[DoryDrifter]

I had a 90 Honda on my old 20’ Harvey and 70 Yamaha on my current 20’ Harvey. The 70 is more than 100 lbs lighter and has plenty of guts for for what I use her for which is normally 2 big guys and lightly loaded with gear. If you’re Planning 4+ guys with 200 lbs of ice, I’d probably go for a 90 or 115.

 

[Griffin]

I am ready to build back the floor on my 81 harvey and looking for some advice. I am going to use 1700 Biax with epoxy. I am sure some of you will question going with epoxy but the cost difference didn't seem too bad if you get Raka.
How many layers of 1700 do you think is adequate?
I made a test section with the following:
-2 layers of 1700
- 2ea layers of 3/8" balsa
-3ea layers of 1700
-1ea layer of 6oz woven


It is a little thinner than the existing floor of chopper glass but then again not much strength in chopper glass.

Cross Section.jpg

• Griffin
• Feb 3, 2024

Sample Reduced.JPG

• Griffin
• Feb 3, 2024

 

[Ted2]

Hi Griffin, if you want send me a pm , I have some extra balsa wood you can have if you want might have some other items from my Harvey rebuild. I’m west of Salem. Ted

 

[IIonPilgrimg]

I am ready to build back the floor on my 81 harvey and looking for some advice. I am going to use 1700 Biax with epoxy. I am sure some of you will question going with epoxy but the cost difference didn't seem too bad if you get Raka.
How many layers of 1700 do you think is adequate?
I made a test section with the following:
-2 layers of 1700
- 2ea layers of 3/8" balsa
-3ea layers of 1700
-1ea layer of 6oz woven
It is a little thinner than the existing floor of chopper glass but then again not much strength in chopper glass.

Cross Section.jpg

• Griffin
• Feb 3, 2024

Sample Reduced.JPG

• Griffin
• Feb 3, 2024

Wish the early pages showing restoration of Frayed Knot weren't removed when the site migrated. But, I still had all the photos on my old laptop and moved them here recently... Looking... Looking... Yeah! The attached photo (in progress) should help. You're working / thinking more than I did and my estimate of hours spent was amusement for some here -- as I recall -- don't let it discourage you!

I wasn't sure what you meant by 1700 biax: I read this on another site and now get it...
"1708 is for Ester resins
1700 is for epoxy
The 08 mat is a filler, doesn't have substance to it is mainly used to make the cloth go around corners and stay there."

Good on ya' for practicing on a sample. Helps visualize the core construction, which should be very sound: It's shy of an inch thick all together ... with a core of glass/epoxy sandwiched in between. All done with epoxy, you're golden!

You probably know this by now: mat involves a bonding glue agent which epoxy can't dissolve like polyester does. That's why 1700 (biaxial or sewn cloth) or woven is recommended for epoxy and not 1708 or glass-mat.

FYI: (This was previously posted! -- Put those pages back, iFish!)
When I tore the floor out, we removed two layers of 1/2" balsa. General consensus was that Harvey used what could be obtained, which carried through to our restoration almost 40 years later...
When I called Fiberglass Supply for 1/2" core, they said only 3/4" was in stock at the time. But, they'd send that for the same price as 1/2". I debated with myself 24 hours (3/4" vs. 1-1/2"), then took the deal. Thought 3/4" might be too thin. But that's proven untrue...
Your real enemy is core compromise from drilled holes or cracks in the flooring, which will be unlikely if your layup is as good as your sample!

PS:
The floor will flex... You will feel it do so under your feet. Epoxy should endure flexing cycles better than poly resin. Breaker Dory has channel construction which eliminates flex. But, that also means it's hollow in there. Not to knock it! Just... NEVER drill holes in the floor of a dory and repair any crack which might hint at appearing!

Last thought, although most important: Core compromise is death... or a do-over at the least. Be sure to soap and wash any epoxy blush away between applications - more work but worth the effort!

 

[Griffin]

Hi Griffin, if you want send me a pm , I have some extra balsa wood you can have if you want might have some other items from my Harvey rebuild. I’m west of Salem. Ted

Hey Ted, thanks for offering, I should have posted earlier! I already purchased hopefully all the balsa I need. I will keep you in mind though.

 

[Griffin]

Wish the early pages showing restoration of Frayed Knot weren't removed when the site migrated. But, I still had all the photos on my old laptop and moved them here recently... Looking... Looking... Yeah! The attached photo (in progress) should help. You're working / thinking more than I did and my estimate of hours spent was amusement for some here -- as I recall -- don't let it discourage you!

