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I have really done it now. My lower unit was leaking so I was going to replace some seals and put in a new impeller while I had it apart. I went to remove the bolts and got them all off except for one big one on the back. It sheared off at the head and is still in the lower unit.
anyone have any suggestions on removing this bolt?
I have your basic aluminum-steel galvanic action going on with what seems to be some really nasty corrosion holding the bolt in place. I understand that there really isn't any solvent that will cut this kind of corrosion.
My ideas are:
• drill the bolt and retap the aluminum
• heating the aluminum with propane and try turning the bolt.
• take it to a shop and have them do it.
Since it really is a pretty basic mechanical thing I think a regular machine shop should be able to get it out for me.
Does anyone have a suggestion on a shop that could do this work?
Anyone have any other ideas?

[ 06-04-2003, 04:25 PM: Message edited by: SandySteel ]
 

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Eric, I have a set of easy outs which your are welcome to borrow and try that route before drilling. You drill a hole in the remaining
bolt, insert the easy out and hopefully back it out of there.
 

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drill the bolt out enough to get an easy out in the bolt use some heat that should get it out if not take it to a boat repair shop you can get easy outs at any auto parts store they will show you how to use them they work great
 

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Before I purchased a set of easy outs, I took mine to the machine shop at NAPA. For, I think, $10 they removed 3 screws from the lower unit of an old 1955 Sea Horse I was rebuilding.
 
K

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:laugh: Easy Outs :laugh:
If you can grab the bolt with Vice Grips, heat up the aluminum and turn out the bolt. If you have access to a TIG welder, weld a nut on the bolt and let it cool down, then turn out the bolt.
 

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Sometimes, when working on outboards..Easy Outs won't even work. If it were me...and I could have it removed by a "shop" for $10.00...I'd be diggin that ten spot out right now.

Mark
 

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I dont know how much bolt you have to get ahold of but,.....

if you drill out the bolt and try an "easy out" (poorly named tool) and break the easyout out off in the bolt you will be in deep doodoo. They are really hard to get out.

I like the welding a nut trick if you have some bolt to get ahold of.

You can always drill out the bolt and put in a helicoil, just another option.
 

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Ok Sandy Steel Listen to all but take this advies to heart first, Go buy some KROIL this is the most penitrating and deepest seeking oil that has ever been made. If you have ever worked on a ocean going boat you will know what it is and how it works. It is 100 times beter than WD40. Trust me, If you buy it and do not like it I will buy it from you. Use a couple coates of Kroil and a little heat and make sure you shock the bolt by hitting it with a hammer and then try to turn it and work it free. You must shock it though to free croodided aluminimum. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions
Joe
 

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Ditto on the KROIL, that stuff is amazing. Hard to find though. Talons, you have any idea where to find it around here? I tried some local auto parts and some local machine shops with no luck.
 

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Hi Eric,
The Kroil sounds good enough to give it a try. If all else fails the heating up and visegrips usaaly work if you have enough to grab on to. worse case is drill it out and then try the easy out or just drill it out and install a helicoil. That was the way I use to do it when I worked in a boat shop years ago. Good luck with it,

:smile: Smily :smile:
 

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do not, i repeat do not heat the alum. you will ruin the whole deal.. This is not a slam but if you sheared the head you probably should not be doing the work. take it in and let some one do the rest. an easy out is the only answer but that takes more skill than the whole job make it someone elses problem!
 
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Anyone can break a SS bolt when removing it from an aluminum block, especialy if it has been in saltwater. You also should have said, do not overheat the aluminum. You're right about having someone that has done this job before do the work or help out. Easy Outs don't work unless you have the drilled hole exactly centered in the bolt. This can't be done well with a hand drill and it is hard to do on 1/4" bolts with a drill press.

When putting the SS bolts back in make sure you put grease on the bolt, not metalic Never Seize. I like to use De-OX or No Corode. This will save you much greef in the future.

PS:
***, I wish I had another gallon of it, I'm down to less than a pint and 1/2 of a spray can :depressed:

[ 06-05-2003, 07:31 AM: Message edited by: Keta ]
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thank you everyone for your advice. I am going to take it to a machine shop this morning to see what they can do with it.
Now I need to find a shop that has the same size and length of bolt. Anyone have any ideas on that one?
Where should I call to pick up a bolt of the same size? I am assuming that this is a stainless bolt. It used to be about 8" long. It ran from the lower end of the exhaust cowling down through the 6" extension and into the lower unit.

[ 06-05-2003, 09:11 AM: Message edited by: SandySteel ]
 

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Keta - why do you say

When putting the SS bolts back in make sure you put grease on the bolt, not metalic Never Seize
<font size="2" face="verdana,arial,helvetica">When I put my new wear ring and impeller in the boat motor I put never seize on the stainless bolts where they go in the aluminum so I could get them apart next time. Should I have not done this??? The first time I did the work several years ago, I used a wheel bearing type grease (because I didnt have never seize at the time) and it all came apart fine this time. I have always had great luck with the grey never seize that has the metallic look to it.

I even coated the shaft where the aluminum impellor slides on it, thinking the impellor would not be so stuck next time :whazzup:
 

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I think Sportsman's Warehouse has Kroil in the gun cleaning section.

Tell us more about Never-Seize. We used to use that in Alaska, but I only saw it in commercial quanities, i.e. big cans. Where can a person get it locally?

Skein
 
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BOE and Skein,
Just one more metal in the mix causing more galvanic corrosion. Water proof grease or electrical anti oxidizers (I like De-Ox but there are several brands) work without the metal.
I use Never Sieze or Anti Sieze on anything that isn't in water.

Any auto parts store should handle anti-sieze in small quantities.

SS,
Thanks, I know where to get Kroil but it's a lack of money thing. I gave too much of it away too.
 
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