imagine the diver is the weight, like you would fish for springer with the typical sliding set up.
I tie in a barrel swivel after I've attache another above. The sliding one is used to attach a diver, about a foot of dropper line. The other gets the leader line that goes to the bait or plug like a kwikfish.
That's the deal I think you are referring to.
So you have 2 barrel swivels in the main line and the diver on a 1' droper between them? What keeps the diver strait without a leader comming off the bottom? Is there a pic somwhere I could take a look at? :shrug: I know it's gotta be simple but I just ain't seeing it.
The barrel for the diver/dropper is not tied to the main. It slides up and down the main.
Start with bare main.
add 1 bead
add barrel (do not tie, run main through either end of barrel so it slides between the bead and the next two beads to be added)
add 2 beads
add barrel to main (tie this one)
tie leader to other end of barrel
Take a desired lenght/test of mono and tie a plug snap to each end. This is your dropper.
Attach one snap to the sliding barrel and one to the diver.
You should end up with a diver that slides along you main on a barrel between beads. The first bead is to protect the eye of your rod, the other two are to stop the sliding barrel from jamming into the barrel that connects your main and leader
The set-up pictured is basically the set-up I use for springers in the Sandy. I tryed some of the smaller divers last year later in the season when the water was lower and had the same result as you. I couldn't get them to track as straight as the #20. I now use the hot-n-tot's when the water drops.
Have a slider on your line (a plastic one or a swivel) then a couple of beads and then tie on a swivel and to the other end of that your leader. The diver is tied to a short peice of mono off that slider.
I like the plastic sliders to cut down on line stress.