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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Didn't see anything in the archives so...

Aside from price, is there any downside to using steel props rather than aluminum props?

I'm about to take the prop for my 90hp in to be repaired after hitting something submerged in the MC. This will be at least the third repair @ $60 ea. on that prop. Seem like you just nick something and the aluminum deforms.

On the otherhand, it's the relatively soft prop that's absorbing the impact (rather than drive shaft,ect.), so is that the benefit? The aluminum prop is sacrificial and spares the motor?

Accepting that you're gonna discover submerged logs and all, what would you rather be using - aluminum or steel?

[ 06-26-2003, 05:21 PM: Message edited by: garyk ]
 

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SS- better performance (thinner/sharper/more cup/less deflection), higher chance of breaking something if you do hit a big one (driveshaft/gears etc) at speed, usually can't be repaired if you do hit something and ding it (cost more than new to repair), should chew through sticks up to a couple inches with no ill effects.
Tough choice huh? :whazzup:
 

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Try using a prop guard of some kind. Since I started using one no more problems with prop damage. I still use an alum prop. The guard may also save other damage from hitting things under the water.
 

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Garyk,

At the marina, I commented about all the guys with boats in the work racks next to mine who were changing props.

I asked why they didn't use SS props.

Service Manager brought out a broken gear set and said it was the single biggest repair they had with folks with SS props.

They recommend aluminum in the river. If you hit something, the prop bends without transmitting the force through the gear train.

Carry a spare prop and tools to change it was their other recommendation.

Cheaper in every way.

Brion
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sled19, do they make prop guards for larger motors, like my Honda90?

I'm certainly familiar with them in trolling motor sizes, but not larger ones.

I'd like to find one that didn't require drilling into the cavitation plate?

Such a thing would likely pay for itself pretty quick - I've already bought an extra prop ($90), and am averaging about one prop repair ($60) each year.
 

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You will lose performance with a prop guard. If you have more speed and power than you use now, it won't matter. If you like to push your boat to the limit then you will likely be disappointed. Course- You can always buy a bigger $5,000 motor and then put a guard on it to save a couple hundred in prop repairs!
:grin: :wink:

I'd be willing to bet you would burn $60 more fuel per year with the guard. Only one repair a year isn't that bad esp. for fishing the channel for springers. You could always stick a jet on it too!
:depressed:

[ 06-25-2003, 03:04 PM: Message edited by: Miss B Haven ]
 

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But, for use on a kicker, performance is what you aren't looking for. I hit 3 times last week, I don't even wanna know what the prop looks like. :shocked:
Do they make a tupperware prop? :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the point about the performance being inhibited by a prop guard. I don't want to lose any mph. I used to think the boat was pretty zippy, doing about 41mph loaded, and up to 48mph running very light. But now after four years, 40mph no longer feels fast enough.

Guess I'll just accept the $60 annual repair as a cost-of-doing-fishing. With a second prop, it's no big deal, I just keep switching them in and out of service.
 

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Garyk- if it makes you feel any better my props are $1100 each and that was the price in 1993 when the boat was purchased (I have the original option list). I don't know what it cost to repair, a lot. They're Nibral (alum/bronze/nickel alloy)and supposed to be a bear to fix (like SS).

Boat came with 2 spares (thank goodness) and I haven't prop'd it yet. I got two chances I guess- then I get to find out what the current price is! :shocked:
 

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Garyk,

Just reading June issue of "Trailer Boats" and someone asked that in the Tech Question section.

The editor noted that Mercury says that most damage is due lower unit hitting, not from the prop alone hitting and transmitting force to the gear train.

Mercury feels that SS prop would be OK.

Brion
 

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GaryK

I admit it was kind of a gamble but I had the local high school fabricate one in the metal shop. So far it has worked good for me the cost was for material only. They seemed happy to have a new project. My motor is a 1962 75hp Evinrude.
Call them and see what they have to say. They will need the setup for a day or so for measurement and that type of stuff. For cost it might be worth a try worked good for me.
 

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That is probably true Brion, but if you did hit the prop only you stand a better chance of not damaging your outdrive with aluminum.

An old fisherman told me he had many aluminum props straightened (fixed) on different motors and never damaged the outdrive. I know at least 2 people that had SS props damage their outdrives.
 

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Most of the newer stainless props come with a composite bushing that will disintegrate before any damage is done. I can tell the difference in performance of SS vs. Alum. in a heartbeat. Al. flexes under torque. SS does not. I used to got through two to three Alum. props a year a $75 -$85 a pop for repairs. In six years I have replaced one SS prop a a repair cost of $120. Even if you do suffer lower unit damage which is usually due to hitting something very hard, your insurance will absorb most of the shock. Should not happen very often if you run in normal conditions.
 

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An affordable alternative that has worked well for me: www.piranha.com
 

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***, thats a good one :laugh: . so far we have olny hit a couple sand bars just to keep the prop nice and shiny :grin: stainless steel all the way :cheers:

[ 06-26-2003, 09:56 PM: Message edited by: Quick Fisher ]
 

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That is hilarious POSClerk.

Go with Stainless. YOu won't regret it overall.
 
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