Does it have a themo couple or any type of millivolt generator?

 

It has a thermocouple. However, for igniting, you depress the pilot knob, which (I believe) allows the propane to flow through the pilot tube, thus overriding the thermocouple until you stop depressing the pilot knob. -I could be wrong on this idea, though.

Spark is generated just like a BBQ igniter. It's working fine.

The problem is, there is no propane getting through the pilot tube. I believe these units have a built-in propane regulator. Perhaps it's not regulating.

 

Have had mine for three years and it works great, sorry for your troubles. Have you called the manufacturer?

 

I will call them Monday - They are closed now.

 

Mine is a little fussy if I put a new tank on it and too much air gets into the system. I just push the nob down and hold it for 20-30 seconds to get the gas flowing through the pilot.

Did you store it with a bottle on it? If not, it could have rusted or gotten dirt/insects in the line.

 

Mine is a little fussy if I put a new tank on it and too much air gets into the system. I just push the nob down and hold it for 20-30 seconds to get the gas flowing through the pilot.

Did you store it with a bottle on it? If not, it could have rusted or gotten dirt/insects in the line.

I store it with the bottle on; never without.

 

Use a lighter to manually light it, if it lights your thermocouple is bad. thermocouple is only for pilot, same as water heater.

 

I tried this. I even tried heating-up the thermocouple. There is a tiny bit of propane that comes through if I hold the pilot down for a minute or more. This ignites, but it is a very tiny flame, and quickly disappears into the pilot light tube.

 

Mine did the same thing last 2 years. I took a lighter and held it to the pilot with the knob pushed down and pilot on. As soon as it was heated up and lit by the lighter, it worked fine.

 

Check the little copper tube and make sure its not pinched or bent if it is replace it ! very simple system

 

This unit does not have a copper tube that is not shielded by the unit's housing. Nothing is external/exposed.

 

Have you been using it with the disposable bottles or have you connected it to a 5 gallon tank with a hose? If you are using a hose to connect to a tank, you need to use a filter because propane reside builds up in the hose which will clog some of the parts in the stove. I use a filter, and I always shut the heater off by closing the propane valve instead of turning it off with the switch - that way it can burn the reside out of the hose. You can buy the filters at stores that sell the heater ($10.00). If you are using the disposable bottles you don't need the filter.

 

Have you been using it with the disposable bottles or have you connected it to a 5 gallon tank with a hose? If you are using a hose to connect to a tank, you need to use a filter because propane reside builds up in the hose which will clog some of the parts in the stove. I use a filter, and I always let shut the stove off by closing the propane valve instead of turning off the stove with the switch - that way it can burn the reside out of the hose. You can buy the filters at stores that sell the heater ($10.00). If you are using the disposable bottles you don't need the filter.

I'm using a brand-new composite (fiberglass) 2 gallon propane bottle and new hose.

OK, so maybe not using a filter is the issue... now what?

 

My Heater:

From left to right: Thermocouple, igniter, pilot tube

 

If you use a bulk tank then you will need one of these.


$7.49

 

mine quit working during deer season when i got home i use my compresor and blew it out and its worked great give that a try

 

Thanks, but I have already tried that. I connected a tiny tube to my air compressor nozzle, and inserted it into the pilot light tube and blew it out. I also blew air in the tiny hole in the tube that inserts into the propane tank. I depressed the pilot knob while doing this, so the air could pass through the regulator (if it can). ...Nothing.

 

This may sound stupid but always check this,,,be sure the hose is all the way in tank or heater. Might try leaving hose in tank and taking loose from heater and turning on to see if fuel comes out of hose(might need to cover eyes and depress valve on heater side of hose,depending on what kind of hose design). This is just to eliminate weather the problem is in the heater or not. It is also cheap enough to buy small canister of propane and try, you can always use then throw away,,,,,,good luck!

 

Tried that. Propane is coming out of the hose. -I depressed the disk inside the end of the hose that mounts to the heater, and propane came out.

Tried the small propane tank, too. You can see it in the picture I took of the unit. The "clog" is definitely between the tank inlet (on the unit) and the pilot light.

