I don't do much steelheading anymore but I use a 12 to 15' mono leader on my braided line. I run the float on the mono. I tie a swivel at the end of the mono and then put a section of lighter mono for my leader. If I break of it is generally on the lighter leader that breaks so I don't loose too many floats.
All I can say is that is works for me.

 

The best bobber fisherman I know (he hooked 6, landed 3 Saturday afternoon) runs the braid through the bobber to the in-line weight. Then a 30" to 36" flouro or mono leader. He uses thill bobbers. He said they take the wear of the braid.

No need for an extra knot, IMHO.

 

This is how I do it, also I think same as option #1 in Artwo's post. I'm primarily a spinner guy, but have branched out into the bobber game a little over the past few years (mostly just for variety, but also to be able to target a few particular spots more effectively) and this is what I've settled on for the majority* of situations since I'm not devoted enough to have a huge library of different bobber setups.

My choice for leader is usually just 10-12# mono, so unless I do something egregious like wrap the mainline/bobber around an unfriendly branch palm I'll almost always break the leader instead of the 30# braid and get my bobber + inline weight back from a simple bottom snag. I usually also run a small split shot about halfway down the leader between the inline weight and the jig head (either an actual jig, or a jig head w/ either pink worm or a bait/yarn rig) so it'll help track more vertically in the water column rather than having the jig 'swing' up behind the bobber in faster current. For length, you don't want the leader too long so you can run the stop all the way down when targeting shallower spots; I used to run longer but have graduated towards only a couple feet now because unless you ditch the inline weight you can't shallow it up any further but you can always just adjust the stop to run deeper. When I tried running a longer mono section and just using more add-on weights like extra split shot, I'd sometimes end up with the braid/mono splice above the bobber so that you end up w/ a section of mono laying on the surface instead of all braid, which doesn't work as well for mending, etc; or you'd have the knot splice hang up trying to slide up/down the bobber.

For bobber choice, I've become a fan of the Aerofloat line ~ much cheaper than Thills, still plenty durable, and they have metal grommets in the ends so the braid runs through them pretty smoothly w/ no fraying. They also print the size on the side so it's easy to match to the proper weight rating once you have several of them floating around loose w/o the packaging. And, they come w/ a couple beads & a pre-tied bobber stop in the pkg, plus they're available even at smaller places everywhere like BiMart so you don't need to hunt down a bigger specialty outfit.

* - The 2 main exceptions to the above setup would be 1) low/clear summer water where I do choose a longer leader or even straight mono over braid mainline for stealth, and then just a round fixed cork float w/ no extra weight besides the jig alone; and 2) "wind" drifting in flat water out of a boat where fish may stack up for long periods, where we use a much heavier rig like for salmon (huge foam bobber w/ sliding egg sinkers) so that the added mass will kinda hold its place in the water column more and not have the breeze put too much of a belly in your line and start dragging the bobber around out of the zone too quickly.

 

I’ve run both ways for at least a season to see which I preferred. For steelhead fishing I prefer to have a section of 15lb-20lb that is about the length of the rod, I prefer not to have a lot of the bumper line on the spool because every 10th cast it catches on the joining knot. For salmon I think it is not necessary under most conditions.

 

Depends how your fishing. You talking like a bobber dog setup where your dragging you weight on the bottom or just using jigs suspended under a bobber? I think if your bobberdogging like most people youd want a section of mono bumper attached to your weight just in case you hung up on bottom but I dont bobber dog the typical way so I have no need for a mono bumper. I just run my bobber on my braid with a inline weight whether fishing beads or jigs.

 

Thanks for the info. Right now, I don't bounce the weight off the bottom. I adjust the bobber stop until my sinkers hit bottom and then I set it so the jig/worm/bead will be about 6"-12" inches from the bottom. I'm trying to keep the rig simple so I can keep it in the water.



When running the setup as you describe, does the color of the braid matter?

 

I bobber fish for steelhead almost exclusively now, whether it be with jigs, plastic worms, beads, or even bait. That said, I rig my rod's up both ways. Here are 3 ways how I tie it all up......

1. Braided line with a bobber stop/bobber stop bead/small bead/sliding 1/2 oz bobber/in-line 1/4 oz weight/24-30 inches of 10# fluorocarbon leader/jig or worm or bait. Slide the bobber stop up your mainline to adjust your depth so your offering is about 6 in. to 1 ft. off the bottom.

2. Braided line with about a 6 ft. section of 12# fluorocarbon leader tied directly to the braid with a double uni (uni to uni) knot. I use a fixed 1/4 oz Thill or Maxi float attached to the leader with the rubber bands they come with (I can then manually slide the float up or down to adjust the depth). On the end of the leader I tie on a jig/rubber worm. Adjust your float depth so your offering is about 6 in. to 1 ft. off the bottom. (This has been my most productive setup so far this season)

3. Braided line with a bobber stop/bobber stop bead/small bead/sliding 1/2 oz clear bobber/three way swivel/attach weight to bottom of three way swivel, weight dependent on current flow/36 inches of 12# fluorocarbon leader/#2 Owner hook/bead pinned three finger widths above the hook. Slide the bobber stop up your mainline far enough to allow for a few feet deeper than the water level you are fishing. (10mm orange bead was killer this last weekend).

The fixed float setup with a 1/4 oz white jighead and a 4" pink worm accounted for 3 fish this last weekend (3 hooked, 1 landed) and the bead setup below with a 10mm orange BnR softbead accounted for two others. The key thing about the bead setup is the weight. You have to have just enough weight so your bobber can pull your weight down stream as it ticks along the bottom. To much weight and you get hung up often, to little weight and your bead isn't in the strike zone.

