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Discussion starter · #81 ·
I tried out my new Terova 36 volt with three of the LiTime blue tooth 100 amp batteries fishing halibut out of Newport yesterday.

Spot locked for about 10 hours with a 22 foot boat. The wind was 10 to 15 mph out of the north with a strong north to south drift. The motor had to work to hold position. I checked the charge when I got home and was surprised to see I had drained all three batteries down to 1 percent.

Re-charging the batteries with a Minnkota 3 bank 15 amp charger went exactly as expected with each battery taking 15 amp hours per hour for a total charge time of about 6.5 hrs. It certainly creates a new sense of awareness having the blue tooth and actually knowing what is going on with my batteries.
Interesting data point. Sounds like pretty good results to me. I would look at motor throttle on spot lock, then look at how many amps you are drawing on the LiTime app. The app will tell you how many hours of charge you have left based on the existing current draw on spot lock.

I went to Hagg Lake yesterday and trolled with the cruise control set to 1.5mph. Riptide Terrova only drawing 5 amps. Therefor in theory I could troll for 20 hours if I wanted to with 100aH batteries in series.
 
I tried out my new Terova 36 volt with three of the LiTime blue tooth 100 amp batteries fishing halibut out of Newport yesterday.

Spot locked for about 10 hours with a 22 foot boat. The wind was 10 to 15 mph out of the north with a strong north to south drift. The motor had to work to hold position. I checked the charge when I got home and was surprised to see I had drained all three batteries down to 1 percent.

Re-charging the batteries with a Minnkota 3 bank 15 amp charger went exactly as expected with each battery taking 15 amp hours per hour for a total charge time of about 6.5 hrs. It certainly creates a new sense of awareness having the blue tooth and actually knowing what is going on with my batteries.
What I have found is that looking at the current speed/thrust on your remote while in spot-lock, you get an idea of how hard the motor is working. Sometimes adding a wind sock/sea anchor out the back can help reduce the need for the motor working so hard. Or even a gas kicker in gear to provide some propulsion or whatever the wind/current offset is needed. It can make the difference between a full day and a partial day.
 
Interesting thread. I just bought a 12v 100 ah system from Ecoworthy. I got their 10 amp charger and battery monitor as well. The monitor comes with what they call a hall. The positive wire to the battery passes thru this hall. Is that the same as the shunt you guys are talking about?
 
Interesting thread. I just bought a 12v 100 ah system from Ecoworthy. I got their 10 amp charger and battery monitor as well. The monitor comes with what they call a hall. The positive wire to the battery passes thru this hall. Is that the same as the shunt you guys are talking about?
Hall Effect - measures the current around the wire. Think of this like the clamp on ammeters.
Shunt is a resistor (albeit a very low-resistance path).

Two different design / approaches that provide what you are looking for - current draw.

-J
 
Hall Effect - measures the current around the wire. Think of this like the clamp on ammeters.
Shunt is a resistor (albeit a very low-resistance path).

Two different design / approaches that provide what you are looking for - current draw.

-J
Thanks. Not knowing much about this technology I’m finding both an online video and the Chinese translated instructions on how to program my monitor to be baffling. Currently it’s showing 0% charge after fully charging the battery. 🄓
 
Ecoworthy.
Currently it’s showing 0% charge after fully charging the battery.
I am not familiar with their configuration utility. But a wiring diagram of how you hooked it up would be helpful for discussion.

As far as resetting charge…that depends on how you have it wired. If the charger is attached directly to the battery posts, then the Hall Effect sensor is NOT going to see the charge current. You are only going to be able to measure the current draw (what you use with your trolling motor).
You have have to hook the charger up past the sensor so it can 'see' the charge current going back to the battery.

All is not lost. Most of these have the option to reset battery charge at a specific voltage. That is how I have my Victron configured. So when the voltage gets to 14.2volts, I have it reset to 100% charge. The idea here is that voltage will rise with the charger to somewhere between 14.2-14.6volts when charged and then slowly drop down at rest to around 13.6volts. So you are making the assumption that if the voltage gets to 14.2volts...that means you have it plugged into the charger and you are letting the charger do its thing. The other assumption is that you are letting it fully charge with the charger so you can assume the battery is full charged...so why not just reset your monitor?
Of course, if you prematurely disconnect the charger and do not let the battery fully charge, then you might get a false reset....but this is the compromise you make with it being wired this particular way. Just know that and adjust accordingly.


