Boat re-wire half done (pics)

[Reel Knotty]

Well, with two young children, a wife back in college, and a 9 month old lab running around it sure is hard to get enough time in to fix the #@$! boat. Anyway, got the boat re-wire 1/2 way done (front done, will leave transom mess for now so I can go fishing )

Here are the buss bars I started with...

The idea was individual fuses and switches on the dash. Pulled the steering wheel and put down masking tape to do the layout....and didn't like it. Soooooooo

I changed my mind when I saw this blue seas fuse block...


Here is the fuse block all buttoned up


Had a heck of a time with layout on the dash, but finally came up with this...



Playing with the electronics, the only problem with the compass is when transmitting with VHF. There was a great deal involved with this project that does not show on the pictures (switching VHF and CB antennea, lots of clean-up, dissasembling what seemed like half the boat to get to the wires...sigh).

I picked up some lilith charcoal paint to fix the 'extra' holes in the dash (I didn't drill them, I swear!)...anyway will either; one, mix paint with some JB Weld to fill holes, or two, get out the TIG (sigh...I know this is the 'right' way...but a lot more work for a few small holes...)

Anyway, the mess in the transom is next...after some fishing

[spooner]

nice work

[yankemnbankem]

Nice work! Where did you find the Blue Seas Fuse panel? I want one.

[Reel Knotty]

I picked up a blue seas fuse block @ West Marine. Blue seas also has nice 'Wet deck' panels available (but they are $$$). I may be putting one of these in the transom area for control of feed to front, downriggers, and TR-1

[tomictime]

blue seas also make some nice plastic buss covers ....your + and - are close to each other..covers may prevent a poke....(some pay extra for that)

Jim

[Reel Knotty]

I have seen the covers, and would have bought them if I had stayed with the plain buss bars. The Blue Seas fuse panel I changed to has a cover with it, so no worries :smile: Also it uses ATC blade style fuses, which I prefer, so was win, win....now to get rid of the plain buss bars....

[1pump]

It's tough to find marine fuse blocks for ATC fuses. I can't figure out why anyone would want the old glass ones. They're a pain.

[walkersteelhead]

Nice work. I read in my lowrance book it said to tap directly off the battery so it won't pick up interference. Have you noticed any problems tapping off the fuseblock instead.

[Reel Knotty]

It seems all the electronic items on a boat are suppose to be tapped directly of the battery...sigh.

I have not had this new fish finder in the water yet. However, my last one was an Eagle (by lowrance) and did not have any problems not going directly to the battery (and it was tapped off another circuit). I think they say that so you won't just tap off power that was tapped off power that was tapped off power...

Electrically, there should be no difference since the power is brought to the fuse block, then branched from there. The 'noise' will only happen if the wire supplying power is not big enough to handle the load and/or the ground is insufficient.

[Fish mojo]

I had some problems with my new Lowrance 332C FF when it was run off the fuse block (non-switched). It would work fine until the main motor (inboard) had to start. I would momentarily lose the signal as the starter cranked, then the GPS would have to re-aquire the satellites. Moved the power back to the battery and now it is ok.

[SPRINGERMAN]

Did you have a battery isolator switch in that set up? Mine has a hot lead from battery to post on swith that feeds the motor and another to the fuse panel to supply power too, this is uninterupted on start of the motor.