I wasn't sure what you meant by 1700 biax: I read this on another site and now get it...
"1708 is for Ester resins
1700 is for epoxy
The 08 mat is a filler, doesn't have substance to it is mainly used to make the cloth go around corners and stay there."

Good on ya' for practicing on a sample. Helps visualize the core construction, which should be very sound: It's shy of an inch thick all together ... with a core of glass/epoxy sandwiched in between. All done with epoxy, you're golden!

You probably know this by now: mat involves a bonding glue agent which epoxy can't dissolve like polyester does. That's why 1700 (biaxial or sewn cloth) or woven is recommended for epoxy and not 1708 or glass-mat.

FYI: (This was previously posted! -- Put those pages back, iFish!)
When I tore the floor out, we removed two layers of 1/2" balsa. General consensus was that Harvey used what could be obtained, which carried through to our restoration almost 40 years later...
When I called Fiberglass Supply for 1/2" core, they said only 3/4" was in stock at the time. But, they'd send that for the same price as 1/2". I debated with myself 24 hours (3/4" vs. 1-1/2"), then took the deal. Thought 3/4" might be too thin. But that's proven untrue...
Your real enemy is core compromise from drilled holes or cracks in the flooring, which will be unlikely if your layup is as good as your sample!

PS:
The floor will flex... You will feel it do so under your feet. Epoxy should endure flexing cycles better than poly resin. Breaker Dory has channel construction which eliminates flex. But, that also means it's hollow in there. Not to knock it! Just... NEVER drill holes in the floor of a dory and repair any crack which might hint at appearing!

Last thought, although most important: Core compromise is death... or a do-over at the least. Be sure to soap and wash any epoxy blush away between applications - more work but worth the effort!


View attachment 1030120

Thanks IlonP, yes the CSM isn’t needed when using epoxy so 1700 saves a little weight and resin cost. Good to know my floor will be thick enough. Would like to get her sea ready by spring but like you have said, everything takes longer than you think!

 

[Griffin]

Anyone have a tilt trailer for sale suitable for a 20’ flat bottom Harvey? The one that came with my boat is non-tilt and no title. I am in Vancouver, WA so I have to register the trailer.

 

[IIonPilgrimg]

In the past, there was discussion suggesting the best trailer design is a tilt-table, which you're not likely to find anywhere.
I have a drop axle I couldn't resist dragging home last fall. Has hydraulic brakes w/ the line cut.
I added new lug nuts and (previously unused) steel trailer wheels/tires:
$200 and you can build your own tilt trailer around it.

 

[fox]

I am ready to build back the floor on my 81 harvey and looking for some advice. I am going to use 1700 Biax with epoxy. I am sure some of you will question going with epoxy but the cost difference didn't seem too bad if you get Raka.
How many layers of 1700 do you think is adequate?
I made a test section with the following:
-2 layers of 1700
- 2ea layers of 3/8" balsa
-3ea layers of 1700
-1ea layer of 6oz woven


It is a little thinner than the existing floor of chopper glass but then again not much strength in chopper glass.

Cross Section.jpg

• Griffin
• Feb 3, 2024

Sample Reduced.JPG

• Griffin
• Feb 3, 2024

something to consider about epoxy resin is its propertys can be greatly improved by post curing. This involves raising the temp and holding it there for a recomended time this should be listed in the tech. sheet for the resin that you get

 

[Griffin]

Ilon,
Just getting far enough on the boat project to allow myself to think about the trailer now, Ilon, do you know what hub face to face measurement yours is you are selling. What’s common axle width for our dory trailers? There is a nice Dexter torsion 3.5k used for sale local to me but it’s hub face to face is 78”, worried that’s too narrow.

 

[IIonPilgrimg]

78" is 6.5 feet: In the ballpark. I'll measure mine tonight compared to my dory trailer. I remember it's the same width as is under my 5'x8' utility trailer. A torsion 3.5k might be much nicer (likely galvanized) versus this repurposed axle which would benefit from sandblast (or wire wheel) / fresh paint.

 

[Joe E]

In the past, there was discussion suggesting the best trailer design is a tilt-table, which you're not likely to find anywhere.
I have a drop axle I couldn't resist dragging home last fall. Has hydraulic brakes w/ the line cut.
I added new lug nuts and (previously unused) steel trailer wheels/tires:
$200 and you can build your own tilt trailer around it.

