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Old 12-26-2012, 01:34 PM   #1
Wintu
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Default Side-drifting Chetco style (Online Seminar)

In the past several years I've enjoyed the chance to side-drift for steelhead throughout the West Coast, from Northern California to the Olympic Peninsula and in Alaska, on such rivers as the Skagit, Sauk, Bogachiel, Skykomish, Kenai, Kasilof, Nehalem, Wilson, Nestucca, Umpqua, Rogue, Klamath and Sacramento.
I've noticed several variations to side-drifting on these rivers, as the locals know what works best on their home rivers. But I've also been able to catch fish on all these systems using the same general technique I use while guiding on the Chetco and Smith.
Here's a quick lesson in side-drifting, Chetco style.


Mike with a couple hatchery steelhead from the Chetco caught while side-drifting roe.

Why side drifting?

If you present a bait to steelhead with a natural presentation, chances are you can get them to bite. The biggest key is getting the bait down to the strike zone - the area where steelhead are holding - and presenting it as naturally as possibly. Side-drifting is the ideal technique for a natural presentation, and is relatively easy for all skills levels. The Chetco is a classic side-drifting river. According to many of the old-time guides here, it is the Chetco and Smith where the modern side-drifting technique was perfected.
For years, on the upper Rogue, guides would target steelhead with a technique known as "rolling shot." They would use fly rods and fly reels spooled with monofilament line, with a few split shot attached to the mainline above a leader with a small hook and a cluster of roe. They would strip out several feet of line and fling it out.
Many of the Upper Rogue guides spent the winters on the Smith and Chetco, and caught fish with their "rolling shot" technique.
Later, fly rods and spinning reels were used. Today, spinning rods made specifically for side drifting and high-tech, lightweight spinning reels are used.
The Smith and Chetco saw the evolution of side-drifting, with local guides first coming up with Puff Balls, and then "sploosh balls," originally known as "Rock skippers."
With side-drifting, guides found they can cover large sections of prime water with a very natural presentation. They maximized their fishing time, and covered miles of rivers, getting their baits in front of untold numbers of steelhead.
(While some of the origins of side-drifting can be traced back to the Smith and Chetco, it also must be noted that forms of side-drifting also were pioneered on the upper Sacramento for rainbows. That technique was then taken to the Cowlitz, where is spread throughout Wasington. Boon-dogging, meanwhile, can be traced back to the Skagit).


Sploosh balls, a generic term for Plunk N Dunks and Mad River Drifters, and even Bouncing Betties, originated on the Northern California coast and are the stand-by weight for side-drifting on the Chetco and Smith rivers.

Sploosh balls and Puff Balls

While many side-drifters in Washington and the Northern Oregon Coast use Corkies, Rags and Cheaters while side drifting, Puff Balls (and now Fish Pills) are a staple on the Chetco and Smith. Adding a Puff Ball (a round piece of styrofoam painted a bright color) to your bait adds a splash of color, and slightly floats the bait above the bottom. Pink is an old favorite, but orange, peach, red, and yellow-orange are popular.
Most anglers on the Chetco and Smith use a piece of roe the size of a fingernail, slightly bigger during off-colored water. I also use a small piece of yarn, tied to the egg loop. This helps my customers pull the egg loop open to add bait. The yarn also gets caught in a steelhead's teeth. But most important it adds more color, and apparently adds an action that steelhead like. I know I've caught a lot more fish using yarn with the roe and Puff Ball than just a Puff Ball and roe.
Sploosh balls, meanwhile, give your baits the most natural drift possible. The current pushes the weight down the exact speed it is flowing. The large mass compared to the light weight creates the natural drift you need when side-drifting. Remember, the more natural you can present your bait, the more likely a steelhead will take it.
The best way to rig a sploosh ball is on a sliding snap swivel placed above a bead and a barrel swivel connecting your leader. The sliding rig will prevent tangles. If you tie a sploosh ball with a fixed rig, chances are the leader will wrap around the sploosh ball and tangle. The bead serves as a bearing and is key for preventing tangles.