If you have batteries wired in series, then you'll want to adjust the reset voltage to a multiple of 14.2volts....so two batteries 28.4v and three batteries 42.6volts.

Hope this helps.

-J
 
I am not familiar with their configuration utility. But a wiring diagram of how you hooked it up would be helpful for discussion.

As far as resetting charge…that depends on how you have it wired. If the charger is attached directly to the battery posts, then the Hall Effect sensor is NOT going to see the charge current. You are only going to be able to measure the current draw (what you use with your trolling motor).
You have have to hook the charger up past the sensor so it can 'see' the charge current going back to the battery.

All is not lost. Most of these have the option to reset battery charge at a specific voltage. That is how I have my Victron configured. So when the voltage gets to 14.2volts, I have it reset to 100% charge. The idea here is that voltage will rise with the charger to somewhere between 14.2-14.6volts when charged and then slowly drop down at rest to around 13.6volts. So you are making the assumption that if the voltage gets to 14.2volts...that means you have it plugged into the charger and you are letting the charger do its thing. The other assumption is that you are letting it fully charge with the charger so you can assume the battery is full charged...so why not just reset your monitor?
Of course, if you prematurely disconnect the charger and do not let the battery fully charge, then you might get a false reset....but this is the compromise you make with it being wired this particular way. Just know that and adjust accordingly.


If you have batteries wired in series, then you'll want to adjust the reset voltage to a multiple of 14.2volts....so two batteries 28.4v and three batteries 42.6volts.

Hope this helps.

-J
I am not familiar with their configuration utility. But a wiring diagram of how you hooked it up would be helpful for discussion.

As far as resetting charge…that depends on how you have it wired. If the charger is attached directly to the battery posts, then the Hall Effect sensor is NOT going to see the charge current. You are only going to be able to measure the current draw (what you use with your trolling motor).
You have have to hook the charger up past the sensor so it can 'see' the charge current going back to the battery.

All is not lost. Most of these have the option to reset battery charge at a specific voltage. That is how I have my Victron configured. So when the voltage gets to 14.2volts, I have it reset to 100% charge. The idea here is that voltage will rise with the charger to somewhere between 14.2-14.6volts when charged and then slowly drop down at rest to around 13.6volts. So you are making the assumption that if the voltage gets to 14.2volts...that means you have it plugged into the charger and you are letting the charger do its thing. The other assumption is that you are letting it fully charge with the charger so you can assume the battery is full charged...so why not just reset your monitor?
Of course, if you prematurely disconnect the charger and do not let the battery fully charge, then you might get a false reset....but this is the compromise you make with it being wired this particular way. Just know that and adjust accordingly.


If you have batteries wired in series, then you'll want to adjust the reset voltage to a multiple of 14.2volts....so two batteries 28.4v and three batteries 42.6volts.

Hope this helps.


I am not familiar with their configuration utility. But a wiring diagram of how you hooked it up would be helpful for discussion.

As far as resetting charge…that depends on how you have it wired. If the charger is attached directly to the battery posts, then the Hall Effect sensor is NOT going to see the charge current. You are only going to be able to measure the current draw (what you use with your trolling motor).
You have have to hook the charger up past the sensor so it can 'see' the charge current going back to the battery.

All is not lost. Most of these have the option to reset battery charge at a specific voltage. That is how I have my Victron configured. So when the voltage gets to 14.2volts, I have it reset to 100% charge. The idea here is that voltage will rise with the charger to somewhere between 14.2-14.6volts when charged and then slowly drop down at rest to around 13.6volts. So you are making the assumption that if the voltage gets to 14.2volts...that means you have it plugged into the charger and you are letting the charger do its thing. The other assumption is that you are letting it fully charge with the charger so you can assume the battery is full charged...so why not just reset your monitor?

