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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Spent an hour modifying hotshots last night, and tried a variation which proved a hit tonight.

#60 hotshot dark color with spots. Replaced the treble with a #2 VMC siwash, and the snap with a #25 pound snapswivel. Nothing else, no beadchain, no split ring! Just the single hook pointed down. Stopped at Hanson and nailed 2 steels and landed both...one went about 6, the other about 8! 36 inch leader tied to a 1 oz mooching weight, and a bobber with no stop above it.

It seems like the dynamics of the hook is what was the plus...when I used no split and no beadchain, the hook pivots up and down side to side well but with only a small amount of twist.
Seems like a benefit to me as I had hooked both fish in the lower jaw with a heavy hookset which grabbed them very well.

Anyone else experiment like this?
Ill post a pic of the lure if someone wants to see it. I was psyched it worked so well.

One other Q Are the eyes in the hotshots screws? seems like they are not very strong far a hard fighting fish.
 

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Why is this not on the fishing board? If you want me to transfer it, just whistle it.

J
 

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wheres hanson's?...and were u fishing from a boat?... :shrug:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hanson boat launch on the Nestucca.

My mod was in consideration of nates...no need for a treble hook...weak one for that matter. VMC #2 ia a far sharper and stronger hook.

Small clip was replaced because...well, its small and corrodes easily.

Pic is uploaded... "hotshot" but I havnt had a mouse for a week and cant figure out how to copy the URL from the address bar...someone post it please?
 

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Thanks for the pic and info Row Vs

But I cat see what you used to attach the hook?




[ 07-31-2003, 09:25 PM: Message edited by: prospect1999 ]
 

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Nice looker, although the background is a little distracting. Nice touch though. Where on the Nestuc is Hanson? In tidewater? Thanks for the post. The artist formerly known as cotr???
Mikeymoto
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Heya Mikey..

Prospect...next time your at Joes, ask for VMC siwash open eye hooks.

Attach all by itself with a pair of Needle nosed plyers.

P.S.

I wouldnt exactly recommend the bobber and weight as I explained...but if your able to work the current from upstream keeping a tight line...the bobber will keep you off the bottom...Biiger is better to keep you in the current and allow some line tension to offset the pull of the plug ...The lure didnt spend much time in the strike zone, or in the water for that matter, I was working the current from a shallow angle but dialed in well. Willierower and I have been tossing ideas around for presentation and rigging. do what you can to keep it working from just below the surface to just above the bottom. Boat would be ideal...but its not always an option...I think the upside of a dogleg would be best to hold your line tight and pay some line into the hole while using the bobber with no stop...The first post has a typo...meant to say 1/2 ounce mooch weight which are not easy to find (I pour my own lead)..post ideas!

[ 07-31-2003, 09:47 PM: Message edited by: Row Vs. Wade ]
 

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My Grandpa SWORE on the single hook setup. I’m not incline to argue. I like to see it, It brings back good memories. Maybe sad ones
:depressed:
 

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Thanks Row, Next time I go to Joes I will ask. I don’t see this yet.. Do you have to open the eye of the hook or hotshot? Or am I missing something here?

For the bank fisher how about a Luhr-Jensen Hot Shot Side Planer? I saw one used once at the Sandy River about 2 yrs ago and liked what I saw.
The guy using it called it a poor mans boat.
I just got one and hope to practice with it soon..

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Pr4ospect...Side planer is a good idea...Ive used them here in tidewater on the Siletz with larger plugs. Willierower mentioned this to me tonight but Im wondering about feeling the plug working because its so small...thats important if you ask me...the strike on a plug is usually very ...uhh, obvious? so no worries there.

Siwash VMC siwash has an open eye. Make a habit of replacing the trebles on your spinners and plugs with them. Beadchains, splitrings are must-haves too. I pour mooch weights right over the top of bead chains...very simple. slinky style weights too.
 

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Thanks again for all this great info Row Vs. I am not new to fishing, been fishing on and off since I was a kid. But haven't been very active until I really got into it in the last 3 yrs. I need all the help I can get.
Yes I agree on changing the treble hooks to a single point hook. I have trouble removing them treble hooks and so far haven't hooked a Nate, but if I did I would like the single point hook much better than a treble. Also some places I have fished require a single point hook, and allot of lures all seem to come with them treble hooks. So any info in modifications for this is very much appreciated.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Scout..the more important stop on a bobber is the one above it. When you work current, using weight... the bait or lure is pulled down away from the bobber. Without an upper stop, the current helps you control how far down the lure or bait is allowed to fall, especially if your upsteam from a hole with the current downstream from your rod tip.

So in essence, the bobber isnt prone to traveling down towards your swivel unless you dont allow any line out to offset the pull of current on your bobber.
Because you allow the pull of your weight or lure below the bobber to pull itself down towards the bottom...You use the float to keep it off the bottom not entirely because of its boyancy, but in combination with the current pulling away from you allowing you to apply some resistance to the line. Does this make sense?

Think of the bobber as more like a pully. the line from your rod tip goes horizontally to the pulley, and your bait or lure is suspended vertically below it. Optimally at whatever distance you choose relative to resistance between your line and the current pulling on the bobber. Its a delicate balance.

Ive often used a bobber for one reason, to allow the current to pull my bait into the hole I want it in, and then slacking my line enough for the bait to drop to the bottom of the hole.


Bobbers are much more valuable than strike indicators or a means to supend your bait or lure off the bottom in my opinion. Next time your at a riffle with a nice hole below it that you cant get to...use a bobber to get your bait there keeping the line tight against the current, and then slack off when your over the hole.
Im no pro either, but I like to analyze dynamics, and there is a science to presentation still yet to be either discovered, or shared by those who catch the fish.
Hope this helps

[ 07-31-2003, 11:26 PM: Message edited by: Row Vs. Wade ]
 

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Thanks Row Vs. Wade
This is all new to me as you probably suspected. I really havent fished much since I was a kid. The last Three months I have found a new hobby that I am very much enjoying. I have been plunking the Columbia mainly but plan on doing some drift fishing soon. Just put in an order at First Cast Jigs, I think I will give your experiment a try also.

Thanks for being patient for a newbie..

SS
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sorry ...did some editing.
Im looking forward to others offering opinions too, especially with presentation of this hotshot. Im no pro either...fished a lot of waters for a lot of species, but Steel and Salmon have only been on my target list for a few years, started with fly only so the hardware and bait is still a learning experience.
 
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