A sploosh ball with a small slinky

The new Mad River Drifters come in an unweighted and a weighted version. When I'm fishing heavy water, I still prefer to add a small two- to four-shot Slinky with the sploosh ball. It seems to get down quicker, and stay down.
You want the weight to hit bottom about every 7 to 10 seconds. A constant tap-tap-tap and you are dragging bottom. No taps and you may not be down in the strike zone.
Sometimes, especially in fast deep slots, or when the river is high, a Slinky fishes more effectively than a sploosh ball. I carry 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12 shot slinkies. Again, I'm looking for the weight to tap bottom every 7 to 10 seconds.
Overall, a 3/4 ounce sploosh ball without weight is my favorite side drifting weight.


Roe cured with Pautzke BorxOFire and sugar, and a variety of Puff Balls.

Hot baits

There are many effective cures for steelhead. On the Chetco and Smith, borax-based cures, and Jello cures are popular. My baits are cured with natural colored Pautzke BorxOFire, with sugar added. I use a mixture of 2 parts BorxOFire and 1 part sugar. I'll also add anise oil or anise-krill oil. Steelhead have a sweet tooth, and will hammer a borax-sugar cured egg.
I butterfly the skiens and then cut the clusters into quarter to golf ball size chunks and add a generous coating of the BoraxOFire-sugar mixture, roll the bait around, and then cure for three days in a ziplock bag. I add the anise or krill oil the first day of curing. After three days, I dry the eggs for a few hours and then place them in a jar. They will keep in the fridge for several weeks.
I also carry a second cured bait at all times, usually the Buzz Ramsey three parts borax, two parts sugar, one part salt. It is similar to the BoraxOFire, but without the krill. Sometimes is is what the fish are craving.


Steelhead like the sugar-enhanced cures, and will sometimes swallow the bait if you don't set the hook quick enough.


The ideal bait size, with a small piece of yarn, and a Puff Ball.


Depending on flows, I use a size 4 to a size 1 hook. A size 2 octopus hook, pictured above, is ideal. It is plenty big enough to hold a big steelhead, yet light enough it won't sink straight to the bottom and hang up. I've used several brands and sizes of hooks, and now use nothing but Lazer Sharp size 4, 2 or 1. These are strong and sharp, and generally cost less than many other brands.
For a leader I use 10 or 12 pound test monofilament during most flows, and 10 to 12 pound fluorocarbon during low, clear conditions. I use mono when I can.


A size 2 hook has plenty of holding power for most steelhead. Here's an ideal hook up in the corner of the jaw.


Here's Paul with a trophy Chetco steelhead caught on a size 2 Lazer Sharp hook and roe cured with Pautzke BorxOFire enhanced with sugar and anise-krill oil.


My favorite side-drifting set up - a Wright & McGill side drifting rod and reel.

Rods and mainline

Another key to side drifting is making sure everything is matched up. If one guy is using a heavy casting rod and the other a light spinning rod, it's hard for the rower to detect a strike. Generally the guy rowing will know you are getting bit before you do (more on that later). Also matching line diameter is crucial. You will not get a good drift if one angler is using 10-pound mainline and another is using 15. One will be pushed downstream quicker than the other. You want all your baits to drift down stream naturally at the same speed.
While many Chetco and Smith guides still use a 7-foot-9 Loomis Hot Shot rod in a spinning rod version (which are no longer available), longer rods are now catching on. I use a 9-foot Wright & McGill Side Drifting rod rated for 6- to 10-pound-test line. This rod takes the guess work out of seeing a bite. It also has plenty of power for fighting big steelhead, and I think you lose less fish with a longer, flexible rod. For mainline I use 12- or 15-pound PLine fluorescent blue. The line is strong, and you can see it while side drifting. For leader, I use either Trilene XT mono 12 or 10, or Trilene Professional Grade Fluorocarbon, which is strong and invisible.


