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Discussion Starter #1
I'm setting up a set of downriggers. Do you guys like to power them off the non-engine-start battery? My understanding of ocean salmon trolling is I'll keep the motor going on the troll, and no real engine-off drifting in this particular fishery, so can't see specific need for them powered off bat1 or bat2 only. I'm new to this equipment and ocean trolling using them, so asking. Thanks in advance.
 

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My DRs work best off my biggest battery. I have 2 batteries, but don't really consider either to be a house battery or a start battery, just redundant batteries, but one is larger, I think a group 31, but that's from memory.

IMO if you're using the DRs a lot, as in up and down frequently, it's best to use a battery that gets recharged by your motor land even better if that's a big battery.
ron m
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Excellent points. Thanks, Ron.
Forgot to say the batt's are equal size, wired in parallel, so when one's charging so is the other. The boat is wired so you can isolate one or the other bat, depending on pole position.
 

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I have a house battery and an engine battery I wired the riggers to my kicker/house battery as it gives a small amount of charge while trolling. I also have a combiner switch as if one battery goes down I can combine them to get home if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Combiner switch?
Most batt cutoff switches ive seen have this funtion...
Posit 1- batt 1
Posit 2 - batt 2
Posit 3 - batt 1 & 2
Posit 4 - off
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the input guys. I'm just going to make some 4ga ***/neg jumpers from the house/kicker battery over to my blue sea fuse block I attached to the back of the battery compartment (6 positions). I'll tap two 10ga 12vdc and ground wires over to the power plugs each side. The fuse blocks are rated for 30a, so no need for circuit breakers, the 30a blade fuses should be good. Again, thanks for the help.
 

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Here's a question. To add more downrigger receptacles to use for electric reels it should be ok to daisy chain if that's the proper term from the original two instead of running new wires back down the the batteries, blocks et cetera. Correct??? The extra receptacles would only be used for electric reels.
 

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Combiner switch?
Most batt cutoff switches ive seen have this funtion...
Posit 1- batt 1
Posit 2 - batt 2
Posit 3 - batt 1 & 2
Posit 4 - off
If you look at the Blue Sea battery switch panel 8690 this what I used for the house/Eng battery switch and it has breakers I changed to 30 amp for the riggers. The switch itself is separated internally for battery input and output then one more turn combines the batteries in an emergency.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Here's a question. To add more downrigger receptacles to use for electric reels it should be ok to daisy chain if that's the proper term from the original two instead of running new wires back down the the batteries, blocks et cetera. Correct??? The extra receptacles would only be used for electric reels.
Add the max amp draw for each circuit, fused appropriately, and make sure you have proper wire gauge for the draw... I put a blue sea fuse panel #5025 in at the back of the boat behind the batts. It'll handle 100amp total, and 30a per circuit total for just that reason. I'm like you and will be adding some electric reel receptacles in when money presents itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
If you look at the Blue Sea battery switch panel 8690 this what I used for the house/Eng battery switch and it has breakers I changed to 30 amp for the riggers. The switch itself is separated internally for battery input and output then one more turn combines the batteries in an emergency.
Thats a nice unit... I like all the blue sea stuff and run it whenever I can. (y)
 

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We don't think much about batteries until they fail to perform. Most of the time this situation is self inflicted.

This is a matter of amp hours. How much do you think those DRs run? If you know the draw in amps multiply that by the time they are running in hours. Most Deep cycle batteries are 60 - 100 amp hours. There are bigger ones that go as high as 200 amp hours.

If you do that math you will see that you are probably less than ten minutes of runtime per hour. At 30 amps (way overestimated, worst case) you are consuming 5 amp hours to run each DR for every hour of operation. About 8% of the lesser deep cycle battery. You would make the same estimation for electric reels. They run on a higher duty cycle so the amount of power consumed is higher.

Typical outboard alternator is between 30 and 60 amps. So you could replace 50 to 100% of the battery charge every hour. Even a kicker will put out enough, between 6 - 10 amps to outcharge the draw from one DR. When you get two or three then you have to sharpen your pencil and maybe worry a little bit.

The bigger issue here is your battery switch. It is always a good idea to have a battery that is not discharged when you most need it to start your motor. Typically I isolate the starting battery from the system by selecting the other one on the battery switch while I am loading the system with electric reels, DRs or pot haulers. I can discharge the 'house' battery as much as I want. When I get ready to run I select the other battery and go. If you have a problem that discharges your batteries and you do not have a fresh starting battery to bring on then you are not starting your engine.

Last thing this time about charging. A discharged battery will put a serious load on your alternator. If you really run one down you might want to switch it off until you get home and use the shorepower to charge it. That would put less stress on your alternator.

There is always the ACR if you want to not manage your battery charging. And newer outboards have two alternator outputs that can be set up one for each battery. Your boat manufacturer figured most of this out for you. Or maybe not.


Here's a question. To add more downrigger receptacles to use for electric reels it should be ok to daisy chain if that's the proper term from the original two instead of running new wires back down the the batteries, blocks et cetera. Correct??? The extra receptacles would only be used for electric reels.
In a word no. Use a separate wire run to the outlet and back from it. At 30 amps you will need 10 ga or maybe larger wire depending on wire run length. If you use another tap on your first wire run to power another outlet you have at times doubled the draw on the circuit. More voltage drop, less power for the reels. Imagine "everyone reel up" before you go to the top of that next drift. When you kick that second reel into action the first one will slow down and your wire will possibly heat up.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well said. I'm wiring my two new tanacoms and DRs on that house battery. I'm paranoid so I carry a jump box too, but if done right will hopefully never need it.
 

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In a word no. Use a separate wire run to the outlet and back from it. At 30 amps you will need 10 ga or maybe larger wire depending on wire run length. If you use another tap on your first wire run to power another outlet you have at times doubled the draw on the circuit. More voltage drop, less power for the reels. Imagine "everyone reel up" before you go to the top of that next drift. When you kick that second reel into action the first one will slow down and your wire will possibly heat up.
Thank you.....I'll be pulling new wires. Thankfully the runs are short at 5 or 6 feet.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Took a day and a half to get it wired, but Its done. Wired two plugs per side so I can run 4 electric reels or two down riggers. I'll wire the fuse panel power through the master switch when I've got a little more time. Right now it's direct wired to the battery.





 

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Hold Fast .. your moniker reminds me of tattoos I saw on a sailors fists.

Question .. do you like that style of DR plug? Do they have any real benefit from the cover flap over the receptacle?

I am still using the Scotty type. I did not even think about it when I outfitted the boat. Saw a good deal and bought enough to set up the boat. Since the electrical contacts are exposed I switch them off unless I need to use one. Then there is no 12 volt anode to burn up with exposure to saltwater. They seem to last a little longer this way.
 
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