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I just love these build threads. I'm very impressed at the skill level and experience so many have on here. And the willingness to share both failures so others wouldn't repeat the same to tricks that work. My hat is off to all these builders as I was one once upon a time.
 
Discussion starter · #62 · (Edited)
Very cool and fun to follow the build. Please keep sharing. I walked around my neighbor's 24' tolman a few weeks ago, "tuna cooner". He bought the kit from you and did a great job putting it together from what I can see. He ran out to 125w and back this year on 34 gallons. I burnt 125 gallons...
Sounds about right on the fuel burn for a 25-26 footer should be getting at least 3mpg, one of the BIG ADVANTAGES of these boats. I don't expect my fuel burn will be much more but I'll be using twin's so I will be a bit more just from the twin's burning more than a single of equal HP. My estimated dry hull weight with motors should be around 4100-4300 pounds. Loaded for Tuna with ice, gear, 4 people ect figuring 6100 to 6300 pounds running heavy. Not bad for a 31 foot boat with cuddy and full wheelhouse, oh yea it's coming out a bit longer than expected at 31' 2". i could have cut it off but couldn't come up with a good reason so let the 2-foot-itis take control :)
 
Discussion starter · #65 ·
That looks really nice. I’m really liking the bow thruster.
Thank you! The GA hull design is a bit shallow for a thruster. It doesn't quite meet all the recommended thruster locations but I'm pretty sure it will work just fine. These hulls are so light it wont take much to geter moving while docking. Worst case scenario is take it out and fill the hole during the off season. I am keeping good future access to the interior should I ever need to do a remodel.
 
Discussion starter · #67 ·
What a shop to do that in..you're a rock star with your buddies..boat looks great. How many hours to this point?
I will admit having a 30,000 square foot cabinet shop helps the build space quite a bit :) so far I have 198 hours invested. I am guessing 1400 to 1600 total hours ready to fish. Looks to be on track so far. Not bad for a 31 foot boat.
Estimated total cost with twin Yamaha 115 hp and trailer 65-70k. New comparable glass or aluminum boat north of 165K
 
I will admit having a 30,000 square foot cabinet shop helps the build space quite a bit :) so far I have 198 hours invested. I am guessing 1400 to 1600 total hours ready to fish. Looks to be on track so far. Not bad for a 31 foot boat.
Estimated total cost with twin Yamaha 115 hp and trailer 65-70k. New comparable glass or aluminum boat north of 165K
A loaded labor rate of about $50/hour....Not bad for a home build! If I were to try and build this it would work out to about $0.10/hour.
 
Discussion starter · #71 ·
Good grief! This is great stuff. Makes it seem like anybody could build one.
Then reality sets in...
Actually almost anyone can build a stich and glue boat. Wood boats with all the frames requires a lot more carpentry type skills. This hull has ZERO frames in it. The 3 vertical 2x4's you see in the pictures are only there to stiffen the side panels. No other framing in the entire boat
 
Discussion starter · #72 · (Edited)
I built a smaller version, tolman jumbo 27' a few years ago. first boat ever, no heated shop, just 20x50 pole building. My cost was about $34k.
GA is similar construction technique
Yep I remember your when you were building. If ya want to stop by the shop and take a look feel free, I love talking boat builds anytime. The GA and Tolman building techniques are pretty much the exact same, I've built both. They are both so sea worthy, I'd run a Tolman or GA up against any similar sized factory built boat in sea trails any day of the week.
 
Actually almost anyone can build a stich and glue boat. Wood boats with all the frames requires a lot more carpentry type skills. This hull has ZERO frames in it. The 3 vertical 2x4's you see in the pictures are only there to stiffen the side panels. No other framing in the entire boat
That is The truth. I built a 24’ Tolman Jumbo after Grady 300 took me for a ride in his 21’ Tolman that is shown in his profile pic.
If you can build a doghouse, you can build a Tolman.
My last tuna trip found me 60 miles out from the Columbia south jetty when I headed in. I ended up burning 38 gallons of fuel with my f115 on that trip. Very seaworthy and efficient to run. I would love to have what Grady is building.
 
Discussion starter · #74 ·
That is The truth. I built a 24’ Tolman Jumbo after Grady 300 took me for a ride in his 21’ Tolman that is shown in his profile pic.
If you can build a doghouse, you can build a Tolman.
My last tuna trip found me 60 miles out from the Columbia south jetty when I headed in. I ended up burning 38 gallons of fuel with my f115 on that trip. Very seaworthy and efficient to run. I would love to have what Grady is building.
I remember that trip, I think it was when we had 50+ MPH winds on the Siletz that weekend. I told myself I wasn't doing that again! HaHa I'm going this weekend to the Siletz and they are forecasting gust up to 40 MPH. Looks like i will never learn :)
 
Discussion starter · #75 ·
Very cool and fun to follow the build. Please keep sharing. I walked around my neighbor's 24' tolman a few weeks ago, "tuna cooner". He bought the kit from you and did a great job putting it together from what I can see. He ran out to 125w and back this year on 34 gallons. I burnt 125 gallons...
Yea they are a very fuel efficient hull, one of the big reasons I go this way. I'm planning on an inside passage trip to Alaska in 2022.
 
Discussion starter · #76 ·
Got the starboard side glass on all in one piece. I always wanted to try the pour with the glass in place method on a vertical surface. Worked better and way easier than I expected. I had to order 60" wide glass to make it work but well worth it. To lay out the glass, tape in place and spread the epoxy only took 2 hours for 2 guys. Not to mention the glass went on beautifully with no wrinkles or seams to sand out later. After taping the glass in place we started wetting out the glass at the top on the chine. We did that with a brush to help hold it all in place when we stated to pour the epoxy on. Having 2 guys each with a squeegee really helps. After all the glass was good and transparent I put on one light skim coat just to make sure the ply did not starve the glass soaking it all up. Port side will get glass next week then the transom.
 

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Chuck,
I did the same thing when glassing the sides of my Tolman and like you, found that it worked well. One thing that I apparently did a little different was to roll on a coat of epoxy before laying down the dry glass. I let it tack up a bit before applying the glass to help it cling to the side. That helped me feel better that I wasn’t starving the plywood of epoxy. In the subsequent coats of epoxy I added a tiny bit of Cabosil to slightly thicken it and help fill the weave.

I’m really enjoying your photos. It gives me the itch to build again, but I’m pretty sure I’d have to have a new wife before that could happen. Too expensive! [emoji38]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Discussion starter · #80 ·
Chuck,
I did the same thing when glassing the sides of my Tolman and like you, found that it worked well. One thing that I apparently did a little different was to roll on a coat of epoxy before laying down the dry glass. I let it tack up a bit before applying the glass to help it cling to the side. That helped me feel better that I wasn’t starving the plywood of epoxy. In the subsequent coats of epoxy I added a tiny bit of Cabosil to slightly thicken it and help fill the weave.

I’m really enjoying your photos. It gives me the itch to build again, but I’m pretty sure I’d have to have a new wife before that could happen. Too expensive! [emoji38]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Thanks Dave! my only concern was also starving the ply from epoxy not wetting it out first, people do it this way all the time. What I did was go back after the glass was all on and rolled a very thin 2nd coat thinking if the ply was pulling epoxy out of the glass my 2nd coat will wet it out the glass. Seamed to work really well. Talc would be a better filler to help fill the weave, cabisol also works but Talc makes it easier to sand. Cabisol is more for structural fillets.
 
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