A customer fights a Chetco steelhead with a Wright & McGill 9-foot side drifting rod. Plenty of power for big steelhead, long casts and seeing a bite.


An angler enjoys the fight of a Chetco steelhead.

See the bite, don't feel it.

When side-drifting, I tell my customers to look for the bite. You will see the bite instead of feel it. When you feel it, it generally is the weight hitting the bottom. Look for a dip in the rod tip and then a flutter.
The 9-foot Wright & McGill side drifter, as well as other longer, lightweight spinning rods, are ideal for seeing the bite.
Remember, a steelhead is facing upstream when it sees your bait. When it bites, it is stationary, while the boat continues to move downstream. The bite will first appear as a dip of the rod tip and then a flutter or slight tap-tug-tap.
When you see the rod dip, it's either a fish or a hang up. If you see the flutter after the dip, set the hook hard. If the rod just dips down and stays down for more than a few seconds, lift up. This will often pull the rig away from the bottom and prevent a hang up.

Casting order
When fishing on the right side of the boat, I have the person sitting on the right cast first, slightly upstream to about the oar lock. I then have the person on the left cast straight out below the first line. Both lines are fished on the same side, parallel to each other. You don't want one too far upstream or downstream.
I then slow the boat just enough to works the lines to about the bow of the boat. I don't want to drag them behind, but I also don't want them pushed to the surface too far downstream.
Sitting, I like the customers to hold to rod tips eye level. That way they can see the bite, and I can see the rod tip and lines as a row.

Drift fishing from a moving boat
Often the people who have the hardest time catching fish side drifting are the die-hard, expert bank drift fishermen. They know how to keep their baits moving downstream and get a good presentation from shore.
But often they end up messing up the presentation while side drifting because they have such a hard time just letting the bait do its thing.
The first key to side drifting is waiting until the rower is ready. The boat has to have momentum doing downstream before you cast, otherwise the current will quickly pull the bait downstream and to the surface. Just because you can hit the perfect water doesn't mean you should just fire off a cast. Side drifting is a team effort, and requires some patience. The rower will say how far out to cast (most of the way across, halfway across, 20 feet out, etc.), and will then control the boat to get the baits to drift down naturally.
When you can get back upstream, you should make several passes to cover all the water. Start out with a short cast, then five feet further out on each pass to cover all the water on each following drift.
Stay seated, because it's a pain to get a good drift when one person is standing up, not only blocking your view downstream, but also making the boat lean and wonder from one side to the other.
Immediately after casting, reel in the initial slack, and then stop. Don't keep reeling because you will just be bringing the bait back to the boat. A slight belly in the line is OK, since it will be moving downstream with the boat. Keep in mind at all times, you are trying to get your bait in the zone, and keep it there, with a natural presentation.


Relatively little gear is needed to side drift, but it is a good idea to have plenty of what you need. When you hang up, simply point the rod tip at the snag, hold the spool to prevent line from coming off the reel, and bust the leader. Then row to the side, re-rig, and resume fishing. Remember, you will lose gear when steelhead fishing. If you aren't, you probably are not getting your gear in the zone.


When side-drifting, you have the chance to get some pretty high numbers in terms of hook ups and fish landed. You are covering lots of water, putting your bait in front of a lot of fish. Catches like this are common when side-drifting.

Anyone wanting a hands-on lesson in side-drifting can book a trip by visiting www.wildriversfishing.com. Also feel free to email if you have any questions on rigging up, curing eggs, or side-drifting in general.

- Andy Martin
Wild Rivers Fishing
Chetco on ifish.net

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Last edited by Wintu; 12-26-2012 at 02:01 PM. Reason: Typos fixed.
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Old 12-26-2012, 01:48 PM   #2
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Default Re: Side-drifting Chetco style (Online Seminar)

Great post. Thank you for taking the time to discribe all the steps, cure's, rods, gear, etc.... It was like I was in the boat with you.
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Old 12-26-2012, 01:52 PM   #3
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Outstanding post. Thank you for taking the time, this one will help a lot of people out.
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Old 12-26-2012, 01:54 PM   #4
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Awesome tutorial!
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Old 12-26-2012, 02:11 PM   #5
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Wow Andy, that's some great information..............

