HELP!!! Fishfinder Installation

[Rip'N'Lips]

All-

I bought a Lowrance X-91 the other day, and am now in the process of mounting. There are 2 issues that have come up.

1) The drain holes in my transom are too small for the transducer cord to go through.

2) The bottom of my transom has a flange that sticks out far enough that I can't mount my transducer to the transom. I have to build a block that will act as an "L" bracket to mount to.

So, should I run the cord over my transom, which is only about 3-4 inches taller than my drain holes?

Also, what could I build an "L" bracket out of? I would like to find some of the stuff that cutting boards are made out of to mount directly to the flange...

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I attached a picture to make it easier to understand.



Also, if anyone does this installation on the side and has some free time, let me know. I really don't want to screw it up.

Thanks all!!!

Rip'N'Lips

[norms gone fishing too]

bass pro sells the mounting bracket you are looking as does cabales i don't know about local sales you might try boaters world or fmw i had to get one for my boat

Find some UHMW plastic and make the spacer out of that. I run my transducer cables over the transom but I have a "Rat" boat. It would look better and keep the cables from wearing if you put then through a hole with some kind of cover or strain relief fitting.

[jetsled1]

I ass-u-me that your boat is aluminum, if so then any good welding shop can weld a tab on the flange to mount your transducer to. here is what I have done to my boat. If you need E-Mail me direct as my shop could weld the tabs on for you for a minimum charge.
http://www.ifish.net/uploads/595119363.jpg
http://www.ifish.net/uploads/145419363.jpg

[boater]

go to any fabrication shop close by and have them bend you up a piece of .125 aluminum, have them bend 1 leg 1 inch long and the other 4 inches long and make it about 4 inches wide, tell them you want a 90 degree bend, if that is to much you can always "unbend" it alittle with a hammer, drill 2 1/4" holes about a 1/2" in from each end of the bracket, place it on the boat where you want it and mark thru the holes onto the boat with a felt pen, then drill 2 1/4" holes in the overhanging flange on the boat and bolt it on with some stainless 1/4" bolts then mount your transducer to it.

[Lilcorky]

I did the same as Boater but I used tapered head 1/4 inch
screws and but them in from the bottom ( nut and lock
washer on top). Counter sank the screws flush with the
tab so they wouldn't change the water flow out the back
of boat or make little rooster Tails.

[ 12-30-2002, 09:02 PM: Message edited by: Lilcorky ]

[1pump]

I'm like Keta, I have a "rat" boat too. The hassle with my transducer cable is that the sealed plug on the head end is a lot bigger than the cable, necessitating drilling a 5/8" hole for a 3/16" cable to pass through. I could probably cut it off and re-solder it, but it's a portable anyway, and not worth the effort.

If your drain holes are in a motor well, I'd just enlarge them and use a thru-hull fitting to keep the cable from chafing on the edge of the hole. (and to make it pretty) Water runs in and out of motor wells anyway, so it's no biggie.

[Wright Angle]

Protect the integrity of your hull, have a tab welded to the flange that you can drill holes in and mount stuff on with out drilling holes in the hull.

I don't have a picture on hand of the right side tab on my boat showing my transducer, here is a picture of the left one with a zinc.

[RSERVAT]

Here is thought the is being tried on some jet boats in the lewiston/clarkston valley . The transducer bottom is coated with silcone and stuck to the bottom of the boat inside. You have to make sure no air pockets form when you stick it to the bottom. I can give a name and number out of a guy that is setting the fishfinders up like this .

[chummer]

RESERVAT, This method is known as shooting through the hull, I believe it can only be done on wood and fiberglass hulls, not aluminum.