Has anybody taken out a bathtub and installed a walk-in shower stall?
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I've done some showers but not after a tub removal. The hard part is the plumbing, moving the drain, setting the pan, plumbing the valve. The shower head is pretty easy from the valve on up. Even with my experience, your job sounds like one for a pro. Tile/stone is so much easier to work with but it takes time.
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"Backing".....very important to put this in when there is access to framing.
Typically this is 2x6 or 2x8 or 2x10 flat blocks nailed or screwed in between the studs.
They are placed behind where grab bars or other accessories will be installed later once the tub/shower is installed.
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DD: A must for installing cabinets as well.
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Have done a bunch of them ,and lots of new installs .
The obvious will be demo,plumbing modifications ,floor repair (dry rott)😳?.Framing ,soap nitches ,etc.
I start by reinforcing the floor with doubling joists ,two layers of 1” sub flooring ( have adjustable drain installed ,height ,centered .Oatey has round or square grates ,square is easier to cut tile to but not much ability to adjust for height ,round is the opposite ,easy to adjust ,more difficult to cut tile .
Then I pour in a bed of mortar sloped to the drain (kits available..I can slope with no kit,guides ,pour into of Tar paper etc.
I use a HD LINER ,pig ear the corners ,or I fab a copper pan since I have all my Sheetmetal shop brakes ,shears etc.Liner can be done by someone with some knowledge ..or companies like reddy pan etc.can do a base .After rubber liner is installed ,another bed of mortar goes in sane as first ,sloped ,keep adjusting drain to approximate height ,final adjustment will be for tile and Thinset (if tiled floor,)skip if premade base pan.Pan test for leak ,hold test for X amount ,Liner is sandwiched between two piece drain .flex liner can be fabricated around the entrance (threshold ,ie 4x6).
I cover studs with plastic wrap ,lapped into pan ,after ,soap nitches ,seats are installed ,hardi ,cement board goes in ,Seams ,joints,corners are taped and sealed screws covered (Thinset )
Walls ,base ,liner will all have to be perfectly plumb and square ,if not the tile will reflect mistakes .If stall walls and corners are out it will be a massive eyesore ,so plumb,level ,square everything !!.As you go .Also keep backer board above pan base so no wicking can happen ,watch screws through liner membrane .Have some framing members in areas for shower doors rods ,surrounds etc.
Don’t forget to plan ahead for ,dual heads , valves ,body jets,rain cans 😳😂
Should be ready for Tile😳🤔👍🏻
probably forgetting some steps ,but it’s doable 👍🏻Hope this helps 🤔
The obvious will be demo,plumbing modifications ,floor repair (dry rott)😳?.Framing ,soap nitches ,etc.
I start by reinforcing the floor with doubling joists ,two layers of 1” sub flooring ( have adjustable drain installed ,height ,centered .Oatey has round or square grates ,square is easier to cut tile to but not much ability to adjust for height ,round is the opposite ,easy to adjust ,more difficult to cut tile .
Then I pour in a bed of mortar sloped to the drain (kits available..I can slope with no kit,guides ,pour into of Tar paper etc.
I use a HD LINER ,pig ear the corners ,or I fab a copper pan since I have all my Sheetmetal shop brakes ,shears etc.Liner can be done by someone with some knowledge ..or companies like reddy pan etc.can do a base .After rubber liner is installed ,another bed of mortar goes in sane as first ,sloped ,keep adjusting drain to approximate height ,final adjustment will be for tile and Thinset (if tiled floor,)skip if premade base pan.Pan test for leak ,hold test for X amount ,Liner is sandwiched between two piece drain .flex liner can be fabricated around the entrance (threshold ,ie 4x6).
I cover studs with plastic wrap ,lapped into pan ,after ,soap nitches ,seats are installed ,hardi ,cement board goes in ,Seams ,joints,corners are taped and sealed screws covered (Thinset )
Walls ,base ,liner will all have to be perfectly plumb and square ,if not the tile will reflect mistakes .If stall walls and corners are out it will be a massive eyesore ,so plumb,level ,square everything !!.As you go .Also keep backer board above pan base so no wicking can happen ,watch screws through liner membrane .Have some framing members in areas for shower doors rods ,surrounds etc.