Thanks a lot............
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Old 12-26-2012, 02:19 PM   #6
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Great post! Recently bought a Driftboat and going to start side drifting. This post will help out a lot. Thanks again.
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Old 12-26-2012, 02:29 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Sambo View Post
Great post! Recently bought a Driftboat and going to start side drifting. This post will help out a lot. Thanks again.
One thing that isn't posted in the tutorial is the the rower cannot fish. The rower needs to be focused on rowing. It may seem obvious, or crazy, but I've fished with people who try to fish while rowing and it simply does not work.
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Old 12-26-2012, 02:34 PM   #8
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One thing that isn't posted in the tutorial is the the rower cannot fish. The rower needs to be focused on rowing. It may seem obvious, or crazy, but I've fished with people who try to fish while rowing and it simply does not work.
It definitely works better when the rower concentrates on rowing, but it can be done...
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Old 12-26-2012, 02:35 PM   #9
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Default Re: Side-drifting Chetco style (Online Seminar)

Thanks, Andy!

That is some really good info!

Any tips on solo side drifting? I sometimes have a hard time keeping the boat straight while tending to my presentation.


Last edited by rowmanholiday; 12-26-2012 at 02:37 PM. Reason: Didn't see WSU's post
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Old 12-26-2012, 02:40 PM   #10
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It definitely works better when the rower concentrates on rowing, but it can be done...
It can be done but is less effective. IMO the boat will catch less fish if the rower tries to fish while sidedrifting. You simply cannot control the boat as well when trying to fish.
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Old 12-26-2012, 02:41 PM   #11
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Thanks, Andy!

That is some really good info!

Any tips on solo side drifting? I sometimes have a hard time keeping the boat straight while tending to my presentation.

Get a buddy? In all seriousness, I use a different tactic when solo.
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Old 12-26-2012, 02:43 PM   #12
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I think that if you have some coordination and set the boat up right before you cast it's possible...I have done it on the Sandy many a time...just cross up your oars then cast away.
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Old 12-26-2012, 02:47 PM   #13
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I'm not saying that you can't try it or catch fish by fishing when rowing (I have), but I think you will catch less fish over all. Right on if it works well for others!
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Old 12-26-2012, 02:50 PM   #14
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Get a buddy? In all seriousness, I use a different tactic when solo.
Yeah, I am more of a plug puller, than a side drifter. I just like to try to improve at things I think need improvement. And I definitely need improvement with side drifting!

I have used the butt/butt method, but still have a hard time, now and then.

To get a buddy, I would probably have to take a bath!

Thanks again, Andy! This will be great help!


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Old 12-26-2012, 03:54 PM   #15
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There are times when I'll toss a line out while fishing people up front. I'm more likely to do it when I just have a single to get another bait in the water.

But be careful when fishing from the rower's seat. Your first priority has to be the lines of the guys up front. If you don't concentrate on keeping the boat in line, and keeping the baits in the zone, you won't catch anything.

On the long flats, which the Chetco is famous for, I'll fling a line upstream behind the boat after my customers cast and then sit on the rod butt and leave it. Don't take time adjusting your line, because you will mess up the lines in front. Occasionally while dragging a bait on your rod you will nail a fish.

If fishing by yourself, cast out to the side and then concentrate on rowing. Long flats are the best place to do this. Seems like everytime you grab your rod to adjust it your boat makes it way into the middle of the river, so handle your rod as little as possible.

