Either terrova or ulterra, 24v, 72” shaft ilink.
Will need more details as you get your new ride dialed.I had a Terrova 54” 55lb ipilot. Worked awesome on a 15’ smoker craft. When I upgraded boat it was under powered. The planets have aligned with certain circumstances. Where I’m able to upgrade everything. Going to run an ultra 80 pound link and have it set up for the one boat net work. I have everything just waiting for the boat to get out of the shop.
Don't forget the batteries. The biggest mistake I see people make is to buy an expensive motor and then go with cheap batteries. Expect to spend $500 - 750 for a good set of lead acid batteries and $850 - 3k+ for lithium batteries.Figure it will cost around $3k. I’m hoping the world will recover and costs will not continue to climb as I don’t have the disposable cash to drop right now.
What kind of FF/GPS do you have? I’m pretty sure you need to have a Humminbird GN2/3/4 series unit (N for Navigation is key) to connect with the Link and the Zero Lines card. I was going to skip it because of the lackluster map coverage, but found a used i-Pilot Link and a GN2 Helix. Ticked me off having to buy a blank Zero Line proprietary card but once you start making your own maps it’s completely worth it. I run a Raymarine FF/GPS with a Navionics card that I love, but the maps I make with the Helix are better. If I wasn’t such a Raymarine fan boy I’d just spend a couple of days making maps with the Humminbird and I’d be good to go. Being able to follow a contour or offset a contour is a GD game changer for Kokanee fishing.Apparently the new lake master V2 has Billy Chinook, Haystack, Wickiup and Prineville Res. For $40 more than the make your own card, three of them I plan on hitting hard if the water ever shows up. Better sleep on this one.