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Chainsaw maintenance

4K views 43 replies 22 participants last post by  Cathunter1 
#1 ·
I got my first chainsaw 2 years ago, and I have probably run 12-15 tanks of gas through it. Besides sharpening I haven't done any maintenance. I got to thinking whether I should be doing any cleaning, filter changes etc? Anyone recommend a general maintenance schedule for their saw? It just doesn't seem to run like it used to. It takes twice as long to start and warm up, and even longer for the chain to start going.

I have a stihl wood boss 18 inch bar.
 
#2 ·
Changing the spark plug and blowing out the air filter is all I ever do to my saws and I have some that have run for thousands of hours.
I do take off the side plate and clean out around the chain and oiler frequently when cutting Christmas Trees as it gets full of grass and doesn’t allow the sawdust to blow out freely.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Clean the air filter, maybe run a little Sea Foam in gas, take the chain cover, and chain off to clean all the bar oil and sawdust build up around the clutch, lower the rakers with a flat file if you have only been sharpening the chain. Clean the bar groove and lube the tip roller . Change the spark plug. Use only good quality 2 stroke oil. I have always used Husqvarna oil. Do the above and she should start up, run, and cut like like new.
 
#12 ·
The Timberline Saw Sharpener will probably work OK. Over over the years I have tried all kinds of on-the-bar sharpening devices, some of which worked OK. But there are reasons that saw shops use bench mounted sharpeners; much faster, more consistent sharpening, and adjustability features that no on-the-bar sharpener will have. A few years ago I ordered a Tecomec Evo bench/wall mounted chain grinder (120 volt) from Bailey's ($199.00). If you use a chain saw often this is the way to go! You do have to read all of the specs that are listed on the box that a new chain comes in, and study the owner's manual for the sharpener; there is a learning curve. But when you master it your chains will be factory sharp every time. I wish I had passed up the Mickey Mouse sharpeners years ago and got a bench mounted sharpener.
 
#14 ·
A couple of things I saw missing in the responses was to clean the screen on the spark arrester. It is located in the muffler. If it becomes clogged it will back pressure the exhaust and slow the saw down. Second there is a small hole at the sprocket end of the chain bar for injecting lubricant into the sprocket. There is a small "grease" gun you can get for that...Oregon brand has a couple...under $10.

Also on two cycle engines it really helps to clean out the carbon build up by using Sea Foam in the gas and periodically run it full strength through the carb with the Sea Foal spray. Follow instructions. It is like giving the saw or other 2 cycle motors a tune up. The engine will smoke like crazy when you restart...that is good.

The subject of sharpening came up and I have had good success using a Dremel tool with the chain saw bits and sharpening right on the saw freehand. Most chains have the correct angle stamped right on each tooth. After all it is a chainsaw, not a carving chisel or razor blade. A cordless Dremel is even better for touch ups out in the field.
 
#18 ·
Watched a buddy of mine in a logging show, pole walk and snip, all he got was the bark to fly off!! LOL
 
#20 ·
I have four Stihls, from little to big. The smaller ones got a workout the last two days, they start up on the third pull cold and one when warm. All I do is blow out the aircleaner once in a while and clean out all the crevices when the covers are off. Nothing but clear gas in them since new. I had an old 64cc Farm Boss for over 35 years, I sold it because it was non AV, but that started fine too. If you dont get it running smoothly after cleaning the filter, it might need a carburetor adjustment. If you are not comfortable doing that the dealer can check it out for you. There isn't much that can go wrong with these saws. Checking your owners manual under trouble shooting might give a clue also.
 
#22 ·
Compressed air is great for cleaning chips etc .Watch the delicate areas!Watch blowing chips ,shavings etc.Into oil pump system .Keep oil filler area clean ,do not to plug oil tank filter or line .Stihl 500i models careful around the fancy stuff .Bar oil holes on Husky’s are tough to see being on a steep angle .Use dental type pick and really clean bar groove .Flip bar after every tank of fuel .Match Oiler to be close to out at fuel up .Bar sprocket usually has a oil line hole on both sides .Adjust chain with lifting a little weight off tip Adjust chain tension to kiss bottom of bar +-.And see how it works .Watch for bar discoloring .Adjust Oiler for nice spray .New chains soak in oil and watch stretch .make sure junk is not building at air filter base.Can always Oring filter base at intake .Fresh plugs ,tune to correct Rpm with Tach for high low .If limiters are present ,bummer .Check recoil assembly ,have an extra .Know how to wind for correct tension .keep rakers perfect height .Sharps chain tooth , cutter will grab your finger nail .Sharp chains ,use less effort ,fuel and are safer .Saws making fine powder plug air and oil system .Watch for a burr forming at bar edges .Check for decompression valve if equipped is tight and won’t fall into cylinder .
 
