Your most important bowhunting learning experience was?

Fish Hunter · 08-22-2001, 10:10 AM

As a first year bow hunter, I would love to hear your best tip. I've been doing the reading, shooting the bow, you know doing my homework. Was there anything that caught you by surprise or found yourself unprepared for when you started? I'm doing ok as a rifle hunter, but really want to master this.
Thanks.

Dogfish · 08-22-2001, 10:49 AM

I have yet to use a bow on elk, as I don't personally feel that I can master the bow for my comfort level. I have taken a number of elk, all with muzzle loaders.

One thing that has concerned me is that I have taken one elk that had an arrow stuck in it, just below the spine and behind the rib cage. The elk was doing just fine, until it got hit with a 425 grain maxi ball.
Same trip, my partner got another cow, same thing, different placement, but still high.

Both elk had wounds that had started to heal, but the arrows or most of the arrows, were still in the animal. They are pretty tough animals, so if you don't get them in a lung or the heart, they are gone.

My suggestion would be to practice your range estimation, and also make sure that you learn where the vitals are on the elk and practice shooting at a lifesized target.

Also, don't try for any of those "hail Mary" shots, keep them close. My friend shot a raghorn with a rifle about 4 years ago, and when we were skinning and splitting it, we came across a big puss pocket, YUCK!!! Inside it was a flattened maxi-ball, and part of a broad-head. Don't shoot farther than you absolutely know that you can kill the animal from.

I have no issue with bow hunting, just choose not to do it myself. All of my elk have been taken at less than 30 yards, just with a muzzleloader.

Andy

Bait O' Eggs · 08-22-2001, 12:46 PM

When your knees are knocking with buck fever dont try to shoot. [img]images/icons/rolleyes.gif[/img]

Actually, it will surprise you how much adrenaline you get pumping when an elk is only a few feet away from you. Last year I was less than 10 yards from 2 spikes and about 30 yards to a third spike and several cows mixed in between. I had a buddy who had never bow hunted tagging along with me. He was looking over my shoulder and I swear I could hear heart beating behind me. When I drew waiting for a clean shot on one of the bulls, several heads turned my way. The arrow sliding on the rest made enough noise to give my position away. I held my 85 pound draw (65% let off) for almost 2 minutes when the shakes set in. Not from buck fever, but from exhaustion. Nothings going to fly straight at this point.... and you cannot let the arrow down without making a bunch of movement. It was all over before I knew it. When they all ran, my buddy said "I gotta go clean my shorts out, that was the most excitement I have ever experienced hunting". This guy has hunted a lot, but always at long range throwing lead.

Norm · 08-22-2001, 01:24 PM

I've been bowhunting for about ten years on the coast and have killed a half dozen or so elk. dogfish is right on about high chest shots, shoot low in the chest. The only elk I ever wounded and lost was a high chest shot. Don't ever shoot more bow than you feel comfortable with. I have killed lots of elk with my old 70 LB wheel bow. None of my kills would have been any less dead with a 60 LB bow ( my first bull was killed with a 55LB bear whitetail). The idea is to stick the broadhead in the chest and have it stay in the lung cavity. It will chew up tissue as they move, a pass through shot is not what you want for a quick kill. Save the macho cam 100 LB speed bow for the target range unless your built like Arnold. Remeber to "pick a spot before you shoot", it's harder than you think. Learn to cow call, stay away from the bugle. You will just call in novice hunters and scare away most decent bulls. It took me years to learn when, were, and how to bugle and I rarley do. Have fun, it's a sport.

local_hooker · 08-22-2001, 08:51 PM

all the info above is excellent, especially knowing your yardage. If your bow is not blazing fast, there can be a BIG elevation difference between 20 and 30 yrds.

BOE is right on about the amount of time you sometimes spend at full draw, it can be a killer. Shooting alot will strengthen your shoulder, but I like to do bent rows with a dumbell also.

My tip: Take care of your equiptment!

