Best time to change fluids?

[jokofish]

I am going to do an oil/lower end/filer change on my Yami's. Is it better to do it before storing for the winter or wait till I start using it again in a few months?

[team anarchy]

Don't think it matters. Change when your hour meter says to.

[pearl]

Between Christmas and New Years while on vacation.
Just in time for Spring salmon season.

[joeer77]

I do it every September before it gets cold and rainy. Not fun in nasty weather.

[The Pew]

One theory on lower end oil changes is to do it before it freezes if your boat is stored where it can freeze.

The idea is that if you had a lower end seal issue and got water in your lower end, you don’t want it freezing, expanding and causing damage.

A bit of a stretch but I can see it’s viability as a reason.




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[namu mac]

I would say do it before you put it away for the winter. That way if there’s any contaminates in the crankcase you can eliminate them. Examples water and fuel can sometimes be found in your oil. Do it early and it’s done, why procrastinate?


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[LGB]

I agree with namu mac's comments.
If you wait any contaminants just have more time to cause problems.

While probably not necessary I also spray the inside of the pistons with fogging oil. Good time to check the spark plugs (coat the threads with anti seize compound) and put dielectric grease on the wire cups to keep out moisture and make them easier to pull off.

It would also be good to drain any residual fuel in the engine components or at least run some fuel treated with a stabilizer and cleaner like Seafoam through it. If you keep you fuel tank full in the off season I would also add a stabilizer to it.

Don't forget you water pump impeller and thermostat if it is more than 3 years old, replace it.

[Threeweight]

I like to pull my boat out once a month and run it, even if it's just in the driveway.

IMO, letting it sit all winter without being used is harder on the motors than even 10 minutes of run time every 30 days.

I change fluids at the beginning of the season (usually in Feb/early March). My theory is then the oil change removes any condensation/fuel contamination that has accumulated in the crank case from not being run hard over the winter.

Just be sure to raise/lower the motor several times after running it, to drain all the water from the cooling passages and eliminate the risk of freeze damage. I try to store mine in the down position whenever possible.

[MattPark]

If you don't use your boat throughout the year, I agree as well. This also gives you a chance to get repairs done before you want to get back on the water, say if you found water in the lower unit or something. The Pew's concern about cracking due to water intrusion can happen. Lowering the outboard to be sure all of the water is drained is important as well.

I would not drain fuel from your fuel injected main outboard, nor is there a provision to do it. Good non E (or even ethanol fuel) will be fine for a few months, even without stabilizer. Stabilizer is never a bad idea, but I'd pick plain ethanol free over stabilized anything.

My boat gets maintenance based on engine hours, but it's used at least a few times a month throughout the winter.

[Salmonkiller78]

Originally Posted by MattPark

Good non E (or even ethanol fuel) will be fine for a few months, even without stabilizer. Stabilizer is never a bad idea, but I'd pick plain ethanol free over stabilized anything.

I only use non-E and use stabilizer on every fill up.. I also use my boat at least once a month throughout out the winter season.

Originally Posted by MattPark

My boat gets maintenance based on engine hours, but it's used at least a few times a month throughout the winter.

My kickers engine and lower unit oil are changed based on the hour meter.. but my main doesnt rack up as many hours and gets changed annually in the spring time.... Do u think i should stick to the hour meter on the main for oil changes intervals as well?


I running full synthetic oil on both engines.

[MattPark]

Originally Posted by Salmonkiller78

My kickers engine and lower unit oil are changed based on the hour meter.. but my main doesnt rack up as many hours and gets changed annually in the spring time.... Do u think i should stick to the hour meter on the main for oil changes intervals as well?

I running full synthetic oil on both engines.

I think annually, or every X amount of hours, whichever comes first is a good plan. It also forces you to pull the cowling and look around, even if we don't know what we are looking at It's also a good time to hose the powerheads down with WD40/Corrosion X or whatever you have handy.

[Salmonkiller78]

Originally Posted by MattPark

It also forces you to pull the cowling and look around, even if we don't know what we are looking at It's also a good time to hose the powerheads down with WD40/Corrosion X or whatever you have handy.

oh yeah.... I spray a saltaway/water solution under the cowling followed by a nice coating of Boeshield 2 times a season.

[jokofish]

OK All great information and advice. Thank you all for your thoughtful responses. I really appreciate it.