with a 4" slab of concrete. My neighbor across the street is putting one up too and said he found a guy who will pave it at $1.85 a square foot (which comes to $1998 - that price doesn't include rebar). I know nothing about pavement and had a hard time getting some quotes over the phone from guys in the yellow pages. I know that the concrete alone would cost me $1100. Can anyone here help shed some light on the topic? Is that a good deal? Anyone had this done recently and have a recommendation? Also, do I need rebar, steel mesh or fiberglass in it? My boat weighs about 4000 lbs and I park my truck in there too - about 5000 lbs for the truck. If there's a concrete guy here who could supervise the labor part maybe we could work out a trade for some fishing trips???

Thanks in advance for your help, and my apologies in advance, Jen if this isn't sufficiently fishing related.

 

[5-Cents]

Here is an idea for ya... why dont you just keep the floor gravel and use the $2000 for that TR-1 :shocked:

:tongue: :grin:

 

[Killertraylor]

That's truly a toss-up for me at this point, Shane, but I can get the wife to spring for concrete so I think that's going to win. Nice jab though... :cheers:

 

[Fast Water]

I don't know the cost of concrete but $83 bucks a yard seems expensive, and then 900 for the finish work. :shocked:

4" of concrete is pretty sturdy. I would not bother with anything more than a bit of fiberglass.

:smile:

 

[bllelk]

KT

I just put down -3/4" gravel for my parking pad at Columbia City. Bought it at Scappoose Gravel $20.00 a Yard. It packs real nice especially if you wet it down.

Just another idea.

 

[Killertraylor]

Thanks Bill - I've got 7 truck loads (about 84 yards at $130 a truckload) of gravel in there (we had to excavate first and then I filled it in). It works fine, but I want a slab.

 

[RogueFishr]

ask around and try to find an independent concrete guy to work the concrete for you (not someone the concrete company has). Whoever you get should be able to order the right mix and amount of concrete for you also. You can save a little money if you form it up yourself too, but its probably not a significant amount. I poured a 40x38 slab for my shop and the concrete guys only charged me $300 to work it and they did an excellent job. They ordered the concrete for me and got me a break on the price there too (as well as specifying the mix I needed). I had it formed already and I laid the rebar. Rebar is cheap if you can do it yourself, but I don't know how neccessary it really is for what you are doing. I wouldn't go any thinner than 3-4 inches though if you are going to be driving on it. 4 inches is pretty standard I think.

RF

 

[Guest]

Price is high.
I'd use fiberglass with wire mesh, rebar isn't needed here. When Nerta gets home I'll have him give you his cost estimate (he does 100's of yards or more a year)

 

[Chris Nordling]

Long before I was a fishing guide, I spent over 20 years working with concrete flatwork, even owning a company for 5 years.

For a good concrete floor, try 3000psi mix, with fiber mesh added in the mix. The addtional cost will be a mere 5 or 6 bucks yard extra, and will save you painful hours tying rebar.The strength will be just as great if you use rebar. The initial finish to the floor will be a little fibery,but that will wear off with traffic.

Depending on who brings the mix,and how far away from the plant you are, could determine the price per yard. On average, you have it figured about right for cost of materials, but you also need to include some cash for the fellas pouring and finishing the slab.

If you need some more info, feel free to contact me at [email protected].

My dad and brother still finish concrete daily, and I've been known to miss a day of fishing to help out. Pops has been in business since '87.

Hope this helps,
Chris

[ 05-27-2003, 04:19 PM: Message edited by: FWF1 ]

 

[Tunamaster]

J -
Give my brother Andrew a call at Lower Columbia Engineering in St. Helens at 503-366-0399. I'm not sure if you have met him before or not. He specializes in structures. He is your neighbor Miles' brother-in-law. I called him for you. He will give you some free pointers and steer you to the best value local concrete man for a price quote. I know he'd like to help out a fellow fisherman AND BEAV.

- Sean
"GO BEAVS!"

 

[WaterDog]

Any OSU CE or CEM grads out there get a chuckle out of this? :laugh:

FWF1 says:

pour cement

<font size="2" face="verdana,arial,helvetica">I bet Prof. Phelps is having a cow right now. :grin:

Chris, not making fun of ya but in a CE Materials class we were told at nausium that you never "pour cement", you "place concrete".

Reading this post was giving me some flashbacks.......... :wink:

 

[Chris Nordling]

Waterdog-

Guess that's the difference of opening a book and teaching from it, versus 20 years of hands on work.

