Fun stuff. I would have gone absolutely crazy not having a rod when the water looks like that though. Just seeing a pic is making me want to put my waders on

 

I think you are smart getting some rowing experience before fishing out of it. But you can do both pretty easily by just not fishing and rowing at the same time. Run the rapids, then pull over and drift fish a bit here and there. Running plugs in those tail outs and long slots while oaring will come with time and experience.

Just learning to read water is a big deal, and using shorter power strokes in shallow fast moving water, or even just dragging an oar, or dipping an oar to keep your direction steady is something you'll learn to do too.... Just try and keep from pulling too far and getting those oars pointed down stream in the tail out, or oaring down stream facing forward. Never dip an oar pointed down stream in the tail out or rapids. You'll figure out why real quick when you catch a rock and it pops that oar right out of the oar locks, and clobbers you. or worse yet you loose the oar right before going into the rapids.

Rest assured it will all happen eventually, and you learn real quickly not to do THAT again....LOL

Have fun with it! Kirk

 

I think you are smart getting some rowing experience before fishing out of it. But you can do both pretty easily by just not fishing and rowing at the same time. Run the rapids, then pull over and drift fish a bit here and there.

Silly question, but I'm guessing you drop anchor when you pull over to drift fish the tail out?

 

Great picture. Now needs you in it with a shiny fish.

 

Dropping anchor does make me a little nervous but it's something I'm looking forward to learning. This last weekend, I practiced dropping it in a very, very shallow sandbar, like 2 ft of depth just to play with the cleat/rope/anchor system and get more comfortable with it. So far, I've kept the anchor in the bolted on anchor seat, inside the boat while floating. I haven't yet let it dangle off the back like I see others doing. I'm sure the cleat system works, but it hasn't full earned my trust yet lol.

There were a few posts in the first thread about anchors coming loose in fast water and causing a lot of trouble. For that reason, I'm not letting it dangle for a bit. That said, I'll practice anchoring and floating a bobber or drifting in some water. Pumped to learn the plug game too, that will be great rowing practice.

 

There were a few posts in the first thread about anchors coming loose in fast water and causing a lot of trouble. For that reason, I'm not letting it dangle for a bit. That said, I'll practice anchoring and floating a bobber or drifting in some water.

As long as your rope is sized to match the jam cleat, you can trust the jam cleat.
Taking the anchor in and out of the nest would be a PITA.
When releasing out of a jam cleat, pull the rope back slightly to get it free of the "teeth" and then lift up and clear of the cleat.
If you rip straight up you'll damage the rope each time.

 

It is a good safety practice to secure the anchor when going through fast water. If I don't bring the anchor inboard I at least tie the rope off at the cleat so it won't accidentally release.

Droppping Anchor.....you are going to get a "hangup" eventually. In slow water you can generally row back over the anchor and lift it out of the catch. In faster water you will most likely need help. What I have done is have another person in the boat stand behind me, let out as much anchor rope as you can or around 30 to 50 feet. Then while you row upstream as hard as I can have the other person pull on the anchor rope in as hard as they can. The speed and inertia you both create will often take you up stream and over the anchor where it will come loose....if it is only locked in rocks. If it is tangeled in roots or something this may not work. Just a reminder.....do not tie a knot in the end of the anchor line or in any way secure it so it can't feed out. If you can't free the anchor you should have a sharp knife (preferably serrated edge) to cut the anchor free and at least save the rope.

 

I'll remember this as I start to practice releasing the anchor. I would have most likely cut my anchor line too soon out of abundance of caution, so it's nice to have some pointers on how to free the snag. Sounds similar to freeing a weight snag while drift fishing, just from a boat and with another person .

 

Going old school and pulling plugs can help you learn to row and control your boat. Getting proficient at that in different types of current (insert squirrelly water) will pay dividends. Chinook love a kwik fish backtrolled behind a diver.

 

Pulling plugs out in front of a DB is definitely one of my favorite ways to fish, that takedown in moving water is really tough to beat for an adrenaline rush. 😲❤

 

Following thread, popcorn in hand... Nice to see you gettin' out there. You've more experience than I at the moment.

 

Make sure when you get out of your boat to walk the bank and fish your boat is good and secure with anchor and tied up.
years back on the Clackamas I help retrieve drift boat with no one in it. swift water rescue did a search and found out that boat blew off bank. left the fisherman just seeing his boat drift away.

 

This ^^^
When beaching the DB, pull the boat up so it's grounded (if possible) then take the anchor and set it 8 feet or so up the beach. Take up rope slack and lock the rope into the cleat.
That way if a boat wake hit's it, the boat can't drift away.

 

Give the bank maggots room as most new guides will try to crowd them.
I've been rowing for 60 years but my broken down body won't let now.

fop

 

This launch method is not recommended...

 

Going old school and pulling plugs can help you learn to row and control your boat. Getting proficient at that in different types of current (insert squirrelly water) will pay dividends. Chinook love a kwik fish backtrolled behind a diver.