One thing that may help when fishing by yourself (or with passengers for that matter) is to angle the bow slightly toward the drift. That way you can pull back away from the baits. You can also scull, although doing it over time may cause problems for your wrists and elbows (don't scull if you aren't using flexible, wood oars, like Sawyer Lites and DynaLite blades).
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Old 12-26-2012, 04:24 PM   #16
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Great post Andy. Thanks for the information.
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Old 12-26-2012, 04:30 PM   #17
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What is sculling?
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Old 12-26-2012, 05:23 PM   #18
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Hot baits

There are many effective cures for steelhead. On the Chetco and Smith, borax-based cures, and Jello cures are popular. My baits are cured with natural colored Pautzke BorxOFire, with sugar added. I use a mixture of 2 parts BorxOFire and 1 part sugar. I'll also add anise oil or anise-krill oil. Steelhead have a sweet tooth, and will hammer a borax-sugar cured egg.
I butterfly the skiens and then cut the clusters into quarter to golf ball size chunks and add a generous coating of the BoraxOFire-sugar mixture, roll the bait around, and then cure for three days in a ziplock bag. I add the anise or krill oil the first day of curing. After three days, I dry the eggs for a few hours and then place them in a jar. They will keep in the fridge for several weeks.
I also carry a second cured bait at all times, usually the Buzz Ramsey three parts borax, two parts sugar, one part salt. It is similar to the BoraxOFire, but without the krill. Sometimes is is what the fish are craving.



First of all, thanks for an informative post. I have 2 questions about your bait curing process:

1) Do you store your bait any differently if it's going to be more than "several weeks" before it's fished?

2) I also often add Anise to my eggs with one big difference to what you do. I'll thaw my eggs the night before, lay them out and then add the anise or whatever other oil-based scent I'm using. I find the scent on the eggs to be a bit more "powerful" the day I use them when I do this. Clearly, your system works but I'm hesitant to commit eggs to a particular scent ahead of time as it's sometimes months before I use them and don't always know what fishery they'll be used for.....different scents for different fisheries. Do you think I'm handicapping myself by doing the night before method? I catch my fair share but hey, if there's room for improvement, I'm all ears.
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Old 12-26-2012, 05:32 PM   #19
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First of all, thanks for an informative post. I have 2 questions about your bait curing process:

1) Do you store your bait any differently if it's going to be more than "several weeks" before it's fished?

2) I also often add Anise to my eggs with one big difference to what you do. I'll thaw my eggs the night before, lay them out and then add the anise or whatever other oil-based scent I'm using. I find the scent on the eggs to be a bit more "powerful" the day I use them when I do this. Clearly, your system works but I'm hesitant to commit eggs to a particular scent ahead of time as it's sometimes months before I use them and don't always know what fishery they'll be used for.....different scents for different fisheries. Do you think I'm handicapping myself by doing the night before method? I catch my fair share but hey, if there's room for improvement, I'm all ears.
If I know I won't be using the eggs for a while I freeze them in a jar with the top of the eggs covered with borax. There doesn't seem to be a major difference in how the eggs fish weather they have been in the fridge for a month, or in the freezer.

I add the anise to the eggs as they are cured because the eggs will first expel liquid and then soak it back up, so the scent is now inside the eggs. It seems when steelhead burst those eggs while biting they get a taste of the scent and often swallow. The only scent I add when curing is anise, or anise-krill. I sometimes use sand shrimp, shrimp or squid, and add them as I cut up the eggs in the morning.

Speaking of cutting up eggs, I cure them in larger pieces than I fish. They take the cure well, and remember, you can always go smaller when fishing, but not bigger. I'll use larger baits in high, off-colored water, and go smaller as the conditions dictate.

Also, early in the season (December) I like to use Chinook eggs. I find they fish just as well as steelhead eggs then. I'll save the eggs from steelhead for later in the season, when they fish better. Natural-colored eggs seem to work best, or eggs with a little pink or orange dye. I don't use red dye for steelhead, although I've been to rivers to the north where red eggs work really well.
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Old 12-26-2012, 05:39 PM   #20
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I didn't talk about maximizing fishing time, and making sure prime water isn't passed because anglers aren't ready. It is really important to have the hooks baited and ready to go. I tell the customers to lock and load them, and be ready to cast. When I say OK, cast most of the way across, that's not the time to be baiting up. There also will be times we are moving down river quickly (because of fast water) and we only have one shot at a particular run. Cast whatever you have, even if it's just yarn or yarn and a Puff Ball. A partial bait is better than not getting anything out there.