Don’t forget to plan ahead for ,dual heads , valves ,body jets,rain cans 😳😂
Should be ready for Tile😳🤔👍🏻
probably forgetting some steps ,but it’s doable 👍🏻Hope this helps 🤔
I did one with "walls included." I got it directly from Lasco in Yelm, WA. Or maybe HD ordered it from them? It was 3 pieces.....has to be since it's retrofit and not installed while framing the house originally. This was not a 60" wide unit. It was just replacing an old stand up/walk in shower stall. Plumb and squareness of walls.....wasn't such a hot topic
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As much as I love the the look of a nice bath room tile job, I have not solved the mystery of keeping it mold-free.
It's probably me not applying the maintenance necessary.
Therefore, if it was for myself, I'd be looking for a Fiberglas kit.
It's probably me not applying the maintenance necessary.
Therefore, if it was for myself, I'd be looking for a Fiberglas kit.
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7,105 Posts
Tile shows all of the framing errors as mentioned above.
Your kit takes small framing errors out of play.
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7,803 Posts
I've done a couple, one pan and tiled sides, one tub and tiled sides. No doors as I agree with above, use a curtain if needed. How are your knees? Not too difficult but I'm getting to the point of having others do stuff like this and keep myself busy in the shop, or fishing.
Oh and the newer master bath (10 years old at least) with the epoxy grout has no mold at all. The older one with old style grout does need cleaned more and I actually covered the grout with some grout paint and it seems to work well. No more grout staining or mold.
Oh and the newer master bath (10 years old at least) with the epoxy grout has no mold at all. The older one with old style grout does need cleaned more and I actually covered the grout with some grout paint and it seems to work well. No more grout staining or mold.
I've done a couple. A shower is supposed to have a 2" drain, tubs normally have 1 1/2". Lots don't bother changing this, but if it's accessible it's a worthwhile thing to do. If the tub is cast iron, then the easiest way to remove might be to break it apart with a sledgehammer (big mess, sharp shards). The multi-piece stalls (ala big box store) are fine, the key is to get your walls square and plumb (via firring), the effort here will pay off when you put up the walls. For mold, take a look at your exhaust fan and consider upgrading.
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1,995 Posts
We replaced our stand in tub, rebuilt the exterior wall and installed and razed a new smaller window. I bought a Kohler pan with a seat, and we had done title work projects before. Thankfully we have a rv so we had access to a shower, our project might of taken us 2 weeks. I remember the old tub was cast iron and was a project to remove. I beleve the tub originally should of sat on a tounge and grove subfloor. but was suprized to find they had cut it, and built a frame to support the tub. So add sub floor work to the project. My exterior wall was also cut out. replacing about a 4 by 8 section. My pictures of the project are on another device but you can do this. If I remember use green board not sheet rock, use big handfuls/ scopes of motor in six cow pies to set your pan or base on. Plex is the way to go, but also was a new process for me. I would not trust the bath in one day people or and contractor that covers over mold or soft wood. I'd also add that darker title shows water drops more than a lighter color. We used lighter colors on the walls but used a darker color on the remaining flooring, and maybe lighter flooring would show water / pee drops less. Good luck ask any questions, you can do this , Grant
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We did a 60" roll in shower for Mom's wheelchair accessibility. Ended up getting a 4 piece kit from HD that is "Ella" brand.They have regular walk in ones, too. Easy enough to install and has plywood backing, so you can mount grab bars and other accessories in any position. Didn't have to do anything to the walls except for plumbing change access.
Not cheap, but high quality. I think the factory is in the Eugene area, but don't think they sell direct to public.
Not cheap, but high quality. I think the factory is in the Eugene area, but don't think they sell direct to public.
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2,233 Posts
I did it, watched a lot of you tubes. Be careful cutting that tub out, i cut through my hot water pipe.
plumbing was the hardest. Had to move the drain and copper pipes behind the wall for the new shower head. I also had to add floor joists under the pan, because i had to cut out more floor than i was anticipating to move the drain hole.
flooring, and sheetrock was the easier, but more time consuming part. Also put in new toilet, and vanity.
i had zero experience, i just watched you tube. The only part i hired out was soldering the new pipes. Paid a buddy a couple hundred bucks for that. If i didnt have easy crawlspace access however, i never would have been able to do it.
plumbing was the hardest. Had to move the drain and copper pipes behind the wall for the new shower head. I also had to add floor joists under the pan, because i had to cut out more floor than i was anticipating to move the drain hole.
flooring, and sheetrock was the easier, but more time consuming part. Also put in new toilet, and vanity.
i had zero experience, i just watched you tube. The only part i hired out was soldering the new pipes. Paid a buddy a couple hundred bucks for that. If i didnt have easy crawlspace access however, i never would have been able to do it.
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