[HammondSeaRanger]

I am fixing up an older boat trailer. It currently has wooden runners covered by old outdoor carpet, (like astro turf).

Should I keep the wooden runners and just replace the carpet or is there a better system ?

The trailer is for a 14' Aluminum lake boat. I need to stay cheap ... but want to the job right.

Thanks for the advice !

 

[STGRule]

As long as the wood is sound, I'd just re-carpet. If the wood needs replacing, you may consider the plastic decking material. It's fairly inexpensive and you wouldn't need to carpet them. Actually, that may be cheaper than the new carpeting. I guess just price them both out. If you go to one of the home improvement stores you can look at both at the same time.

 

[Empire]

I am with STGrule. The plastic Trex material wont be too expensive, and you will not be back in a few years to redo it again! That stuff should last a long time, and it wont stink the way mildewy carpet does.

 

[big john]

the particular product called TREX is quite limber, and when used as decking requires support every 16 inches. but there are other styles/brands of "plastic" decking.

 

[Smj]

Hey Pig (always wanted to say that to a cop, in fun of course!), I had an almost identicle situation on my EZ-Loader with a 13' Smoker sitting on it. The carpet on the bunks, and the bunks for the most part, lasted me about 7 years. When it came time to replace it I went to home depot and bought a plain old 2x4, that's all they used in the first place, and some indoor outdoor carpet. I really think the plain wood might be easier to nail or staple the carpet to. The indoor outdoor carpet is heavier and cheaper and will last longer than what I saw them selling at FMS and such stores.

I took care of the job with the boat on the trailer by using a hydrolic jack and a 2x4 to lift one side of the boat at a time off the trailer to remove the old bunk. Pull the old carpet off, measure length and hole position, cut and drill the new bunk. I used a stapple gun to hold the carpet on until I put some good nails in to hold the carpet, no nails on top of bunks though.

VOILA!

Smj

I would stay away from the plastic wood uncarpeted if I were you, some of those lakes may have some steep ramps and you don't want that boat sliding of the trailer early.

 

[Space]

I just went through the same situation. If the wood is bad then replace it with some pressure treated boards. If not then go to home depot and buy the very cheap black outdoor carpet. It will last a very long time. About 5 years I would say. Where do you see yourself in 5 years? New boat maybe? Thats what I would do anyway.
THE INEXPENSIVE BUT VERY FUNCTIONAL METHOD
worked for me

SPACE

 

[1pump]

If the wood's good, chuck the carpet and put bunk slides on the bunks. Easier to install than the pain-in-the-arse carpeting (just takes screws) and the boat will unload a lot easier. Sometimes too easy, so leave your bowstrap on 'til you're in the water.

 

[Conspiracy Theory]

Okay, dumb question time. Where can I find the bunk slides? I have a trailer with the carpet and would like to get rid of it and put on the slides but all I can find are small pieces.

I love Ifish. What a great place to find all kinds of good info whether I need it or not.

[ 07-18-2003, 04:42 PM: Message edited by: Conspiracy Theory ]

 

[1pump]

The ones on my PWC trailer are from Power Madd Performance. They come in cool colors, and they're grooved so they don't trap water and dirt between the hull and the slide, and it gives the screws a place to countersink so they don't gouge your boat. But you really don't need to go that route if you don't want to.
Just about every boating catalog has 'em, and I think Cabela's does too. I've seen them in either 1-1/2" width (for 2x4's on edge) or 3" width for the regular bunks.
Probably the easiest and cheapest thing to do is to go to your local plastics place and buy sheets of UHMW. It comes in about any thickness, width, or length you'd need, and it cuts easily on a table saw. I've got some for my boat trailer bunks buried in my shed somewhere, just I haven't got around to installing it yet.
Just make sure you get it flat on the bunks (no warps), use enough stainless steel screws to keep it flat, and countersink 'em so they don't scratch your hull. Pretty easy.