I try to pull over and have my guys rebait, and then continue downstream fishing. The yarn on the egg loops helps speed up the baiting.

For bait size, smaller is generally better. I see some people use extremely large clusters when steelhead fishing. Just a few eggs, a Puff Ball and yarn is all you need. In low water, just an egg or two will do.

Human scent also seems to be less of a factor for steelhead compared to salmon. I don't wear gloves and while I'll offer gloves to my customers, I don't think they are as important when side-drifting. It's a fast presentation and the visual sense seems to be the most important. Scent comes into play the most as the fish bites. If they like the scent and taste they will hold on longer. There are a lot of fish caught on just yarn with no scent. But I think good roe, yarn and a Puff Ball catches the most fish.
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Old 12-26-2012, 06:42 PM   #21
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Awesome post
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Old 12-26-2012, 06:43 PM   #22
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It can be done but is less effective. IMO the boat will catch less fish if the rower tries to fish while sidedrifting. You simply cannot control the boat as well when trying to fish.
it works if the rower lets mr minn kota take over
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Old 12-26-2012, 07:04 PM   #23
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"I'll fling a line upstream behind the boat after my customers cast and then sit on the rod butt and leave it. Don't take time adjusting your line, because you will mess up the lines in front. Occasionally while dragging a bait on your rod you will nail a fish."

The first rod casted gets handed to me and then I sit on it as well. Then the guys up front proceed as usual. You are right about messing around with it, it will ruin the drift for your dudes. And I will say that when you do get bit and aren't paying attention to your rig, the rod will start bucking under your butt and will probably startle the hell out of you! I have landed plenty of fish this way....

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Old 12-26-2012, 07:12 PM   #24
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Ok, once again....This is a great post ! BUT I have had nice success by myself...rowing hard to slow the craft and setting up so I can get the best drift while casting. By myself or with a frontseater. The past few years I've had the pleasure of having Mr. Minn Kota (101-3-x) at my service and he can point the boat and change the speed that we go thru a drift. Then go up and do it all over again

Sidedrifting is not as complicated as everyone makes it out to be.
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Old 12-26-2012, 07:17 PM   #25
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Default Re: Side-drifting Chetco style (Online Seminar)

Great thread.
I first saw the technique (rolling shot) in '85 on the Chetco.
Put in at South Fork and floated that beautiful river for the first time that day.
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Old 12-26-2012, 07:23 PM   #26
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Default Re: Side-drifting Chetco style (Online Seminar)

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The first rod casted gets handed to me and then I sit on it as well. Then the guys up front proceed as usual. MH
Yup. If you have a good guy up front, they can cast the rower's rod to get things rolling. Makes a big difference in keeping the boat in line.

Again, great thread!
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Old 12-26-2012, 07:32 PM   #27
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Default Re: Side-drifting Chetco style (Online Seminar)

This is a guru giving a lifetime lesson with all the pics. Most detailed post by a guide I've ever seen on IFISH. And it came with follow up answers to questions.
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Old 12-26-2012, 08:12 PM   #28
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Default Re: Side-drifting Chetco style (Online Seminar)

Great post full of detail! I'm sure lots of guys will learn something. Thanks
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Old 12-26-2012, 08:13 PM   #29
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Default Re: Side-drifting Chetco style (Online Seminar)

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This is a guru giving a lifetime lesson with all the pics. Most detailed post by a guide I've ever seen on IFISH. And it came with follow up answers to questions.
agreed, pretty great thread. if I was ever in need of a south coast guide, he would have my business, posts like this show you he really would try to teach his clients, not just get through the trip. I remember another similar and great one on rogue springers last year, fun to read
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Old 12-26-2012, 09:25 PM   #30
Ol Calhoon
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Default Re: Side-drifting Chetco style (Online Seminar)

Very helpful post. I'm brand new to runnin and fishing out of a boat. Ty very much
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Old 12-27-2012, 05:21 AM   #31
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Default Re: Side-drifting Chetco style (Online Seminar)

I must say that your post is quite complete with precise details of the side-drifting technique. And with numerous helpful hints added to aid in dialing in the method that may have been cloudy to some. As is known, ignorance is easily cured with education and you Sir have presented explicit detail and education.

