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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I just got a used 9.9hp, 4 stroke, long shaft kicker. :dance:

I have several questions I would like some help with.
The boat is a 19' Bayliner Capri bow-rider with a 3.0 liter OMC Cobra I/O.

1. What are the pros and cons for using a separate tank opposed to the main tank. I am leaning toward the main tank due to the limited room in the boat.

2. Is connecting to the main tank merely tapping into the hose and running it to a connector in the transom and then to the motor?

3. I am looking at a spring loaded bracket that is rated for 165# and the motor is 104#. Is this enough margin for the weight?

4. The same bracket comes with a 9" or 15" lift. Is the amount of lift only determined by the motor and transom or is there personal preference involved?

5. Where is the best place to buy an EZ Steer kit? (I can't afford a TR-1, yet)

6. Most important, what haven't I asked that I should have?


Thanks, Tim
 

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Shaker, for starters the one bad thing about having just the one tank is that if the main tank get contaminated, neither motor will work and our kicker is mainly for safety and trolling.

As far as tapping into the tank goes, we tapped into our fuel filter housing because it had one inlet from the tank and several outlets so each motor has it's own line. The kicker flow is shut off with a valve. One thing I was told by a outboard mechanic was if you don't have a valve to turn the flow off from the kicker, your big motor can draw fuel from the little motor's carburetors and eventually suck air. Just what I was told so take it as you will
 

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1) For the fuel, I'm assuming you have a fuel-water separater, just add a spliter to the output and run a hose to the kicker. This way your kicker gas is protected too. Only bad thing is once you are out, your out of gas!! :shocked:
2) For the bracket, go with the heavy dutiest bracket you can find. The 165# should be fine. The light ones will work, but their springs can't help you much in lifting the motor back up. Stainless is nice too for the Salt.
3) For the length of travel, sometimes more is nice. All depends on how you mount it and where. Mine has 15" of travel, but only one setting. It's either up or down. Bad idea!! :mad:
4) What else have you forget? Do not tip your motor on it's side!!!!! A month ago I had the motor off to put new washers on my bracket and noticed the motor had tilted from it's upright position I left it in. (Yes, it fell over!!) Anyway, I put it back on not really thinking about it. The next weekend, my motor wouldn't run? Weird I thought, maybe bad gas.
So after some carb cleaner it did run better, but not great. After I really thought about it, I felt pretty dumb. Pulled the float off and air intake and they were both very oily. Just cleaned them and she runs like a top. Something to think about. LOL

Green Machine
 

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ShakerKing,

You want to tap off the main tank directly (if you can), not via the main engine fuel line. If you run the main engine and the kicker at the same time, the main engine can steal the fuel from the kicker.

Normal operation, put in a one way valve in the fuel line if you do tap off the engine fuel line. This will keep the kicker fuel line primed.

I keep a 3 gallon fuel tank and hose with connections for the kicker for emergencies, run out of fuel, bad fuel, etc.

On mounting, key is the kicker prop being in free water under the hull. That's the key measurement for the brackets.

Another thing to consider is operating the kicker. Mount it so the control arm has free movement and can move the engine the full turning radius.

Also think about ease of manual operation. Where are you going to sit or stand to run it. Even if you get a TR1 or some such, they can die and you may be running home on the kicker (happened to me) so make sure you can operate it manually fairly easily wherever you mount it.

Brion
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mr Carp, I think it makes sense that the main fuel pump could pull enough to dry the kicker line. BrionLutz suggests a one way valve, this seems reasonable.

GreenMachine, I did have it on its side while getting the motor home. The fella told me to check and see if I could pull the cord when I got home. If I couldn't he suggested pulling the plugs and cleaning them. It was propped up slightly with the carb on top. I was able to pull the cord but my plugs may still be dirty.

BrionLutz, I will check into the availability of the one way valve. I will ensure that the final configuration that I can run manually with either the main or secondary tank.

Thanks, Tim
 
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Run your main fuel line to a quality spin on filter and then run lines to your main motor and kicker from the filter. Use the same size hose for everything. It's also a good idea to carry a small tank for the kicker as a back up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Has anyone had an issue with having the transducer for the fish finder on the same side of the boat as the kicker?
 

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SK,

I have always mounted my transducer away from the kicker motor prop as much as possible. It can cause air bubbles around the transducer and cause disturbance. I have not had a problem with it, but have had two friends who have with their set ups. Both ended up re-arranging the kicker/transducer set ups.

I have to agree with the fuel line discussions. My kicker fuel line comes off the filter/water seperator attachment and ensures that the fuel for the kicker motor is clean.

SD
 

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My kicker fuel line is off the fuel filter but has a check valve rather than a shut off. This prevents the main motor from draining the kicker with out constantly turning a valve on or off.
 

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If you mount your transducer exact, you shouldn't have any problems. Our kicker is on the same side as the transducer and it always works well.

Make sure you run the fuel through a spin on type filer or something similar. We have one that has the water bowl on the bottom of the filter so you can just drain the water out every so often.
 
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