TH,
Have you loaded for a semi before? I started out loading for a semi on a friend's equipment years ago, and found out I need small base dies.

Sorry I'm no help with the powders listed.



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I haven't, I figure if factory loads feed I should be able to make something work. I guess I'll find out...

 

That powder is too slow for the 165's and for semi-auto Rems. They like a pretty hot load for reliable functioning. I'll give you some max loads that you should work up to. 59 gr, H4350, 60 gr. IMR4350, 52.5 gr. IMR4064. Start a couple grains lower and and mark where the spent cases land upon firing. If the gun doesn't eject the full power loads as far as the lighter loads, that's a sign of excessive pressure in an autoloader. IMR4350 ought to give the best accuracy. But, some of those guns simply can't group well no matter what they're fed. Changing loads won't do a thing. Ya won't know what ya got till you shoot it.

 

Thanks for the info. Even if it doesn't shoot better with hand loads at least it will be less expensive for him to shoot.

 

You might also consider 4895, it's a pretty classic auto powder. I think it's what most use in the M-1, but there are days when my memory isn't what it once was!

 

57gr H4350 with the 165gr Partition is what I would look at.

 

A lot of people also crimp when loading for semi-autos.

 

Hey and if you haven't crimped before....I'd suggest making sure that you've trimmed each case to the same exact length, so you get the same taper crimp on each. Don't ask me how I know.

 

Lots of great tips. Pharmseller, Lucky Guy, Rusty Psoadman.

James In Idaho. Correct. That was a pretty hot load, don't know what it actually was. Probably not in any book...ha ha.

 

The loads I posted are up to date from Hodgdon and won't be found in older publications. Old, non-magnum data, used to top out at around 52,000 psi for just about all the cartridges. Some much lower because of the various surplus actions that many rifles were built on beginning just after WWI. New data is based on modern actions with total disregard for the older stuff. New pressure limits for cartridges like the '06 are now in the neighborhood of 58,000 which exceeds old data for the magnums that topped out at 55,000 psi. New data for the magnums touches on 60,000 psi.

 

I would try 4895 or 4064 in an autoloader.

 

I load 4350 if I remember correctly, but I'm a grain under the max load in the 1972 Hornady book. It's always been the go to for the old 740 woodsmaster.


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Does it look like this one? :wink:



130 barnes and 53 gr IMR 4350.

In my opinion (and as mentioned above) the cartridge sizing is much more important than the load charge unless you are near the very low end of the load data table.

 

It looks much like that one just a bit more bloody from 3 generations of hunters using it as a brush hog from the coast to the Idaho border.


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My semi auto seemed to like H380 and the SB, short base dies are a must in semi's. Good luck

 

Sorry Timber Hunter, don't mean to hijack this thread, but there a ton of very informed people responding to this thread.

I recently had a Remington semi-auto (Model 742 Woodsman) in .308 passed down to me in (I think) pretty good shape. I too am going to handload for it and am starting basically from scratch, hoping some of these guys can share some knowledge with me. I've never loaded for a semi-auto before but have reloaded extensively for .308. Couple of ???s...

- Is it worth the small extra expense to use small base dies? Or will standard dies do the job if I find my load?
- I had my best results in bolt guns with IMR 4895, can I expect similar results in a semi? Or is there a "magic" powder for semis in .308 I need to know about?
- Does anyone know a good place to get a replacement stock and fore end for one of these, particularly in youth size?

Anyway, thanks, sorry to hijack. Just funny this thread showed up a couple days after I got my hands on one of these classics. Can't wait to shoot it.

 

IMR4895 is perfect.

The small base dies size the base of the case down to original dimension for smooth feeding. Standard dies sometimes work.

Small base dies have nothing to do with the "load". They're needed for reliable function.

There are aftermarket stocks for the 742, Google is your friend. At one time Bell and Carlson made them as well.

The faster powders result in lower pressures at the gas port which is a bit easier on the gas system. Slower powders result in higher gas pressure at the gas port in the barrel leading to excessive wear over time as the action really slams open.