Agree on this. Definitely teaches you boat control and how it will the affect the lines. Did this first few times with no expectation of fish. Call it a visual trainer as it provides visual feedback on how straight you’re actually going and what different movements do.

 

Something else to think about once you get your confidence going with rowing and start using your anchor a lot more, is how you rig your anchor line, and what you do with the extra rope. Personally I never anchored much in deep water, and rarely had more than a 50’ anchor line. The first couple boats I had I didn’t use a pulley system, and had to twist around in my seat to handle the anchor line and the jam cleat located in the back of the boat.

Then I took a couple trips with guys that had their anchor rope run under the rowers seat to a pulley with the jam cleat right between your legs on the floor. That made a huge difference to me, and I rigged my next two boats that way after that. When I was plug fishing and got a fish on, I could easily pick up the rod in one hand, and drop anchor with the other without any contortions.

This will give you an idea what I’m talking about.

 

Something else to think about once you get your confidence going with rowing and start using your anchor a lot more, is how you rig your anchor line, and what you do with the extra rope. Personally I never anchored much in deep water, and rarely had more than a 50’ anchor line. The first couple boats I had I didn’t use a pulley system, and had to twist around in my seat to handle the anchor line and the jam cleat located in the back of the boat.

Then I took a couple trips with guys that had their anchor rope run under the rowers seat to a pulley with the jam cleat right between your legs on the floor. That made a huge difference to me, and I rigged my next two boats that way after that. When I was plug fishing and got a fish on, I could easily pick up the rod in one hand, and drop anchor with the other without any contortions.

This will give you an idea what I’m talking about.

I see more of the pulley systems routed along the side so it’s not in the way of yer feet. Especially true if your boat is laid out to seat another body aft of the rower.

 

Btw…. That wasn’t the anchor I used on the river setting in the boat. I used a pyramid lead anchor.

 

Yep, the "side pull" anchor system is a common layout these days.
I like how you can throw your back into it when pulling anchor.

The "center pull" anchor systems, depending on how it's laid out, can create a "no stow" area wherever it is routed.
And stowage space is at a premium in a DB.
Also the Bo's center pull system can freeze up if water gets into the tubing that the system uses.
BTDT

 

I’ve haven’t seen a side pulley set up myself. That would be better. you are right about the center mount like mine taking some getting used to and not tripping over it. But I rarely found myself standing up fishing in that little 14’ boat. So it was a non issue for me.

That little wood boat was a dream to oar. She moved like a skipper bug across those tail outs effortlessly, and I could run plugs quite well with it. I ran solo a lot with it, and never more than 2 in that boat.

A huge factor was upgrading my oars to the carbon fiber balanced oars. It wasn’t cheap buying them, but having oars that lift out of the water and balance perfectly just with the weight of your arms is a game changer. When I first looked at them and felt the actual weight of the oar in my hands I was skeptical. They were much heavier than any wood oar I ever had…. But the salesman had me get into a drift boat that they had on display and get a feel for them…. I was shocked at the difference. .02 cents worth.

 

UPDATE:

I've now taken the boat on 3 floats down the upper Rogue and am starting to get a lot more confident rowing. The first float was just my wife and I, didn't bring any rods on that trip but had an awesome time floating with just her. We have young kids so time to ourselves is at a premium. The next float I did solo and actually got to fish. I didn't catch anything but I dropped anchor in 5 or 6 different places and started getting used to how it feels. The third float was with 2 buddies and while we didn't catch anything on that trip either, it was a blast! Now that I have a little more experience I have a few questions:

1. When dropping my 30lb pyramid anchor, I let out about 10-15 feet, then hold the rope firm, while still letting some rope slowly slide out until it catches and stops the boat. Then I put my oars in the oar locks and in the water to help the boat stay straight. Sometimes I see a spot I want to anchor in and if it doesn't catch, then I'm ahead of where I'd like to be. The anchor will tick along the bottom for 30-50 feet before it stops the boat. Is there a way to get the boat to stop quicker or is that normal? Am I stopping the boat correctly?

2. I'm trying to learn how to fish plugs from the anchored position. I put the plug in the water, lift the rod up, watch it dive down, then slowly let line out while keeping my thumb on the spool to keep it slow. Once I've got it far enough in front of the boat, I put it in the rod holder and wait. I've noticed the plug will dive for a minute or two, then it will be on the surface of the water. I'm using a baitcaster reel, a 1 piece, 8ft rod, loaded with 50lb braided line with a 15-20ft fluorocarbon bumber tied via an Alberto knot. So no swivels or weight, just the line and the plug. Does that just happen sometimes or am I doing something wrong? Should I be using a weight or possibly a diver in front of the plug to keep it low? I'm using Maglips 3.5 and a K11 Kwikfish.

Thank you guys for the help!