Well Jeb the video and ā€œ instruction manualā€ are so vague and confusing (translated from Chinese) that I can’t even set or reset anything. I have an engineer friend with a lithium system that’s gonna give me a hand on this.
 
Discussion starter · #88 ·
The group 24 Bluetooth model on sale for $286. Cheapest I've seen it.

I spot locked for 3 hours Friday night pikeminnow fishing. I only used 5% of my 24V battery setup. They are amazing if you are on the fence.


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Thanks. Not knowing much about this technology I’m finding both an online video and the Chinese translated instructions on how to program my monitor to be baffling. Currently it’s showing 0% charge after fully charging the battery. 🄓
You might have to cycle the battery in order for the BMS to start showing amount of charge. As I recall, my LiTime battery needed to be hooked up to the charger before the blue tooth would even connect. Hook up your charger, and if it says the battery is charged, trust it for the starting spot.
 
Well I got my battery monitor hooked up and operational. I had a software engineer/electrical engineer friend help me. Didn’t need to cycle the battery, just set the parameters. Mounted the charger in my bow battery box and the monitor on the port side dash.
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Discussion starter · #92 ·
Apparently LiTime making batteries for electric boats/outboards that can sustain hundreds of amps. Up to 60V battery system. Saw this video yesterday. Not for me.

 
$275 today? You're killing me LiTime! Bluetooth model

View attachment 1042313
I bought one just a month or so ago, paid a little more than that though. Super happy with it, going from my group 27 beast to this feather weight champion was fantastic. It puts out the power for a long time. I ran mine hard all day, and it way out lasted anything my lead acid could've done. The blue tooth feature is really nice, you can watch and see how much your trolling motor is pulling in various conditions and see what your state of charge is. I was on the sideline for years, and have been so happy to finally make the change.
 
Discussion starter · #94 ·
I bought one just a month or so ago, paid a little more than that though. Super happy with it, going from my group 27 beast to this feather weight champion was fantastic. It puts out the power for a long time. I ran mine hard all day, and it way out lasted anything my lead acid could've done. The blue tooth feature is really nice, you can watch and see how much your trolling motor is pulling in various conditions and see what your state of charge is. I was on the sideline for years, and have been so happy to finally make the change.
Yep. There is no going back once you switch. I don't care how cheap those lead acids get at Bi-mart.

If LiTime made a crank battery group 24 size, I would think about buying it. It would be light and could power my lights and fish finder all day with the motor off.
 
I have a dumb question for those who have batteries with shunts or Bluetooth. Do you have to manually set the battery status in the app to 100% everytime you charge the battery, or does the app automatically update to show a full charge?
 
I have a dumb question for those who have batteries with shunts or Bluetooth. Do you have to manually set the battery status in the app to 100% everytime you charge the battery, or does the app automatically update to show a full charge?
No, but over time accuracy will diminish so I reset mine about every 20-30 charge cycles.
 
Discussion starter · #97 ·
I have a dumb question for those who have batteries with shunts or Bluetooth. Do you have to manually set the battery status in the app to 100% everytime you charge the battery, or does the app automatically update to show a full charge?
The app updates charge status in real time during charging. It shows amps flowing into battery and estimated time until recharge complete. When the BMS cuts out it will show 100% charge in the app.
 
Thanks. I have a 100 AH lithium battery with a shunt in my kayak (purchased second hand) and I have to manually reset it every time I charge the battery. I've looked at the settings through the app and can't figure out how to get it to automatically do it. It shows the state of the battery before charging but doesn't update in real time when charging.
 
Well I had my set up at Odell Lake for the month of August. I fished 27 days, used the Minnkota for 1-6 hours about 22 of those days as steering and speed control only. I only had to recharge the battery twice. Needless to say I’m quite pleased with that.
 
Well I had my set up at Odell Lake for the month of August. I fished 27 days, used the Minnkota for 1-6 hours about 22 of those days as steering and speed control only. I only had to recharge the battery twice. Needless to say I’m quite pleased with that.
That's pretty impressive performance! I've not fished Odell much in August. How did you do? Trolling mostly? Anyone jigging? jonb
 
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