 

I don't know that I'd recommend 4895 as that was the classic powder for the Garand. The Garand's gas port is way farther down the barrel, just an inch or so back from the muzzle. The 742's gas port is under the fore end. There are going to be completely different points in the pressure curve. I do agree with using small base dies for maximum reliability. I'd let the barrel twist on your rifle determine the bullet weight.

Check twist using a cleaning rod and tight fitting patch, measure how long it takes your rod to make a full turn.

I've shot tens of thousands of hand loads through semi auto rifles (M1, M1A, AR) and never had a need to crimp the cartridge necks. Measure a few rounds, leave them in the magazine for a few firings and measure again. I'd only consider crimping if your bullets were being set back by recoil.

 

Thank you very, very much waterbobber and adobe wall! That is exactly the information and insight I was looking for. I knew ifish was good for more than yelling at each other about antelope waterholes and ground blinds

Thanks again, guys. My instincts were to start with 4895 and use the small base dies and this helps tremendously.

 

You guys are saving a lot of headache! Thanks for all the great info, going to order the dies soon. I will let you know how it goes!

 

I finally had a couple hours to load some up. I loaded up 3 and went to see if they cycled. First two went off without issue, third round didn't fire. There was a faint dimple in the primer but not enough to set it off.
I loaded three more and the first one went off, then the gun jammed. I untangled the two and put the second cartridge in and boom, third cycled right in but didn't fire. Same tiny dent in the primer.

So I had 4 out of six fire and one jam, I think I may be in over my head with this gun.:doh: I told the kid to go buy a couple boxes of factory loads till I sort this out.

 

The bolt might be dirty and the firing pin is hanging up. A good cleaning is in order. This doesn't sound like an ammo issue.

 

Thanks, I thought it may be an ammo issue since he shot 40 rounds of factory loads through it without fail, could be why it needs cleaning? Who knows how long it's been since it was cleaned...

 

Even with bolt action rifles, I replace the firing pin springs when I buy one, before shooting. Amazing the amount of gunk inside a bolt in older rifles. You might replace the hammer spring when you get the trigger group out, probably needs it. A weak firing pin strike does affect accuracy.

 

The only thing that doesn't make sense is, I tried to fire those that wouldn't fire three more times and they still wouldn't fire. All the the factory loads fire without issue.

It's like the primers are seated too deep

 

I don't know jack about any of that, but how long has your daughter been with her BF?... t wouldn't show him the honey holes and just do the basic hunting grounds until he is proven His worth.

 

They've been together about a year and a half. He's a good young man with great ethics and respect. He will be playing football the night before season opener 6 hours away and I guaranty he will be up and at em when it's time to go the next morning at 4:00 am.

I would guide him to a 190 buck if knew where there was one. He will be hunting the Metolius unit through the first time hunter program and I hope we find him a good buck. I've been on three separate scouting trips searching and have a pretty good idea where we'll be opening day. Weather will dictate what we do.

He has never hunted, but show interest and asked if I would take him, damn right I'll take you kid. I respect the young man, it takes quite a bit for most to earn that with me.

We will clean the old rifle and see what it does, thanks for the tips guys. If we don't get the old auto loader dialed in, my old 25-06 is on stand by. He really likes how it shoots, so do I.

 

I've never owned semi-autos but everyone I've known that has has sooner or later run into problems with dirt build up. In the bolt and the firing pin spring it can happen with any action. Get it cleaned out and try again. Also as I recall, lever actions and semi-auto's I think require small base dies. I have no idea why that is, I think it has something to do with a lack of camming action by the bolt. Someone will correct me on that.

 

Small based dies resize brass a little further down the case and to minimum specifications. The reason they are often recommended for semi-auto reloading is that small based dies should help ensure the round chambers in all rifles (more so than a round resized with standard dies).

 

Small base dies are a plus for those rifles.
If you can get a 2" group you are doing well.
My father had a 740 and it was a "spray and pray" type rig.