About 15 years ago I was drawing back on a muley at 25 yrd. When my plastic adhesive type arrow rest fell right off the riser. Next thing I know I am at full draw with the arrow laying across my fore arm, and no rest in sight.

I don't think they even make those rests anymore, but all equiptment should be well maintained and tuned.

Good luck! I started shooting at 8, and hunting at 12.... I'm a lifer.

Sean

smilesforu · 08-22-2001, 09:10 PM

lets see....had lots of close chances I have blown creating new ways to spook or have achery equipment fail.
I have had elk bolt from a sqeeky arrow rest 6x6, Had The knock fall off the arrow at full draw on a 5x7, Get the can't hold the bow shakes any longer..please step out from behind the tree same 5x7, whoops didn't see that limb (cow), What do you mean that was a 40 yd shot broadside 7x7?...as the arrow flies over with the 50 yard pin. Goofing around with the bugle and have a 5x5 walk onto the pavement to check me out. Being so close to the elk that when it bugles, you have no idea where it is at....just close and scary

Knowing your distances is probably the hardest part of elk hunting with a bow. Learning to shoot uphill or down hill... Then comes scent/noise control so you won't get winded/heard before the shot. A good lung shot will drop a elk fast.. as little as 20 yards

I also recommend being in great shape, if you get one of these horses down even the best conditioned people are exhausted.

Gobbaworms · 08-22-2001, 09:37 PM

I think everyone has made it clear...practice, practice, practice. If you don't want to use arrows stump shooting (notice I didn't say waste because its not), at least pick a target, guess the yardage and pace it off. Do this often. When I first started out, I undershot alot.
Also pick a small target on the animal. You wouldn't believe how many novice bow hunters I've talked to that aim "center mass". As the old saying goes "aim small, miss small".
Lastly know how to tune your bow. There's a lot of energy flowing through that bow every time you fire. You need to know how to put it back together when things rattle loose.
Also alot of hunters I know say their broadheads hit differently than their target points. This shouldn't be. If their bows were tuned properly, both should hit the same spot. It usually has to do with how their rest is adjusted.
If you can shoot a consistant group at 40 yards and guess yardage +/-2 yards within 40 yards, you will be a very succesful bow hunter.

Starr · 08-22-2001, 09:48 PM

I used to think the most important thing about bowhunting was just practice, until I started shooting at deer and elk, and found them ALOT harder to hit than targets. It's the excitement factor that is left out in target practice that leaves you shooting alot of trees and rocks while hunting. Try to put yourself in "real" situations that get the adrenaline pumping. Shooting at the same 'ol bale of hay, just doesn't cut it. Get comfortable shooting at targets, then go on a trail shoot, and see the difference that it makes. The competition gets the adrenaline going, and is the closest thing to the "real" thing I know.

Hoosier Daddy · 08-22-2001, 11:09 PM

Don't EVER try to shoot from farther than 20-25 yards, if the animal is dead still. I'm not a real successful hunter, mostly because I'm too damned picky about where and when to shoot. I just like taking my bows for walks. If you aren't afraid the animal is going to step on you, get closer! And when you think you are pretty good with the bow, get better. Make sure you are practicing from a variety of distances. Best way is to stump shoot. Walk around sticking arrows in stumps, clumps of grass, whatever. Even better if you can bring yourself to sacrifice a few broadheads (identical to what you hunt with) to do this with. Screws up blades, but there is no better way to practice. If you can't bring yourself to do this, at least practice shooting at your target bale from various distances, angles, and positions (kneeling, standing, hiding behind tree. Really good if you can put your target in odd locations, shoot from and around brush. All this gives you the best possible scenario for getting used to sighting, etc., as well as making you comfortable. One shot from any position after you start getting comfortable. This keeps the pressure on you to hit cold. Ideally, you should get to a point where you can come home from work, pick up your bow, walk into a field, and stick a stump or whatever, dead-center on the first shot, no warm-ups or anything. Unless you plan on shooting warmups in camp every day.....