Kudo's to my neighbor, I usually fish the sliding float setup, but he's been doing really well this season with the fixed float setup. He showed me how to tie it all up and I had a really good weekend with it, I'll be fishing it that way from now on this season...........

Hope this helps you out some................

 

I bobber fish for steelhead almost exclusively now, whether it be with jigs, plastic worms, beads, or even bait. That said, I rig my rod's up both ways. Here are 3 ways how I tie it all up......

.....

2. Braided line with about a 6 ft. section of 12# fluorocarbon leader tied directly to the braid with a double uni (uni to uni) knot. I use a fixed 1/4 oz Thill or Maxi float attached to the leader with the rubber bands they come with (I can then manually slide the float up or down to adjust the depth). On the end of the leader I tie on a jig/rubber worm. Adjust your float depth so your offering is about 6 in. to 1 ft. off the bottom. (This has been my most productive setup so far this season)
.......


Hope this helps you out some................

This helps a bunch. Thank you!


When using #2, I'm assuming the fixed bobber (rather than a slider), allows you to set the depth both below and above the uni knot, correct? Seems like a nice clean setup. If you break off the jig, does the bobber usually stay on the line?

 

17 lb nanofil or ultra 8, eagle claw bobber stop 2-4 lb, braid goes thru the bobber to 3/8 to 1/2 in line weight, 18 to 24 inches of seagar sts fluorocarbon leader to my jigs make. almost the same with real eggs, or rubber worms. not going to comment on beads as I haven't caught one on those yet because they don't like me so that set up has no proven value.

your correct going 6-12 inches off the bottom thats what I usually always shoot for.

 

I use 17lb Nanofil for my main line --> 12lb fluoroclear bumper (10ft or so) --> small swivel --> 2ft leader of 10lb fluoroclear --> 1/8 or 1/4 oz jig.

I use Thill 1" or 1 1/8" floats and attach those to my bumper.

The reason I use the 10lb leader is because if you hang up and try to break off, I have had the bumper connection knot (modified albright or uni uni knot) slip which has resulted in me losing floats. I'm pretty sure the reason the knot failed was because the Nanofil is really slick line. I love this line but that has been my only issue with it so far is that it tends to slip if you don't tie a good strong knot.

 

Sebile or FG knot is TOPS for braid to bumper connection.


Easier to tie and just as reliable is the Crazy Alberto knot, but it's a bulkier connection than the FG/Sebile.



Uni-Uni is super easy to tie but is the weakest of these choices and is excessively bulky ( esp on the fluor/mono side of the knot).

 

Thanks Doc! I'll start practicing the FG knot. I know it takes some time to get down so one can do it fast. I've also started experimenting with throwing in two half hitches on my braid once I've cinched my Crazy Alberto knot. I've been able to yard on it a bit without the knot slipping. Hopefully that'll be the end of my knot woes.

 

I don’t think a mono bumper is necessary. I have always ran my bobber on the braid to my inline weight or swivel, then whatever length of leader I need to my bait, jig, or bead.

 

I set my pole up with 20# braid straight to a swivel using a sliding bobber and in-line weights. I used 30-36 inch leaders with a variety of jigs this weekend. I lost a few jigs, but the bobber stayed on. Alas, no fish saw fit to take my offerings.



One more question about float fishing: how much weight really needs to be on the jigs? It seems like beads are fished the same way, but without any extra weight near the hook. Wouldn't you get a more natural drift with just a hook and something colorful stuck to it?


I'm just trying to figure things out so I can get some fishes....:thisbig:

 

leader for jigs is to long 18 to 24 is perfect , 3/8 main weight 1/8 jig 1/2 ounce bobber.

 

I've been fishing floats for salmon, steelhead and trout here in the Northwest for over 30 years and I've tried just about every configuration out there. After it all regardless of what the experts say works best under whatever conditions I find running my braid directly to my inline weight or swivel works just as well. I do follow the two guidelines. The first is I go with the smallest/lightest float weight combination that will get the job done. Second when I fish during prolonged freezing weather (like when I go back to the mid-west and fish the Lake Michigan tribs) I don't use braid for mainline since it absorbs water and freezes solid. I go with straight mono but treat the first 50 ft or so with wax.

 

I use an 8 ft 20 lb maxima ultra green bumper when bobber doggin and running a bobber and jig. Lost 1 bobber in the last couple of years jig fishing and I fish a lot. Unit to uni from bumper to braid has never failed me, 10 lb leader always breaks first. Love the stretch of the bumper, I think it is an advantage when using braid. Plus the bobber stop holds strong on that 20 lb bumper!
Just started bobber doggin this year and have not lost a bobber yet with the bumper, but I’m sure that is yet to come. I’ve spent lots of time hunting winter steelhead, 20 excursions at least....lots of time on the water.

 

No But I would go smaller jigs all black is my favorite but I have caught them on all white with just a small amount of pink mixed in.. Thats one great thing about tying your own, you can really dial them in for different conditions.

 

If u end up going with using a piece of mono bumper, as opposed to using braid only it does pay off to apply fly line floatant to the mono. The mono sinks and won't give you as natural of a presentation. Next time your by a fly shop go in and look for the floatant with a built in applicator. It is another step but if the fish are being finicky this contributes to the natural presentation.

I can think of several times its paid off for me......that being said I have lots of friends that just fish straight braid and the fish don't seem to care even if the braid is yellow. Who knows....I always laugh at the amount of thought we put into it vs a fish who's brain is the size of a peanut.

 

Floatant definitely helps with mono. I had some in my fly gear. I think you're right about anglers over thinking it all, but you might be over estimating the brain size of the average fish.