What kind of weight and how much do you use for the door modifications?I think you have it backwards, crabs leave rings after the bait is eaten, the legal size crabs cannot leave a pot after the bait is eaten unless the doors get stuck or work improperly. Danielson pots work well with a little rebar added for weight and some weighted door modifications.
Ageed,I use them up on Puget Sound and they work very well,just put some rebar in them and you good to go.I hang stuffed bait jars from the roof of mine, as well as hang bait from pins.:twocents:here's my 2 cents:
I feel that they are a "crab pot kit". trying to fish as they are they aren't that great, but once you add some weight (rebar ziptied to the bottom or bricks or stones) and put a little weight on the doors, they are wonderful!
(oh yeah -- don't forget the rope and floats)
Just be careful how you tie your rope on so that they come up straight and flat. Otherwise the trap may collapse on itself if you pull it up by 1 side.
I tie mine up so they cannot collapse on me (but that means I store full sized crab pots and not flat ones) and do just as good as my buddies who are fishing $100+ pot setups.
This is Sandbum's modificationI was wondering if these collapsing crab pots have any hangups. I saw someones post that the crab will leave the pot once they have finished off the bait. Any truth to that claim? Should I stick with crab rings?
That's an interesting idea right there!Second, snip off ½” off of the bottom of each of the 3 downward prongs on each door. This will help eliminate the binding effect that bottom sand, and eelgrass, tend to have on these doors. You can observe this by setting an unmodified pot on your lawn, where even the short grass can bind the doors closed, or even open.