Everything works some days, nothing works some days. All three options have advantages and drawbacks. If you're planning to fish shallow, where a diver is enough to get down, 8 to 10 oz, often less, would be enough lead. But you don't have to tell the Mrs. that you don't need a new rod....

If I had to use 16 oz or more to get down where I want, I'd go with a down rigger.

Be prepared for all options, and come to your own conclusions.

 

Ckthumber is right on. I had one peroid last fall no problems in 4 trips out and the following trip could not keep a fish buttoned. It's just fishing,not you or your equipement. I mostly use lead 30 inch droppers 20# . I then run #40 for 12 inches to my flasher than 5 ft of 30 # florcarbon. that approx 7 ft. I was running 40# florcarbon but notice for ever the reason the poles with 30# were out fishing the 40# probable the 40# was affecting the herring spin. I always am fishing the bottom were I fish and never run divers. Hope this helps you.
.

 

The hook style you use is very important when fished barbless. Probably the worst factory barbless hook on the market is the Gami, Octopus. The best is the the Maruto, Grabber. Most of us just pinch the barbs on hooks that have proven successful in the past. I prefer the Matzuo, Sickle hooks over the Gami, Big River. The bend is a tiny bit different and I have confidence in the hook as I've been using them since they came on the market and barbless became mandatory. I've cauget a lot of fish on both hooks. The sickle hook design makes a lousy front hook for pulling plug cut herring. A standard J hook or a Wide Gap Finesse, should be used up front.

When using lead in the ocean and fishing suspended (not thumping the bottom) you do not need a dropper. A very short dropper of two or three inches is okay but it's best just to clip the lead to the slider. The dropper adds to the drag which requires more lead to get down. I've fished effectively with 90 feet of line off the reel and 10 ounces.

It isn't just important to keep the line tight with barbless hooks, it requires a long, flexible rod. Never let the fish rest. It should either be coming toward the boat, or going away on a run. No down time doing nothing. Don't try to drag the fish to the surface, especially Silvers. When they are out from the boat a ways, keep your rod low, tip in the water if you can, till it's time to slip the net under them. A quick lift and scoop 'em up.

 

Pretty common to use 20-24oz of lead along the jetty in tillamook especially when it's bumper boats at least that's my program keep it in the strike zone

 

especially when slack tide i fish very light weights and do fine. i dont want a 20 oz weight fishing. just me personally. i usually do fine with 3 oz max in most places that arent too deep or fast current.

a diver is preferred for other times. i want to have fun fishing not just catching fish. its not fun for me to have a 40 pound rod and a giant weight dragging around, or fishing bumper boats. but i can go any day i want so if i dont catch something i still had a great day.

 

Downriggers are superior. More depth control, more hook ups, less guessing, and a more true and fun fight. I also believe they are cheaper in the long run, as your not losing much lead. I have been using manual Unitrolls for 15 years, with very little problem.

 

Yes, this. Once you're used to downriggers, you'll never reach for another lead over 4 ounces in the ocean for salmon. This is especially true with less-than-experienced anglers on board. Fishing downriggers means never being beaned on the head by a cannonball, and being able to reel down to a bead 5 feet or less from the fish. You can fish from 15' to 150' without changing gear, and know exactly how deep you're fishing at all times. Best of all, when the fish hits, you play the fish, not a diver or heavy lead.

 

You have some multiple ways as suggest. Your going to need the right equipment no matter with way or system's you choose. I can tell you from experience the guides will be hitting the bottom taking two or three cranks off the bottom. That's if your outside (bubble) jetty area. 90percent with lead. Inside the bay same way less weight,less currents. These chinook get big when hooked up your going to need to control your fish,It gets crowded out there last thing you want is to get into other boats, good luck.

 

I guess that I didn't make it clear that "bumper boats on 10 ft swells" is something that I would like to avoid this year. I have successfully fished the jetty at Garibaldi, and I suppose that I will again if my hand is forced by ocean conditions, but I have upgraded to a more seaworthy Clipper Craft.

I have trekked to the coast too many times and had the same luck as the 90% of boats in the bay that didn't get a bite. I want to go catch fish earlier in the season, and more reliably. I am hoping that I can learn to do that.

 

Well you need fish to catch fish,and it's true 10 per cents of the fisherman catch 90 percent. I no expert, I haven' t fish there in a lot of years. I can remember 200 fish days on the bubble, I would shoot over to Astoria there is a lot of fish isn' t that hard to learn. If you could hook up with some one to show you. I don ' t fish there either, I would say never be shy ask folks. There alot of great guys that will help.

 

Thank you for the comments guys. I am picking up a couple of 12# downrigger fishies next weekend in Seattle. I will be putting the rest of the downrigger system together piece by piece.

At the risk of inflaming vicious blood feuds, what sort of release clips do y'all find do the job when using braided line?

 

Tie on a 25' mono topshot and stick with Scotty or blue water releases.

 

My recommendation exactly. Scottys have a tension adjustment that will allow you to clip braid directly, but the mono topshot is nice.

 

"Dubro downrigger release"

If you use braid these are by far the best. You can tighten them way way down. I often troll down 200-300 feet, no false releases.

 

"Black's" very simple, adjustable,too easy!!!