Great job.
Thanks
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Old 12-27-2012, 06:27 AM   #32
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Default Re: Side-drifting Chetco style (Online Seminar)

That's one of the best tutorials, yet. Thanks for being so specific. I have been making a few mistakes that you pointed out.Especially the direction and order of the casts!
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Old 12-27-2012, 06:47 AM   #33
AlseaAssassin
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Default Re: Side-drifting Chetco style (Online Seminar)

Great post Andy! I have a question for you though:

Do you recommend the 1/4 ounce weighted sploosh balls or 1/4 ounce unweighted sploosh balls then add slinky if need be? I used the weighted versions last year on the Clackamas with quite a bit of success but thought they might be tapping to much (despite catching quite a few fish). Then I switched to the unweighted version and I didn't think they tapped enough (which always makes me nervous that I'm missing fish). Thanks in advance.

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Old 12-27-2012, 09:48 AM   #34
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Default Re: Side-drifting Chetco style (Online Seminar)

Can U say "TECH TIPS"
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Old 12-31-2012, 06:19 PM   #35
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Default Re: Side-drifting Chetco style (Online Seminar)

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Great post Andy! I have a question for you though:

Do you recommend the 1/4 ounce weighted sploosh balls or 1/4 ounce unweighted sploosh balls then add slinky if need be? I used the weighted versions last year on the Clackamas with quite a bit of success but thought they might be tapping to much (despite catching quite a few fish). Then I switched to the unweighted version and I didn't think they tapped enough (which always makes me nervous that I'm missing fish). Thanks in advance.
I use the 3/4 unweighted as much as possible. That's what I use when I add the slinky.

The weighted version does tap a lot, but is good in water deeper than 6 feet that is fast. If it's a short run, a slinky works best, but if it's a longer run, longer than a couple hundred feet, then the sploosh ball will get a better extended drift.

Also remember to set up the drift in advance. A lot of times we cast into fast water where they may not be fish, but we are allowing the bait to get down and into the zone when you first get to the "fishy" water.
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Old 12-31-2012, 06:51 PM   #36
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Default Re: Side-drifting Chetco style (Online Seminar)

Great and informative post although I have never had a opportunity to try it. What is the advantage of side drifting compared to using a bobber and bait/jig?
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:35 PM   #37
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Tech tips n keepers material right here!
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:40 AM   #38
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Default Re: Side-drifting Chetco style (Online Seminar)

Any tips for keeping the fish pill snugged up to your bait like in the pic? Mine always ends up in the bend of the hook making my bait look like two pieces. Maybe the fish don't care (probably don't) but it would make me feel better keeping everything together.
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:29 AM   #39
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Default Re: Side-drifting Chetco style (Online Seminar)

Andy Martin you make learning fun!
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:47 AM   #40
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Default Re: Side-drifting Chetco style (Online Seminar)

Great seminar going on here! What is this blue flourecent p-line main line you speak of? Is it something new?
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Old 02-09-2013, 04:45 PM   #41
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Default Re: Side-drifting Chetco style (Online Seminar)

Good Stuff!! Have been seeing tons of happy clients holding fish Andy put them on via Facebook. This post reaffirms that if I decide to take a guided trip down south, Andy will be the one!
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Old 02-09-2013, 09:35 PM   #42
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Default Re: Side-drifting Chetco style (Online Seminar)

Great post!

Thank you.
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