 

The trick to anchoring safely is to plan ahead and slow the boat down. Drop anchor well above where you want the boat to actually sit on the river surface. As soon as you let out enough rope (at least 4x the depth) then put the rope in the cleat and start slowing the boat again. You have to give the anchor time to catch - especially if it's swift. Of course if it's very slow water things are a lot easier.

As far as the plug fishing goes.... it's art and skill on the oars. I've never pulled plugs from anchor. I don't see why you would want to. But, maybe I'm just old school.

One thing to always remember about rowing streams - the current is never the same speed on each side of the boat. One oar is always going to feel like it is fighting more current than the other. Especially when rowing through rocks in white water.

 

I will add, you don’t want to drag the anchor. If it doesn’t catch right away I would pull it. Easy way to get it lodged between boulders or a crevice and you won’t be able to pull it out.

 

TO RB's point, I've always had enough rope so that I can get upstream of the anchor if need be in case it does get stuck. I also tend avoid anchoring in swift water.
Unless I'm back bouncing, I tend to use the oars to plug fish and cover water.

 

I’d have to echo marine marks post on getting that anchor out well above where you want to fish. Get your anchor set in the hole, and just let out rope to get closer to the tail out where you want your plugs running.

I’d recommend reading a bunch of “Plugs” posts. He runs plugs on anchor a lot in the CR. Maybe rattle his cage and get some info on dropper length and determining weight size for different conditions. Most guys use a dropper and lead to get their plugs where they want them on anchor, but some use jet divers too….

When I anchor fished from my drift boat occasionally, I never used dropper weights and fished the tail outs where the water wasn’t deep…. If it’s not staying down, you typically need to get more line out and are fishing too close to the boat. But once you get used to running plugs and running the oars together, you can cover more water tacking back and forth in those long tail outs. You just gotta be careful after you hook a fish and decide whether it’s safe to drop anchor, or haul ass to shore to fight your fish. Dragging an anchor down through the rapids is a bad scene waiting to happen. I highly recommend having a sheathed knife on your belt at all times, or a neck knife handy. I also mount a razor sharp knife at arms reach from the oar seat on the gunnel. In emergency situations loosing an anchor is better than loosing your life…. If you slip into the rapids dragging an anchor it can end badly……. Food for thought.

 

...Dragging an anchor down through the rapids is a bad scene waiting to happen. I highly recommend having a sheathed knife on your belt at all times, or a neck knife handy. I also mount a razor sharp knife at arms reach from the oar seat on the gunnel. In emergency situations loosing an anchor is better than loosing your life…. If you slip into the rapids dragging an anchor it can end badly……. Food for thought.

Noted!

 

Think about where you are going to drop hook.
I try to anchor in "soft water" (and shallow water) be it above or beside where I want to fish.
Out of the traffic lane and not centered on the hole on a busy river (don't be that guy).

 

You want to leave the oars in the oar locks when anchored. Make sure the oar blades are turned directly perpendicular to the water surface and they will act like little rutters up against your boat and keep you from swaying around in the current. Sometimes they work them selves flat to water surface and you will start to sway but just give them a slight adjustment and you will stay steady again.

 

On the pulling plugs part, start with your rod in the rod holder with the plug hanging down from the tip a foot or so or reeled up to the swivel, but not hanging in the water. Position your boat above where you want to start fishing about 40 feet. Open your bail and let the plug float out on the surface about 40 feet minimum. Reengage the bail and the plug should dive right down unless it is fowled on its self. If it is surfacing that means it is either not tuned correctly or fowled. Fix it and start again. Once you get the hang of it you can deeply your own rod while rowing and not lose your position in the current. Slowly back your plugs down stream. You should control your pace downstream rather than the current. If you need help judging distance, use a bobber stop thread on your line at the appropriate distance and reengage your bail when you see the bobber stop thread at your rod tip.

 

K11s in metallic gold or metallic red are money on summer steelhead but also a little finicky to tune.

 

UPDATE:

I've been on 15-20 floats by now, all over the upper and middle Rogue and I'm having an absolute blast. I'm getting more comfortable on the oars and each time I learn something that benefits me for the next trip. I've caught fish using my tried and true techniques of bobber fishing and throwing hardware, but I'm really hoping to catch more fish on plugs. I've been fishing Maglip 3.0 and 3.5s and K14's recently for springers. I've switched out the trebles for single siwashes.

I've got three, one piece, 8ft plug rods and fish them with bait caster reels (braided line with a 20lb flouro bumper) with a bobber stop at 50ft. I usually fish 2 rods at a time with different color plugs. This weekend I tried wrapping maglips and a K14 with canned tuna in oil this weekend. Action seemed good but no bites. I have just a few clarifying questions for you seasoned plug fisherman.

1. Do you typically just run them plain or do you scent them or wrap with bait?

2. When it comes to wrapping a plug with bait, how long do you fish it for? When do you re-wrap?

2. Do you typically freeline them or should I be using a dropper with a small weight?

Thanks for the help!