Hey Tim, I finally built that trailer. I hinged the tongue to a simple rectangular frame, with the rollers, just 12" ahead of the axle. This helps keep the trailer low and still functions as a tilting table. It tilts Easy, with just light foot pressure when empty, and keeps the deck angle low, for easy loading. The fore/aft balance point of the boat sits just far enough ahead , fully loaded, for about 100 lbs of tongue weight. Should be good.

 

[IIonPilgrimg]

Took a pic.

It has only the one stack of springs showing. Between the drop points is 70"; Backplates are 76" apart; Drums add 4.5" each. Track width = 85"
Really close! Track width under my Harvey is 87"

 

[IIonPilgrimg]

Hey Tim, I finally built that trailer. I hinged the tongue to a simple rectangular frame, with the rollers, just 12" ahead of the axle. ... Should be good.

That should be great, rather! A frame in front of the axle which doesn't tilt with a shorter tongue centered on it, stable port/starboard [rectangle]. The deck drops onto it and the bow contacts the rollers below. Less material, same benefit. Nice!

I remember most of our earlier discussions. The tilt table is a gem of ingenuity, though surely fated to historical oblivion only because it requires a little more material than modernity is willing to allow it. Meaning, metal ain't cheap and we ain't using any more than is necessary, or that other guy will under-sell us.

If you've seen that Harvey for sale recently... Great Expectations... there's a relevant back-story to the trailer under it (which I recognize):

I argued with my neighbor, Dickie Doo, about his design of the tilt-point being too far aft. He was insistent! I thought the tongue was a bit too long and it has a preference to settle off-center if you're not straight-in when loading the dory. We helped each other that go-round: I was also redesigning my own tilt-mech at the same time (for the second time) and only had enough spare c-channel (his left-overs) to get to [I just measured it] 6 feet fore of the axle. I'm comfortable with it there, though perhaps not entirely pleased.

Thinking through the physics (again), my dory will roll forward or back to a 'trigger point' at which the deck will tilt more violently than it would if the hinge were only 12" fore of the axle, in which case the deck and dory are a balanced unit just forward a pinch of the pivot. When it tilts, it does so gently. I perceive the deck could also be lower because the balance isn't so far aft before it tilts: less trailer deck mass fore.

 

[Joe E]

Tim, the pics on the sea anchor thread show some of my new trailer build. It functions as a tilting table. very low deck angle, fully tilted, due to the hinge point being so close to the axle. The deck does not lift noticeably at the hinge point, so at full tilt, with the aft roller at the ground, the front of the table is only about 2 ft high. The flat deck angle is key to soft offloads and easy onloads. with this trailer empty, light foot pressure tilts the trailer deck. Although my new trailer frame is of Cedar, because I had it on hand and it won't rust. Any new dory trailer build should take a close look at my design. It is simple, strong and light. Steel would be an acceptable substitute for wood, heh heh. There is some extra lumber on the trailer deck in the pics, just to help with the tarp cover.

 

[Griffin]

Got the trailer done and ready for galvanizing. I went with a hinge tongue style. I weighed the boat with a crane scale, around 1850lb. This includes the 2ea 40hp mariner mercs but nothing else. I still have hopes of getting out this season!

 

[DoryDrifter]

View attachment 1042515 View attachment 1042516
Got the trailer done and ready for galvanizing. I went with a hinge tongue style. I weighed the boat with a crane scale, around 1850lb. This includes the 2ea 40hp mariner mercs but nothing else. I still have hopes of getting out this season! View attachment 1042514
View attachment 1042513

That weight sounds about right. The (2) Mariners weigh between 400-500 lbs total. I weighed my stripped down ‘75 completely empty and it weighed around 1,100. Good luck with your new boat!

 

[IIonPilgrimg]

The trailer looks great and should be very functional... Plates at the pivot point will force it to drop square on the tongue - good engineering.
You might consider short guide bars/rollers standing at the aft corners starboard and port -- so the hull squares up via tripod with the winch strap when it loads crosswise (inevitable).

 

[bobber_boy]

I recently purchased a 73 Harvey with a bad transom. I’m going to attempt the rebuild myself, and address a soft spot in the fish box while I’m in there. My question is, what is the best practice for cutting out the splash well to where it goes back in easily? Straight line from the trays back, or cut out behind the trays, all the way to the sides?
Any other tips are greatly appreciated. I’m mechanically inclined but never worked with FG before. Thank you for your help!

 

[DoryDrifter]

Congratulations! Look forward to seeing your progress and pictures!