#23 ·
I got my first chainsaw 2 years ago, and I have probably run 12-15 tanks of gas through it. Besides sharpening I haven't done any maintenance. I got to thinking whether I should be doing any cleaning, filter changes etc? Anyone recommend a general maintenance schedule for their saw? It just doesn't seem to run like it used to. It takes twice as long to start and warm up, and even longer for the chain to start going.

I have a stihl wood boss 18 inch bar.
Agree with the earlier suggestion to follow the guidelines included in the manual. I pulled my 1986 Stihl Wood Boss out Saturday to tackle some of the limbs that fell during the storm. It took using starter to get it running. Today, I read the entire manual. Included is a section on carburetor adjustment. It indicated that the saws are set from the factory to run rich. After 3-5 tanks they recommend adjusting the carb. Did not sound complicated. The manual also mentioned most of what has already been covered in this thread.
 
#25 ·
We used to soak our dirt bike chains in kerosene overnight because it wasn’t harsh on the o-rings. Did a nice job of loosening everything up, and then just a quick brushing to get all of the crud off.
I’m sure there are more aggressive options for saw chains, as there are no o-rings to worry about.
 
#27 ·
A couple of things I saw missing in the responses was to clean the screen on the spark arrester. It is located in the muffler. If it becomes clogged it will back pressure the exhaust and slow the saw down.
This. I've revived quite a few small 2-strokes just by cleaning the screen. 2-stroke exhaust is dirty, and engines can't scavenge properly if the exhaust is backing up.
 
#28 ·
When adjusting carbs, they need to be a tad bit on the rich side for two reasons. A rich mixture runs cooler and this is important for air cooled engines and it provides more lubrication for two strokes. Always set adjusting screws a bit richer than where motor runs best.
 
#29 ·
A big word of caution about adjusting the high RPM mixture screws on chainsaws. Unless you have access to an RPM measuring tool , you can easily cause a piston to seize. When the saw is running at high RPM and you turn the screw to lean the mixture, the saw will run faster and faster, which to the untrained seems like a good thing. Without warning at that too lean mixture the saw will seize. I found this out the hard way when I was twenty something. Chainsaw mechanics use an RPM measuring device to set the high speed mixture by a specifications for that saw, RPM and not any higher.
You have been warned.
Many are tempted to remove the spark arresting screens. Be aware if you start a fire by a spark from your saw, Investigators will first thing seize the saw and check it. If there is not a screen you will face very serious charges
 
#32 ·
Some good info here.
As an old "Landing Man" I can still say a saw running right with a sharp chain, rakers lowered putting out nice long shavings (not sawdust) is one of man's greatest pound for pound tools.
A big part of my Landing Man experience was learning how to cut logs on the ground without touching soil/rocks, dulling the chain. As a landing man the skinners and job boss do not like to see you off the landing sharpening your saw too often.
Keeping your chain off dirt/rocks is worth learning.
 
#33 ·
One of my bosses step-sons got volunteered to work on our landing, he quickly got the name "Ditch Witch". I don't think he ever figured out why his saw would not cut, I could see the sparks from the shovel.........
 
#42 ·
Cathunter you are a blessing to landing men. In my experience we had the good and bad fallers. The bad would send logs in needing a lot of limbing and wrong lengths that I had to clean up before they went on the deck to be loaded. After awhile the bad fallers would be weeded out if they did not clean up their act. Sometimes there was a shortage of fallers and and a landing man had to live with that.
 
#44 ·
We only use the old yarder 1or twice a season , are logs are spread out .So the yarder is not the best .We usually skid to the high line if it’s bad country .Our fallers don’t do any clean up,unless it’s the last turn of the day .We usually can clean the log up before it’s loaded ,log is skidded and exposes some missed limbs .Landings at the yarder can need a guy or two to cleanup logs and push slash off .Like you know be on high alert around the yarder!!😳🤙
 
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