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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Went to a B10 seminar at FMS this year. The Pro said he used Hot Spots with divers for coyote spoons and hootchies. So I bought a couple. Here is my dumb question...

Which is the top and which is the bottom?

Went ocean fishing and rigged it with a diver and coyote. It wouldn't dive. Tried putting distance between the diver and Hot spot and it still wouldn't dive. Thought if I spent any more time rigging that someone would catch my fish, so I went diver straight to herring.

The packaging does not discern which end to mainline and which to lure. I think I rigged narrower end to mainline and fatter end to lure.

Feeling stupid and $20 poorer.

Freakwater
 

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Made the same mistake myself numerous times. I believe the fat end should face your rod. I've since switched to fishflash so the (dumb) mistake part is over. Small end to rod. :cheers:
 

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Gee, I had the same question also. I bought 3 of the Hot Spots up in Campbell River a few years ago and haven't used them yet. So, I decided that I would give it a go next week in the estuary.

Fortunately, I saved the plastic package they came in. On it, it says that the narrow end goes toward the rod and the widest end is where you tie your leader. Their recommendations for leader length from the widest end of flasher to the lure knot is:

22" to 36" for coho
24" to 42" for chinook
24" to 72" for bait type lure (anchovie, herring)

Hope this helps.
 

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OK, so I was wrong.
 

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I love hot spots use them alot as alot of us do in puget sound> the secret no matter what type of salmon you are fishing for is a 52" leader about all I do is change size of my lures and trolling speed to accomidate the salmon species I am targeting. Sinny end of the flasher does go to your rod!!!PEACE
 

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Yeah, fat end to the bait. However, I disagree with the previous poster as to leader length. I like a short leader for silvers (~22-24 inches) and then longer, around 40 inches for kings. But experiment and see what works for you.

They're pretty deadly here in the sound. I haven't tried them at B10, used divers and fish flashes down there. The one issue with the flashers (hotspots, etc) is that they need a fairly long piece of line between them and whatever is taking them down in order to work. I think they work well from downriggers, haven't tried but think they wouldn't spin right from a diver.

I run about 20-30 feet of line out before clipping them into the downrigger. That catches lots of fish, but clearly isn't feasible from a diver.
 

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OK so now we'll really confuse ya!! :smile: Hot Spot leader length for me for hoochies is 42" - 44" for nooks' and 31" - 33" for silvers. If you run bait 50" at least. Bottom line play with different lengths and see what works for you. I do run them behind divers (not much now since the fish flash came out), run an 18" - 24" leader from the diver to the Hot Spot and it will rotate fine. The downfall to the flasher behind the diver is by the time you get the diver/flasher/lure and a fish on the guy with the rod is standing on the seat so you can net the fish!!
Good luck and tight lines, Jeff :grin: :grin:
 

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Freak, here's an earlier post on similar subject:

salty dogs post

When hotspots are fished commercially, the leader is about 15 - 18 ft to the hotspot, then 2 to 3 ft to the lure. For sport, 5 1/2 6 1/2 ft to hotspot & 24 - 30 inches to lure / bait is a good range. A hotspot is best suited for a hoochie because it rotates. Bait is best matched with a dodger style, like a Les Davis, because it wobbles. Generally speaking, for a slower troll (like barely crawling when you are trying to get real deep) the leader to the bait or hoochie is shorter. When you troll fast, like for silvers, the leader to the bait is longer. When you go to smaller flashers (like a Les Davis 00 or 000) the leaders become shorter too. So there is not one right way to do it. It depends on these variables. Sure there are exceptions, like using a small hotspot with bait. But most of the time hotspot + lure, or dodger + bait are the best combos.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Does anyone want to buy some Hot Spots? j/k

Thanks for the info. I'm going to go crawdadin' up at Timothy this weekend and I think I'll play around with different rigging just to see what kind of action I get while the traps soak.... not fishing.....just lab work. I'll wear my googles.

I may wait until next summer to ocean fish them though. Cut plug and a fish flash worked so well at B10 this year. Just hate bending over and paying $5 for herring. Would really like to get dialed into using more hardware.

Freak
 

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We fish Hot Spot and Ok'i flashers on Vancouver Island with downriggers for salmon almost exclusively as well as occasionally off the mouth of the Columbia and Tillamook Bay. As the typical diameter of the rotation of a rigged 11" flasher is about 5' or 6' I can't see how they would work very well with a diver. You would need probably at least 10-12 feet to the hootchy/bait to have it function how the flasher was designed to.

We run our shallow rods at least 12 pulls behind the downrigger wire and deep ones 24 pulls (we stack two rods on each downrigger). Leader length from the 'fat end' of the flasher varies with the fishery. Typical lengths we fish are 24-27" for Sockeye, 36" for Coho, and 42" for Chinook. That's with hootchies. With bait it varies from about 6' to more than 10' depending (the Chinook off Port Renfrew 2 weeks ago wanted a dead straight bait with no roll on leaders greater than 10' behind the flasher or no bite).

It also depends on trolling speed. If you typically troll fast your leader length needs to be longer, slower, shorter to get the same action on the lure/bait. It is actually a fairly sophisticated art to tune drop back of the flasher and leader length to the speed your boat likes to troll. Every boat is different and when you get it right you know it by your increased success.

After all of this my personal suggestion off a diver would be to use a rotating flasher like a fish flash or small dodger. Much easier to keep total line length from the rod tip to the bait a manageable distance.

Just our 15 years of experience. Hope this helps.
Jean
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Wow!

Seems like a real art to dial these in!
Best I can tell these are designed for downrigging. That's all the direction's showed. Think I'll go to the FMS B10 seminar next year and ask that pro, "what the.....?"

Thanks
 
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