Placing cement, sounds like I'm unloading it with a hand truck, and setting it onto the dirt. Last I checked things that were made with some portion of water could be "poured" from the container in which it is contained.

If the old prof wants to come screed and float a slab sometime, would love to see it ! Most of those old dudes couldn't finish their way out of a paper bag :shocked: :wink: .

:tongue:

Edit-- Waterdog, let me by you a Virtual adult beverage, and place it into the glass :cheers: :wink: , while I pour myself one as well

Good fishing and cement placing,
Chris

[ 05-27-2003, 03:08 PM: Message edited by: FWF1 ]

 

[Mr. Carp]

WaterDog, I was busting up laughing at that also. You would get laughed out of a CE class for saying that. Not to poke fun FWF1, but you pour a slab of concrete. Cement is what holds it together. Concrete is the whole mixture. That is like saying I eat a loaf of flour instead of bread. Just my $0.02.

 

[WaterDog]

Mr. Carp - :laugh:

Chris - thanks for the virtual adult beverage. :cheers: The hopps were a little dry without the water tho'. :wink:

 

[Chris Nordling]

Whatever & Whoops ! I should have written pour concrete, not cement. My bad. :shrug: :blush:

I'm still very happy to be retired from that industry and into another.

Are there any proper terms for bonking fish that I should know about??

Chris

Edit- WD :grin: Ready for another, with H2O this time tho...?

[ 05-27-2003, 04:21 PM: Message edited by: FWF1 ]

 

[Seefood Man]

My neighbor is a flat worker and does very nice work. My idea is 4" with fiber mesh. Drop me your phone# and I'll pass it on to him.

 

[Tyee II]

Hi Joe
I know a couple of concrete guys in your area that you may want to talk to. One of them did all of all of the flat work at my place and I can personally say that he does good work and I beleive that he is reasonably priced.E mail me if you would like names and I can give you a call.

Mike Bradley

 

[SouthCoastStu]

Killertraylor-

As far a reinforcing goes here are my thoughts for what it's worth. Reinforcing can serve two purposes, first to control the expansion/contraction of the concrete due to temperature change, reducing cracking (heat steel). Second, to bridge over any soft spots in the soil under the slab.

To meet the ACI Building Code requirement (not that I'm saying you need to for your project) for heat steel you would need #3's(3/8") @ 13" on center, or #4's (1/2") @ 25" on center. How was the soil, crushed rock compacted? How much cracking are you willing to accept? It's really up to you. Like a Prof. of mine said "there are two types of concrete, that that's cracked, and that that's going to crack"

The thing I don't like about mesh is that it tends to get pushed to the bottom of the slab during pouring (whoops! placing). If it doesn't get lifted back up it ends up at the bottom and does very little good.

The large slabs I've seen and owned with the glass reinforcing tended to crack quite a bit (usually small), but I don't now if the subgrade was compacted very well or not.


$90/ cubic yard is a pretty fair price for delivered concrete (2,500-3,000 psi) for areas I've worked, lived. You'll need about 13 CY's. 13X$90=$1,170 for the concrete leaves $828 for the forming/working/finish work, which seems kind of high to me.

Hope this helps, or at least doesn't confuse.......

[ 05-27-2003, 04:42 PM: Message edited by: DiamondBack ]

 

[SHLEPROCK]

Killertraylor
I have a few years of building pole barns.
We put 6 inch wire mesh in the the floors.
Put some slope toward the front for drainage.
The fiberglass goes under the rock if you have mud.
Be sure that your treated skirts are high enough to be above the concrete.

 

[Killertraylor]

Wow! Thanks everyone for your replies (and glad I could make a few of you think back to your engineering school days). I'll call Andrew, Sean and see what he has to say. You guys have all the connections around here!

I got a quote this afternoon from Morse Bros. out here in Deer Island for $837 for 13.5 yards of 3000 psi mud. I've got a great foundation with twenty four cubic yards of 3" and another 40 cubic yards of 3/4 minus on top. I did find a guy in the Seattle area (friend of a friend) who said I should pay no more than .50 cents a square foot for labor which works out to about $550. If that's true, I should be able to get the total job (labor and concrete)done for about $1400. Mike - I'll shoot you an email. Keta - thanks, and I'll await Nerta's e-mail. Chris - if you're serious about doing the labor, give me a call at 503-803-5988 and let me know your price. Again - thank you everyone for your help!

[ 05-27-2003, 05:32 PM: Message edited by: Killertraylor ]