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Old 06-07-2002, 08:26 AM   #1
Lured In
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Default More on black powder...

Since the previous thread was getting a little diluted from subject, I thought I would start a fresh one that got into some of the "hunting material."

Timber posted a good recommendation to go with "conicals" instead of round ball. This is especially important for elk with a .50 Cal. I have done some psuedo ballastics calculations and done some additional reading on this as I am most interested in being accurate with my .54 Cal out to 100 yards. I have found my hawken (1:48 twist) does not like conicals very much. The hawken was the "bubble gun" that allowed the newly invented conicals to be shot in the same gun as round ball with reasonable accuracy. I have found this to be somewhat of a comprimise on both counts.

I shoot 110 grains of black powder with my patched round ball and can consistently be inside 6" at 100 yards. With conicals I occassionally can make it inside 8" with 12" patterns more the norm.

The slower the twist in your barrell the better it will shoot round ball and the faster turns will shoot conicals much better.

Here is my .02 on sighting in a black powder rifle for conicals. (or roundball for deer). My goal when doing this is find the "flatest" combination that has no more the two inches high at 50 yards, dead on at 100, and 2-3" low at 150 yards. You will have to try different charges and projectiles to find this.

1. Pick a solid charge to start with, for .50 cal perhaps 90 grains and for .54 cal start with 100 grains. Be sure to check manufacturer recommendations as you do not want to exceed the gun specs.
2. Round balls are cheap use those to get on the paper at 25 yards with the above load.
3. Shoot no less than groups of 3.
4. After getting on the paper at 25 and getting horizontally and vertically aligned. Switch to your selected conical.
5. Shoot no less than 3 rounds before adjusting your sights. (More than likely the conical will be low and maybe off to one side. You may even consider getting it to pattern about an inch or two high as the bullet is still rising at this distance).
6. Adjust your sights and run 3 more conicals at 25 yards. (Yes now we have shot at least 9 rounds and are still at 25 yards.)
7. If you are happy with the results of the second group of 3 move out to 50 yards and shoot another 3 conicals.
8. If the pattern was centered but less than 3 inches high don't adjust anything and go out to 75 yards. Run 3 more. If you are low, bring up you sights. (At this distance, if you are high at 50 and low at 75, you are "lobbing" the round and it has too much arc in its trajectory.)
9. Once satisfied with being and inch or two high at 75 yards go to 100 and try to get dead on.
10. Once dead on at 100, call it a day and come back another day and start it all over. I always start shooting at 25 yards and work out.

Repeat this until you are slightly high at 25 yards, a couple inches high at 50, a little high at 75 and dead on at 100. This does two things. It allows you to model the trajectory of the projectile and verify you are shooting flat. It also gives you a perspective for what the gun patterns like at different distances. 3 years ago, I hadn't started doing this yet and was only shooting at 100 yards for dead on. I was shooting 90 grains with patched round ball for muzzleloader deer season. I almost missed a nice forked horn buck at 25 yards! I hit him right in the spine and knocked out a vertabrea. The point is, I was lobbing the round out to 100 yards and was 6" high at 25 yards! :shocked:

By bumping up to 110 grains I was able to shoot much flattter and ballasitcally get better energy without sacrificing accuracy.

Keep in mind that too much of a charge will "strip" the round as it runs down the barrel. This is especially true with round ball in tight twist guns. (1:28 or 1:36)

Keep at it and learn you gun. Also keep in mind just because you can shoot it accurately doesn't mean you will hit what you are aiming at. When the powder gets a little damp and fires late, no dead critter.

I am sure there is lots of other good advice out there, so lets here it.

Here are a few of the conicals I have tried. (BTW I would only recommend solid points for ballastic reasons with blackpowder)
1. T/C Maxi hunter - didn't do well in my gun.
2. T/C Maxi ball - one on, one off, that's how it went.
3. Hornady Great Plains - does alright but a little inconsistent. My dad shoots these exclusively in his .50 cal and he can outshoot me at 100 yards when I am shooting a .270. ( you gotta love dad's.)
4. Buffalo Ball-ets - not a conical, not a round ball. I haven't tried these yet, but this is my hope for this year.
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Old 06-07-2002, 12:31 PM   #2
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Default Re: More on black powder...