Pretty rigorous, and even when I was really into it, I didn't really go this far, but I think it would be the best practice you could get. Shoot every day,etc.

bigshark · 08-22-2001, 11:33 PM

FishHunter: I hunted the coast in many years
but still can hunt the east o.k. Your body condition is important. The prior fella have cover most of the key tips. Picking a "spot" on the animal is crucial. Up-hill Down-hill practice can't be overstated. Invest in a few cedar-bails to shoot into. Well before the season switch to broadheads. If your going to make an error on your shot..miss LOW. Frontal shots are for bad guys as well as rear-ends..Use heavy arrows on elk. Big broadheads have worked best for me..I like to sharpen my own. Heavy poundage bows shoot flatter than lighter poundage..but don't overbow yourself...in just 5 or 10 years you will have a closet full of them as you body
and skill level elevates....Nothing on this earth can be as fun as your bowhunting. Then
its exciting to teach it to your kids. Both of mine truly love it and it is still a family outing now that they are both grown men......Stay with it, you will learn much on your own.

jberry · 08-22-2001, 11:56 PM

One thing I like to practice is drawing my bow and holding as long as I can. It's something that can be done sitting in the living room. Just try once or twice a day. Time yourself to see how much you can improve. It's amazing how those animals know what tree to stop behind.

I would also suggest practicing at further distances. Shooting consistant groups at 40 and 50 yards will make shooting at 20 and 30 yards seem like a piece of cake.

Fish Hunter · 08-23-2001, 08:21 AM

All great suggestions. Thanks for your input.
These hard learned lessons are the ones you never forget. I'll be drawing on the tv at night. Will be trying out the broadheads starting tonight. I got some great instruction from Archers Afield where I bought my bow. The shots are getting consistant. The range estimation will be a problem area, I plan to carry my rangefinder to practice with to get the estimation down better. Not sure if I'll end up carrying my full size binocs with all this junk or not. What do you do? Love the binocs when rifle hunting.

Osprey · 08-23-2001, 02:11 PM

great topics guys,I also recomend the Binocs,I use a set Of pentax 10X40 very small and sweet,you'd be surpized how many times I've grown horns from tree-limbs.

something else I do is tune my arrows,I prefer to line up the fletches with the broad head,for my Bow it makes a big difference,I shoot Thunder 125's for most of my animals,but I've also had great success with Muzzy's also.....tight groups......Os

Hoosier Daddy · 08-23-2001, 11:32 PM

Binocs- take em if you can carry em. "Is that a leaf or an ear?". Even at close range they are great to have. I have some little 8X35's I use. Cheapos. Terrible for glassing clearcuts, etc., but they are light, small, and work just fine in the thickets. Nice to be able to glass the area ahead of you before you start tromping, especially when bow season in Oregon is usually so hot and dry. I'd like to try some of those Binoc Buddy holders to see if they help keep your glasses handy, seems like a good idea.
That's another thing. Not sure where you are hunting, but the dryness can be a pain. In most of the areas in Oregon I've hunted (West, East, in between) August-September is pretty much like walking on potato chips when you step into the woods. Try to be as quiet as possible. Rainy days are a blessing if you can stay on the wet stuff it helps you stay quiet. If you need to be quiet you can sometimes sweep the ground in front of you with a toe to clear the crackly's out of the way, but it's tough. Rain is your friend!!

MetalHead · 08-24-2001, 09:41 AM

Best tips for Archery Hunting
1. Know your limitations (yardage)
2. Practice, Practice, Practice. Shoot standing, kneeling, sitting - also shooting around bushes, by tree's ect...
3. Maintain your equipment.
4. Always work on your yardage estimation skills.
5. Do not take questionable shots, respect your quarry.
6. Practice some more
7. Pick your spot on the animal, shoot at an individual hair.
8. Scent Control - try to avoid using estrus scent on your person. (your hunting partners will appreciate it and you will be less attractive to cougars)
9. Learn to call
10. Always aim low on the animal (a clean miss is better than a high stick)