penn 320 gt2 rebuild -
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Old 10-01-2005, 08:17 PM   #1
alantani's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: saratoga, ca
Posts: 514
Default penn 320 gt2 rebuild

would anyone be interested in this?

for $100, the penn 320 gt2 is a pretty amazing reel. it has 4/0 penn 113h guts, an aluminum spool that's slightly small than a squidder, two ball bearings for the spool, a level wind mechanism that's actually fairly reliable, several handle options, and a very solid, full cage, graphite frame. ok, so it's ugly. let's just call it a diamond in the rough.

start with a schematic from, get some shimano drag grease, a bottle of reel x, a little yamaha engine grease, a penn handle nut wrench, a small flat screwdriver, a pointed sharp dental tool, and a large towel that your wife will not miss. spread everything out. ready?

ok, so you don't really want the reel to go "boing" but you are interested in a little maintenance. no problem. you start the same. follow along with the schematics....

1. find and remove the four right side plate screws (key #32).

2. remove the entire right side plate assembly in one piece. nothing will go "boing" at this point.

3. remove the spool. you now have three separate pieces.

4. lube the spool shaft (key #29L), the left side bearing (key #40), the idler gear (key #64), the worm gear (key #42), the right side bearing that's pressed into the bridge (key #3), and the eccentric cam (key #19) with a drop or two of corrosion x.

5. if you don't have a clamp on this reel, install one first. slap the reel back together and you're done.

for general maintenance, i recommend that you strip off all the line after every fishing trip (hey, it's only 2 bucks!), thoroughly hose off the reel, blow out all the excess water with compressed air, respool the reel with fresh mono and reset the drags. every few fishing trips, lube the reel as described above. your drags will certainly seize up if they are not greased. if you ask, a local shop might be willing to pull the drags and grease them, or you can do it yourself. want to give it a try? good. you'll start by repeating steps #1 through #4 above.

5. look very carefully at the dog (key #15) and the dog spring (key #14). remember the orientation and position. lot's of guys screw this up. don't you be one of them.

6. remove the handle and star (keys #23A, #23, #24, #8, #10 and #9) in order.

7. orient the side plate so that the outside of the plate is facing up. back out the four center bridge screws (key #16 and 17), but leave them in position. you're committed.

8. place your left index and middle fingers over the four bridge screws to hold them in place, flip the side plate upside down and examine the inside of the bridge.

9. rotate the half circle backing plate of bridge (key #3) counterclockwise 90 degrees. note carefully the position of the dog (key #15), the dog spring (key #14), the eccentric jack (key #11), the pinion yoke (key #12), the pinion gear. the pinion yoke in particular has to be installed correctly, and the eccentric jack goes on top of the yoke.

10. remove the dog and dog spring as a unit.

11. remove the bridge assembly and main gear cluster as a unit. you should be able to wiggle it out and still leave the pinion gear, yoke and eccentric in place.

12. flip the side plate back over so that the bridge screws will not fall out, leave the pinion gear, yoke, eccentric jack, clutch springs and bridge screws in place. they should stay there.

13. orient the bridge/gear cluster with the gear sleeve (key #98) facing up. remove the metal washer (key #7) , friction drag washer (key #6), main gear (key #5) and fiber washer (key #4) in order. keep them in order. note that there are two types of metal drag washers, slotted (s) and keyed (k), they alternate with the ht-100 drag washers (d).

14. slap a liberal amount of shimano drag grease on each of the carbon fiber ht-100 drag washers and rebuild the bridge/gear cluster in order. starting with the bridge, the order is fiber washer, main gear, drag washer, slotted metal, drag, keyed metal, drag, slotted, drag, keyed, drag, slotted and done. set the bridge/gear cluster aside.

15. now place two left fingers back over the four bridge screws, flip the bridge back over and check to make sure the screws, springs, yoke, pinion gear and eccentric are still in place.

did the guts fall out when you flipped the side plate over? bummer! you have to rebuild it. there are four bridge screws. two are threaded at just the tip. the clutch springs ride up and down on these. two are threaded the entire length. don't mix them up. insert the four bridge screws. cover two screws with your left index finger, cover two with your left middle finger. the side plate should be oriented so that the free spool lever is closest to the palm of your hand.

note that you can now flip over the site plate and play with the guts of the reel without the screws falling out. you do not need to use masking tape anymore.

flip the side plate over and look at the empty guts. install the clutch springs. install the pinion gear and yoke as a unit. install the eccentric jack.

16. install the bridge/main gear/drag assembly. orient the bridge plate to it's final position just to get your bearings. now rotate the bridge plate 90 degrees counter-clockwise. install the dog with the spring attached.

17. rotate the bridge plate clockwise until it lines up with the bridge screws. cinch down each screw. use a small dental tool to place the loose end of the dog spring back over the post. check to see that the freespool lever works. check the anti-reverse mechanism.

18. reassemble the reel by reversing steps #1 through #6. when the reel is finally assembled, you need to make sure you can get 20#'s of drag. if not, one of the keyed metal washers is probably not seated properly. you have to do this all over again.

19. consider dumping the stock handle for a 4/0 power handle (part #24-349h). when cinching down the handle nut (key #23), turn the nut down until it seats, then crank it around hard until you reach the next notch and the lock screw (key #23A) fits. the handle nut is better off too tight than too loose.

20. have a beer.

putting this together took a fair amount of time. if you guys try this, you have to promise to post your results. it's important to me to know how well this works for you. good luck, alan

grady white 258 journey, twin yamaha 150 4 strokes
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