 

the pilot tube is pluged ! some spiders like to build webs in them or it got pinched bent or broke but u need to focus on that line to the pilot! that's the problem outside or internal this was the problem with mine and it fits to a tee happens all the time with these units !its a small soft copper\brass line very fragile

 

...and what did you do about it?

 

There is also this that could have happened....may have had some debris on end of hose when screwed onto heater and the debris then pluged the inlet where the propane enters. this is the small male tip that enters tank. Check that small hole, this is located inside of what lookes like a place for a screw driver (but is not, its just for depressing the valve).....once again good luck!

 

Ollie Damons repairs MrHeater products and usually has in stock about any spare part ever made. You might try calling them.

 

Also my heater does not have a pilot and will still light when sparked and the button is held down until thermocouple is warm. I would think that the pilot tube is only so u have a pilot but the heater shouild still light when a lighter is held onto the thermocouple (thus replacing the pilot) The propane that supplies the heater comes from seperate line....Spiders also like to build nests where the large opening for air flow is at main heater jet. may not be accessable without removing heater outer cover..

 

HA HA Ha HA Ha!
I win! Fixed 'er!
Here's what I used: Air nozzle with a WD-40 tube taped to the end. This allowed me to insert the tip down into the pilot light outlet. It's about 2" deep, until it bottoms out at the point where that tiny brass feeder tube comes into the pilot nozzle. At the other end (where the propane tank mounts), I used a little copper wire to "snake" the tiny inlet. This cleared whatever debris was in there.

 

Thanks everyone! You guys rock!

Lesson learned: I need to get a filter for my tank/hose feed. I had no idea that I needed to use one.

I'm still mad at Mr. Heater for not doing his job on my last cold river trip. I'm the forgiving type, though. It won't be long before he's my Buddy again.

 

When I bought my driftboat (new) it came with the same heater, it gave me nothing but trouble from day 1, attemted to use it for 1 season then got rid of the piece of junk.:twocents:

 

Oh Yeah!

It looks like with this model, the pilot stays on all the time. This heats the thermocoupler, which allows the regulator to keep feeding propane to the ceramic burner.

 

That's great...on my model the thermocoupler is kept warm by the heater eliment itself, it's placed close to the heat. Get ready it's going to be a cold winter. I might need to borrow it.

 

Nice work on the fix,yea thermo couple is a safeguard to close the gas valve when there is no flame present etc.and yea its amazeing how all the bugs like to get into orfices,when i had my hvac co. We saw some crazy stuff in these areas,glad mr. Heater is heating.nice air nozzle tweek,what ever works right.

 

My old sunflower Mr Heater's worked in the wind my 2 new one's get blow back flames and are junk in the drift boat. Have a new brand heater on order.

 

Well, before you toss those... I know a guy who knows how to work on 'em. :wink:

 

There is a 'tip switch' attached to the bottom of the unit (inside). That might contribute to your problem. Mine would lite OK, but the slightest vibration seemed to shut if off. I by-pass wired that switch and it works fine. Don't know if that will solve your problem, but it is a place to look.

You will need to tear the unit down quite a ways to get to that switch, just keep track of the screws and the order things came off and you will be fine.

Congratulations of getting the clog cleared.

Hope it works out well for you.

Best Wishes

StreamFixer.

 

You dont use a comma before "though". The rule with commas - use common sense. You dont pause before saying tho, so there is no comma. Tho is a conjunction, and the only time you would insert a comma before, is when there is a complete sentence following the word. I realize your probably just being through, but its all wrong, and it just complicates the matter.

Now, onto the heater. I appreciate the thoughts coming forth in this thread. I was having the same trouble. Held down the ignite switch in the pilot position for one minute, (until i could smell propane) gave the air about one minute to clear, and then started my heater as usual. It took on the second crank.

So thanks to the the ones who mentioned holding the switch down for a second. Easy, but something i wouldnt have thought of.

 

I realize your probably just being through, but its all wrong, and it just complicates the matter.

Nice.




Scrooge ?

 

Jsonic- you win the award for longest time to spot a grammar correction ever. This post was from 2010.

Looks like this might be your first post on IFISH but I could be wrong. If it is, you may want to hang out a little and get a feel for the site.