Great info it's hard to find someone else that plays with tiers as much as I did.save your money on the ball-ets they don't shoot naer as flat as the round balls. the maxi's I shoot are cast with a 380 gr. lee R.E.A.L mold these bullets engage the rifling at loading.and they really do a number on the elk.I thumped one behind the shoulder at 125yds it staggered down the hill to 165yds so I decided to shoot it again .it was quarted away .the second bullet entered behind the last rib and exited through the front shoulder.The vel. at the muzzle aws 1485fps on a cronograph with 110grs of pyrodex and a rem. #11 cap Tim
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Old 06-07-2002, 01:12 PM   #3
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Default Re: More on black powder...

Timber what is the twist in your rifle? Make/Model/Cal.?

I am shooting a Cabela's "Sporsterized" Hawken (no brass with a recoil pad and sling swivels) in .54 Cal. It has a 1:48" twist.
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Old 06-07-2002, 03:13 PM   #4
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Default Re: More on black powder...

My hawken is the same gun you have but the gun I hunt with is a remington the twist is 1/28. the hawken will shoot those bullets pretty well to.but I haven't cronographed it
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Old 06-08-2002, 12:36 PM   #5
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Default Re: More on black powder...

The remington is in compliance with O.D.F.W regs. this combo has plenty of down range energy for a clean 200yd shot but I wouldn't reccomend it to anybody because of sighting limitations. lured in if you would be interested in triing them I will send you some. let me know. Tim

[ 06-09-2002, 06:00 AM: Message edited by: Timber ]
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Old 06-08-2002, 11:08 PM   #6
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Default Re: More on black powder...

No matter what you use, understand the limitations of the muzzleloader and no matter what the company says a 200 yard killing shot is not realistic and make sure the gun complies with ODF regs. You have to have an open ignition and none of the sealed zip guns.
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Old 06-10-2002, 08:01 AM   #7
Lured In
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Default Re: More on black powder...

Timber do I understand you correctly that you are hand casting your own conical? If so, COOL!

I am not surprised that you use your Remington as you go to for hunting, especially elk. I have had the pleasure of shooting serveral blackpowder rifles and those with tight twist always shoot conicals better.

I just haven't found a combo that produces the consisten groups (less than 6" at 100 yards) that I want. I can do this with round ball, but cannot make it happen with concicals. Like I said above, the Hawken was the first gun to shoot both round ball and conicals, and it does both only moderately. My preference would be to have one for deer (1:68") for roundball and one for elk (1:36" or better) for conicals on elk.

I am not sure if it just the .54 cal or what, but my dad's .50 cal Hawken does a great job with conicals. It may be some wierd mass-diameter issue.

The other thing is that you are shooting pyrodex and I believe (i'll have to check) that Cabelas says no blackpowder substitutes. Pyrodex burns a little slower (not to mention much cleaner) that BP. This is probably giving you the greater velocity that you are seeing.

Did you try the Ball-ets in your Hawken? If so were the results any better than you stated above?
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Old 06-10-2002, 01:28 PM   #8
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Default Re: More on black powder...

My manual said or black powder subs.I believe . The ball-ets were shot out of the hawken.My maxi's shot 4,5 inches at a hundred yards. I think the reason they shoot so well in the slower twist guns than something like the buffalo's is the fact that when you load them the 4 rings around the bullet are staggered from the bottom to the top.the rings go from slightly larger than land diameter at the bottom to groove dia. at the top. the rifling cuts through them when you load vs. swelling under ignition like most others .that way they don't slide up the barrel before engaging.also the shorter the projectile the less rotational spin is needed to stabilize it. Tim

[ 06-10-2002, 03:53 PM: Message edited by: Timber ]
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